Removing/Installing engine leaving tranny in the car?

chicane

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I know it is preferable to remove both engine and trans but what about removing just the engine? How easy is it to get to the tranny mounting bolts and what would be the general procedure when leaving the tranny in the car?
 
Getting to some of the bellhousing bolts with it still being in the car will be tricky, at best. I have heard of being able to do it if you remove the cooling and AC systems radiative components, that way you can angle the engine/trans pair forewards a bit, giving better access to the bolts, but we are talking about an inch or two at most. In this setup, you also have to remove the trans mounts and disconnect it from the driveshaft. It has to pivot on the trans crossmember.

The most difficult part, I would think, given how the engine and trans are mated, is that you need about 3-4" of perfectly linear movement to get the trans input shaft out of the clutch/pilot bearing hole. There just isn't that much room in the bay to pull that kind of manoeuvre very easily.

Oh, and also, you would need to support the trans, or re-connect it to the driveshaft so it wouldn't fall out of the car while you are pulling this feat.

I know I was considering a similar path while doing my conversion/swap, as my garage height just wasn't enough to pull the combo out. I ended up just moving the car outside while I removed the drivetrain.
 
It´s possible, but we say in german : Warum mit der Kirche ums Kreuz gehen wenn man mit dem Kreuz um die Kirche gehen kann ?

Translation: Why with the curch around the cross when its easier to go with the cross around the curch? :confused:

My opinion: the easiest way to remove the engine with installed tranny is downward, relieving the complete frontaxle !
 
There are only so many! I think 3 17mm, 2 10mm for the flywheel plate, and two starter bolts. I just jacked the car up and used a wrench. The only thing different might be that this tranny is a 265/6. There really shouldnt be a problem what so ever. The hardest thing was the exhaust nuts.

-Rick
 
There are only so many! I think 3 17mm, 2 10mm for the flywheel plate, and two starter bolts. I just jacked the car up and used a wrench. The only thing different might be that this tranny is a 265/6. There really shouldnt be a problem what so ever. The hardest thing was the exhaust nuts.

-Rick


What the heck, I'll take the front clip off I needed to do it any way. Give me the skinny on removing the engine from the tranny. Thanks.
 
That's me in the pictures! We did have some difficulty getting the car up high enough to get everything out, but all in all it went pretty smoothly.

To me, the most unpleasant thing about removing and reinstalling the engine is getting the trans back on (assuming manual transmission). I've spent many unpleasant hours trying to wrestle the heavy trans to the exact position where the input shaft will slide into the clutch. I can't see how one would do this with the trans somehow hanging up there in the tunnel, attached to the driveshaft, etc.

Hopefully, no one sees removing the front clip as a realistic option (unless you are either junking that body or totally rebuilding it). Removing the front clip on these cars requires cutting off the front fenders, then grinding off welds and drilling out spotwelds to disconnect the nose panel from the inner fenders and frame rails.

If you ARE going to remove the front clip anyway, then this is definitely the easiest way to get the engine/trans out as you don't have to lift them as far.
 
Boy is this thread timely for me! I am getting ready to pull my trans and thought it could be removed from underneath? I guess it just not done that way? Removing the entire front end seems extreme though.

David
 
I dropped the front subframe/engine/transmission and if you have the space and jacks etc it is the way I would go without question. Just make sure of the support and method of securing the car against movement.
 
Hmmm

I put first a four speed, then a five speed trans, in my car which came with an auto trans. Both times I did it by myself alone, from underneath the car. I made a little jig of plywood to hold the trans a little more steady on the trolley jack, that helped some.

I would NOT try pulling the engine and trans as a unit. It works okay with a four cylinder 2002 (BTDT) but the six doesn't leave room fore and aft.

Separating the trans from the engine isn't all that difficult, it's just a hoop to jump through. Similarly, if you carefully align the clutch disc, getting the trans back on can be a one-man job. Patience is key. When you're almost there and just hanging on spline alignment, grab the trans output flange and spin a little one way or the other. This rotates the trans input shaft and lets it find its way into/through the clutch disc splines.

Inappropriate content not allowed at this point!
 
I need a the details of separating the engine from the trans while in the car. Please.
 
It is possible to remove the engine seperate from the transmission, but it's not easy. I've done it that way, but then I had always worked on american cars with big engine compartments. I think the next time I will try dropping the engine.

I do plan on pulling the tranny next and will probably seperate it from the engine first. Then drop the tranny by it self. Just like in Hawaii.
 
Access to the transmission to engine bolts is made easier by lowering the rear of the engine only. Obviously you will need to remove the exhaust and driveshaft.

Remove cooling fan. You will need some clearance to the radiator as the engine is tipped. Support the rear of the engine (oil pan) with a jack. Unbolt the transmission support bar from the body and loosen the main engine mounts. Then lower the rear end of the engine as far as the subframe and center steering linkage allow (pivoting on the main mounts). Check the front/radiator and firewall for any clearance issues. I have been able to drop it a few inches allowing for easy access over the top of the transmission. Lay on your back, hug the transmission, and use long rachet extension with a universal joint at the socket. Expect there to be at least one bolt that is hard to find. Do not forget to pull the starter.
 
As a bitter side story- a few years ago I helped install a m5 engine while the tranny was still in the car. While we were busy patting ourselves on the back for being so damn good- the owner looked down and spotted the throwout bearing sitting on the ground. Two hours of trying later we gave up and pulled the tranny.
 
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