A solder on a wire going into the back of the ignition on my 72 Csi just broke off. Not much fun in Melbourne traffic. Despite pulling off some contortions that would have won Nadia Comaneci a perfect ten, I can't see how the things comes apart. Anyone know how I get in there to perform some life-saving resoldering?
removing ignition
- Thread starter TRIPPFONTAINE
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Bill Riblett
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I can't answer your question directly, but you might want to think about replacing the whole electric switch part.
I have found that the contacts inside the switch get burned up over time. The first symptom is that the car will start when you turn the key, but as soon as you let the key return to the run position, it will quit. If you wiggle the key as it is returning to the run position, the car will keep running. Eventually, you won't be able to do even this.
I stumbled across this years ago. I think the switch in my second coupe is just starting to go. The switches were a lot less expensive 20 years ago...
I have found that the contacts inside the switch get burned up over time. The first symptom is that the car will start when you turn the key, but as soon as you let the key return to the run position, it will quit. If you wiggle the key as it is returning to the run position, the car will keep running. Eventually, you won't be able to do even this.
I stumbled across this years ago. I think the switch in my second coupe is just starting to go. The switches were a lot less expensive 20 years ago...
that's precisely what happened Bill. Because the problem became so pronounced I first thought something was draining power from my battery. After successfully jump starting the beast to life the problem seemed to go away (for a few weeks) until it returned with a vengeance in traffic.
The switch is definitely the problem. Tx
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The switch is definitely the problem. Tx
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Honolulu
Well-Known Member
Ignition switch removal
You should use the search function but here it is...
The switch is retained in the aluminum column casting by a tiny setscrew. The head of the setscrew is only a millimeter or 1-1/2 mm wide. It may be hidden under a dab of paint.
If you look at the switch end-on from the connector end (not the key end) the tiny setscrew is down at about five oclock.
Once you're done, put another dab of paint on the setscrew as a threadlocker.
You should use the search function but here it is...
The switch is retained in the aluminum column casting by a tiny setscrew. The head of the setscrew is only a millimeter or 1-1/2 mm wide. It may be hidden under a dab of paint.
If you look at the switch end-on from the connector end (not the key end) the tiny setscrew is down at about five oclock.
Once you're done, put another dab of paint on the setscrew as a threadlocker.