When I reseal my calipers I will bead blast the exterior, but I would also like them to appear like the ones in the original sales brochures with that Gold finish. Is there a durable coating available that has that look, or is that just plating? I have seen Gold caliper paint made by G2 (And Folia Tec ...hard to find locally), but it appears to be a flatter Gold similar to the colour they put on Brembo calipers.
Refinishing Calipers (paint?)
- Thread starter Nicad
- Start date
Home Depot sells a Hammered Gold that looks very nice and I have had no issues with durability, no high temp paint is needed. It is not too bright, looks correct. Use their Hammered Silver for wiper linkages, another great match.
Chris
Chris
Nice attention to detail Sven. There is a shot in this BAvaria Brochure of the proper original colour. I expect it is close to Chris's Hammerite finish.
http://car-cm.jp/brochure/bmw/e3_1976_en.html
On another note, it would appear that there is a Silver paint on the Valve cover of the Bavaria in this brochure. Is this correct as well? On some aluminum parts that I will refinish I am tempted to try something like Eastwood's Alumablast paint so the appearance has some longevity. Anyone have any opinions on this product?
http://car-cm.jp/brochure/bmw/e3_1976_en.html
On another note, it would appear that there is a Silver paint on the Valve cover of the Bavaria in this brochure. Is this correct as well? On some aluminum parts that I will refinish I am tempted to try something like Eastwood's Alumablast paint so the appearance has some longevity. Anyone have any opinions on this product?
Official Brake color
For all Motorsport cars is a kinda smurf blue.
Just read this in the new Roundel
For all Motorsport cars is a kinda smurf blue.
Just read this in the new Roundel
New M's will be blue, yuck. The hammered gold is very close. I cleaned them with a wire brush and wiped them down with a prep solvent, then masked and shot the paint. It has been over a year and no color change and with no leaks, no brake fluid worries.
Bob, I used Alumablast on side of head, intakes, thermostat housing and valve cover. It has been two years and they still look clean. It sprays on very easily, just like SEM's Trim Black.
Chris
Bob, I used Alumablast on side of head, intakes, thermostat housing and valve cover. It has been two years and they still look clean. It sprays on very easily, just like SEM's Trim Black.
Chris
blumax
(deceased)
Coatings for calipers and aluminum parts--
Wurth makes a gold paint that is factory correct--BLUMAX wears same on calipers.
My preference for all cast aluminum parts is a clean bead blasted surface with regular wipe down.
Valve cover is however done in nice powder coated wrinkle black with raised letters and ribs cleaned of the black coating.
Wurth makes a gold paint that is factory correct--BLUMAX wears same on calipers.
My preference for all cast aluminum parts is a clean bead blasted surface with regular wipe down.
Valve cover is however done in nice powder coated wrinkle black with raised letters and ribs cleaned of the black coating.
Simufly
Well-Known Member
calipers.
There is a firm in the UK "Eastwood" that does an excellent origanl Cadmium plated finsh. Ideal and very durable.
Just like they came from the factory.
There is a firm in the UK "Eastwood" that does an excellent origanl Cadmium plated finsh. Ideal and very durable.
Just like they came from the factory.
I don't think you want or need to do this - I remember reading they are difficult to get back together properly without proper tools. Just remove the caliper and mask off the bolts, nipples, front and then paint.
e9coupe
Active Member
E9erCS
Member
Are you sure temperature rated paint isn't needed?
I've had at least one restoration shop tell me not to use an unrated paint like Home Depot's. Does anyone know?
I've had at least one restoration shop tell me not to use an unrated paint like Home Depot's. Does anyone know?
E9erCS
Member
Wurth gold paint - NLA
Unfortunately its been discontinued and supposedly will not be reintroduced; all used on BBS allow wheels, so I am told by a paint dealer.
Unfortunately its been discontinued and supposedly will not be reintroduced; all used on BBS allow wheels, so I am told by a paint dealer.
I can see my gold unrated paint through the Alpinas and they look fine. Mesa Performance can send them out for rebuild for $92 each and they come back 'painted' gold.
Suggestion
VHT has a new line of engine paints that are advertised as ceramic and withstand temps to 900 degrees.:shock:
Yes, there is a gold. ( Cadillac IIRC).
Perhaps a light spray of silver first to lighten up the gold a bit.
VHT has a new line of engine paints that are advertised as ceramic and withstand temps to 900 degrees.:shock:
Yes, there is a gold. ( Cadillac IIRC).
Perhaps a light spray of silver first to lighten up the gold a bit.
+1. A silver base with a light dusting of the gold , with a little practice, will resemble cad plating.
Why not send them out for yellow "cad" (yellow zinc these days) plating? I'm sending mine, along with a bucketful of parts here: http://www.autopartsplating.com/ Although I have not yet sent my parts, I did speak with the owner at length and persuaded myself they know what they are doing, plus the samples of their work on the site is pretty impressive.
Caution
Certain plating types and high grade fasteners can degrade the hardness if the plater is unfamiliar with military grade plating specifications and standards for Europe and US.
Those type fasteners go through an additional hardening process after plating to restore it to original hardened specs.
So be careful, do your homework, and ask the plater. Be safe.
Certain plating types and high grade fasteners can degrade the hardness if the plater is unfamiliar with military grade plating specifications and standards for Europe and US.
Those type fasteners go through an additional hardening process after plating to restore it to original hardened specs.
So be careful, do your homework, and ask the plater. Be safe.
Thanks for the warning Jerry. I have looked at the hydrogen embrittlement phenomenon, and the science points to high tensile strength steels with tensile strength greater than 1,000 MPa as being affected if not properly heated following plating. As a reference 8.8 bolts are 800 MPa and 10.9 are 1,000.
So the practical implications of this, at least for me, are that I'll plate all non-critical bolts with 8.8 grading. Small clips and springs can easily crack after plating due to the embrittllement. So with a brake caliper, I'm not real concerned that it will crack following plating. Now, I'm no metallurgist, so I'll take any advice from the experts
So the practical implications of this, at least for me, are that I'll plate all non-critical bolts with 8.8 grading. Small clips and springs can easily crack after plating due to the embrittllement. So with a brake caliper, I'm not real concerned that it will crack following plating. Now, I'm no metallurgist, so I'll take any advice from the experts
Brittleness after plating can be renedied by heating in an oven at250-275 dgrees for about three hours according to a machinist friend.