It's a long story but I need to remove my crankshaft, but I don't want to pull the engine. The transmission and flywheel are already off. Am I able to drop the oil pan and remove the timing chain cover and get to the connecting rods and then remove the crankshaft? Thanks. Jeff
removal of crankshaft
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x_atlas0
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That would be an extremely tight fit, given the subframe. However, other than clearing the subframe, I can't think of any other reason why you wouldn't be able to.
MMercury
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Jeff said:
I have done this with another car, where a friend was after pistons in the donor car and access to the cylinder heads was next to impossible due to a rollover. I have also watched in amazement as someone installed new piston rings from the crankside of an engine (don't know how things turned out though). If you are just after the crank, I would say it is doable but hardly advisable if you intend to reinstall the crank in the same engine because of the weight factor, among others. Of course, people reinstall heavy transmissions from underneath the car too, but they typically use a hoist/stand/or lift and they are unencumbered by cross members.
Since you have gotten far enough along to have removed the other accessories, The only thing left to pull the block would be the two motor mounts. Although it may be lighter without the crank, it is still very heavy.
hth
Honolulu
Well-Known Member
yes and no
In view of the work involved, not to simply remove the block from the car seems like doing things the hard way.
Surely there are side benefits, like being able to clean the engine compartment and tidy things up, that would make up (more than make up) for the small increase in effort.
In view of the work involved, not to simply remove the block from the car seems like doing things the hard way.
Surely there are side benefits, like being able to clean the engine compartment and tidy things up, that would make up (more than make up) for the small increase in effort.
I'm a rookie at this. I thought I could get the oilpan off but it gets hung up on the oilpump. I'm going to have to get an engine hoist to raise the engine only a couple inches in order to have clearance. A good thing though - I found the front crank seal leaking. Any ideas on how to remove the oilpan without a hoist? Thanks. Jeff
steve in reno
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Jeff
You are making this harder than it needs to be. Why are you so reluctant to pull the motor?
I would have done it with the trans attached. Less work and better alignment for install.
Pull the motor and make what you are doing simpler, cleaner, with a better finished product.
Just my $.02
steve
You are making this harder than it needs to be. Why are you so reluctant to pull the motor?
I would have done it with the trans attached. Less work and better alignment for install.
Pull the motor and make what you are doing simpler, cleaner, with a better finished product.
Just my $.02
steve
The initial job was only to put in a 5 speed transmission and replace the pilot bearing. What was at the back of the engine was a small needle bearing (which I pulled) surrounded by a bushing which is the same OD as the new pilot bearing I want to insert. This was not original and was probably done in Germany(the car came to the States in1988). This bushing is so tight a bearing puller won't budge it. After numerous inquiries locally I tried to chisel it out and even drill it out. There's no choice but to remove it but I'm afraid I'll damage the surrounding metal. Thus I want to take the crank in to a machinist in order for him to machine it out. Thus the job keeps getting bigger. If I knew it would have come to this I would have pulled the engine long ago. I just returned this am with a hoist. Jeff
nashvillecat
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Re: unnecessary crankshaft removal
If you are intent upon lifting the engine without a hoist, you can jack the engine from one or both motor mount areas. You can also secure the engine by placing 2X4's lengthwise between the shock towers/fender aprons. 2X4' s under the motor mounts should also work in a pinch. But I really don't think any of this is necessary.
Suggestion: takes some pictures and post them here. There are several methods of pulling pilot bearings, the race and bushings I have never had a bearing that wouldn't eventually come out with the right bearing puller and, if necessary, a little localized heat (propane). If you do a little homework, you may find a description of using hydraulic pressure to remove the bearing - (grease). I have also seen a slide hammer (dent puller) used for this purpose too. Some of us may be curious as to exactly what type of bushing you are attempting to remove. Is it really the steel race onto which the bearings ride? Or is this some glorified spacer? Is it tapered?
I can understand why you do not want to bugger the crank, but if this is just a bushing that you will be replacing, the new bearing/bushing will not be affected by your chiseling, nor would I expect you could really irreparably damage the crank. (After you remove any burrs, the new bushing will likely conform to minor irregularities on the crank end.) By the time you are through, are you planning to replace the rear main seal too?
hth
Good luck.
Jeff said:
If you are intent upon lifting the engine without a hoist, you can jack the engine from one or both motor mount areas. You can also secure the engine by placing 2X4's lengthwise between the shock towers/fender aprons. 2X4' s under the motor mounts should also work in a pinch. But I really don't think any of this is necessary.
Suggestion: takes some pictures and post them here. There are several methods of pulling pilot bearings, the race and bushings I have never had a bearing that wouldn't eventually come out with the right bearing puller and, if necessary, a little localized heat (propane). If you do a little homework, you may find a description of using hydraulic pressure to remove the bearing - (grease). I have also seen a slide hammer (dent puller) used for this purpose too. Some of us may be curious as to exactly what type of bushing you are attempting to remove. Is it really the steel race onto which the bearings ride? Or is this some glorified spacer? Is it tapered?
I can understand why you do not want to bugger the crank, but if this is just a bushing that you will be replacing, the new bearing/bushing will not be affected by your chiseling, nor would I expect you could really irreparably damage the crank. (After you remove any burrs, the new bushing will likely conform to minor irregularities on the crank end.) By the time you are through, are you planning to replace the rear main seal too?
hth
Good luck.
x_atlas0
Well-Known Member
As an alternative I suppose you could drop the front subframe, like Malc did.
steve in reno
Well-Known Member
Jeff
Now, when you pull the motor, you won't have to reassemble it surrounded by crud and upside down.
Good call.
Bummer about the pilot bearing. But replacing it when apart is the ONLY way to go. The part is cheap and the labor is expensive.
Since you are removing the crank, the front and rear seal will be replaced.
Good luck and keep it clean.
steve
Now, when you pull the motor, you won't have to reassemble it surrounded by crud and upside down.
Good call.
Bummer about the pilot bearing. But replacing it when apart is the ONLY way to go. The part is cheap and the labor is expensive.
Since you are removing the crank, the front and rear seal will be replaced.
Good luck and keep it clean.
steve