Rebuilding Weber 32/36 DGAV 33A Carburators

Dan Wood

Dan Wood

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I will be rebuilding my carbs. The front secondary has stuck at WOT several times and they don't appear to have been well maintained. While I have rebuilt several carbs before, I was willing to have a company rebuild them except that the $300 each seemed excessive. I have ordered repair kits including the power valve and new Carb Chem Dip.
Are there any special concerns to be aware of or "tips" when rebuilding these carbs?
 
Try to avoid the chinese rebuilt kits, stick with big name weber suppliers like redline. If you were generally happy with how they were set up then you're looking at a pretty simple rebuild as long as you reassemble the same way it came apart.

There are threads here that advise how to eliminate the chance of linkage over rotation, i'd read through those to avoid your WOT problem.
 
Thomas76 said:
Try to avoid the chinese rebuilt kits, stick with big name weber suppliers like redline. If you were generally happy with how they were set up then you're looking at a pretty simple rebuild as long as you reassemble the same way it came apart.

There are threads here that advise how to eliminate the chance of linkage over rotation, i'd read through those to avoid your WOT problem.
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Thanks for the response, I am aware of the previous posts on the over rotation and suspected that was the issue until I witnessed the front secondary sticking open. The carbs do appear to be relatively simple.
 
Have you considered the new electric carburators?
 

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One of the DGAV32/36 Webers is apart and cleaned while leaving the second one assembled. The parts will be in this week and when the first one is assembled, I will attack the second one. I have fixed the sticking secondary throttle shaft. I will be using the Pegasus throttle shaft bearings for the primary shaft bearings.

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=5949
(as recommended by @Mike Goble)

DGAV3236.jpg
 
Dan Wood said:
I will be rebuilding my carbs. The front secondary has stuck at WOT several times and they don't appear to have been well maintained. While I have rebuilt several carbs before, I was willing to have a company rebuild them except that the $300 each seemed excessive. I have ordered repair kits including the power valve and new Carb Chem Dip.
Are there any special concerns to be aware of or "tips" when rebuilding these carbs?
Click to expand...
I have 32/36 DVAV33A weber carbs on my E9 as well. Are your idle valves being replaced as well? The reason I ask is one of my idle valves (solenoids) on one carb has broken off the metal tip that connects it. So my car will not idle (runs great other than that). I am looking for another idle valve. If you know where I can get one or have one for sale that would be great (I've attached a photo of the idle valve I need to replace). Thanks and hope all goes well with your rebuild...E
 

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ECA90049 said:
I have 32/36 DVAV33A weber carbs on my E9 as well. Are your idle valves being replaced as well? The reason I ask is one of my idle valves (solenoids) on one carb has broken off the metal tip that connects it. So my car will not idle (runs great other than that). I am looking for another idle valve. If you know where I can get one or have one for sale that would be great (I've attached a photo of the idle valve I need to replace). Thanks and hope all goes well with your rebuild...E
Click to expand...
I saw your previous post and the pic you posted is different from what I have on my Webers.
This is one I ran across while searching for parts and looks similar to what I have.
www.carburetion.com

43928.060 - Idle solenoid dgv series

43928.060 - 43928.060 idle solenoid dgv Fits Weber
www.carburetion.com
 
ECA90049 said:
I have 32/36 DVAV33A weber carbs on my E9 as well. Are your idle valves being replaced as well? The reason I ask is one of my idle valves (solenoids) on one carb has broken off the metal tip that connects it. So my car will not idle (runs great other than that). I am looking for another idle valve. If you know where I can get one or have one for sale that would be great (I've attached a photo of the idle valve I need to replace). Thanks and hope all goes well with your rebuild...E
Click to expand...
Looking again at your solenoid I am trying to understand how it is held in. Does it unscrew at the silver washer from the long tube?
 
Dan Wood said:
I saw your previous post and the pic you posted is different from what I have on my Webers.
This is one I ran across while searching for parts and looks similar to what I have.
www.carburetion.com

43928.060 - Idle solenoid dgv series

43928.060 - 43928.060 idle solenoid dgv Fits Weber
www.carburetion.com
Click to expand...
Don't know about this, but would that work for my
Dan Wood said:
Looking again at your solenoid I am trying to understand how it is held in. Does it unscrew at the silver washer from the long tube?
Click to expand...
The end with threads screws into the carb. That's all that holds it in. But at the end that handles the wrench, there is a metal piece with a hole in it that the solenoid goes through that gives some support. Maybe you can see it in photos...red wire goes to solenoid
 

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ECA90049 said:
Don't know about this, but would that work for my

The end with threads screws into the carb. That's all that holds it in. But at the end that handles the wrench, there is a metal piece with a hole in it that the solenoid goes through that gives some support. Maybe you can see it in photos...red wire goes to solenoid
Click to expand...
OK, I see the threads way down at the end. Not sure why it would be that long. On the shorter ones on my Webers the brass end piece will pull out. I wonder if the long piece will unscrew from the solenoid at the silver washer. Also, on the ones I have the brass plunger will pull out from the solenoid. My serial numbers are 15607 and 15679. The stamped numbers look different from yours.
Carb Front.jpgCarb Aft.jpg
 
I would just spend the $30 to buy a new solenoid and try it. They are short and do not need a support plate like in your photos. Normally the short solenoids are not accessible when the air cleaners on, so maybe Weber made these long ones so you could test for cutoff with the air cleaner on.

John
 
JFENG said:
I would just spend the $30 to buy a new solenoid and try it. They are short and do not need a support plate like in your photos. Normally the short solenoids are not accessible when the air cleaners on, so maybe Weber made these long ones so you could test for cutoff with the air cleaner on.

JohnI $30 for a solenoid that may or may not work, or $2000 for new carbs. It's worth a shot. Will order one today and let you know how it goes. The fact that you have pretty much the same carb gives me hope. Do you think the solenoids need to both be same? Should I order two and replace both?
Click to expand...
 
FWIW, I spoke with a Weber expert at Worldpac yesterday and he did not recognize the picture of the long idle solenoid valve on the @ECA90049 carb. He suspected it isn't a genuine Weber carb. Edit: However I do have a Weber from a 2002 that was made in Italy with the 3rd mounting point for the water thermostat that has the smaller hole for an electric idle valve for that carb. I do not have an electric valve.
On top of the carb should be a Weber emblem with either Made in Italy or Made in Spain. Weber manufacturing moved from italy to Spain around 1992.
 
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I ordered another, shorter solenoid I found online for the 32/36 carb (can't find the long one anywhere) but it has a larger thread so won't fit. I've looked all over the USA, Australia, England and Italy and been told consistently that the carb I have has not been made in decades and nobody can help. In fact, you can't even find it on the historic parts list for Weber. I give up. After the first of the year, I think I will just pop for new carbs. Any recommendations?
 

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Got the new solenoid, but the treads are larger. At this point, it looks like new carbs are in my future...
 
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