My final restoration (as if there ever was an end) needs the trim around the body, drip caps on the roof, windshield and back window to have scratches buffed out. Probably window trims are a different material/finish than the other moldings. Has anybody "cleaned up" these trims and how was it done. Or does it have to be replaced? Thanks
removing scratches from exterior moldings
- Thread starter petert
- Start date
Bill Riblett
(deceased)
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Unfortunately, all the pieces you mention are aluminum with what I understand to be an anodized finish. Because they are aluminum and therefore bend easily, they are difficult to refinish.
I have experimented with some of the belt trim pieces, which are a little sturdier, by removing the anodizing and buffing. I plan to try this on a complete set, which I then plan to paint with urethane clear paint to keep them shiny. To my eye, this seems to result in a finish very close to the originals.
The windshield seal trim pieces are easy to bend and tough to straighten after bending. I've got several well-used ones to experiment on some day, but don't have high hopes.
I have experimented with some of the belt trim pieces, which are a little sturdier, by removing the anodizing and buffing. I plan to try this on a complete set, which I then plan to paint with urethane clear paint to keep them shiny. To my eye, this seems to result in a finish very close to the originals.
The windshield seal trim pieces are easy to bend and tough to straighten after bending. I've got several well-used ones to experiment on some day, but don't have high hopes.
trim redo
The gutter trim is relatively inexpensive, and was available as of about a year ago. Its really too flimsy to remove, strip, and polish without more patience that I have for polishing pasta.
The belt trim is much more substantial (solid) but not any fun to remove(I was told, as I didn't do it). I did strip the old anodizing, and then had them polished. It was recommended to me to POR 15, or other, the t-nuts (new ones) where they touch the aluminum, as the steel will react with the aluminum. I had to cut some of the old ones out with a Dremel tool that were locked intimately with the channel. I went through the debate of re-anodize, top coat, or carnuba wax. Since my car will be garaged, and will not see precipt (if I can help it), I went with the wax. I also did the backside before re-installing. That way, if they need any polishing down the road, I'll just mask them, Mothers aluminum polish, and re-wax.
Some of the window trim is chromed steel. Mine is tired, and I'm not sure,but doubt availability new. Anyone know? Its one of my final (no such word in coupe-dom) cosmetic to do's. I do some work in Thailand, and may try to take a few pieces over on my next trip, as I hear that they do some great re-chroming/and restoration work on cars from the UK. Gotta be cheaper than here as well. Film at eleven.
Dave V. in NC
The gutter trim is relatively inexpensive, and was available as of about a year ago. Its really too flimsy to remove, strip, and polish without more patience that I have for polishing pasta.
The belt trim is much more substantial (solid) but not any fun to remove(I was told, as I didn't do it). I did strip the old anodizing, and then had them polished. It was recommended to me to POR 15, or other, the t-nuts (new ones) where they touch the aluminum, as the steel will react with the aluminum. I had to cut some of the old ones out with a Dremel tool that were locked intimately with the channel. I went through the debate of re-anodize, top coat, or carnuba wax. Since my car will be garaged, and will not see precipt (if I can help it), I went with the wax. I also did the backside before re-installing. That way, if they need any polishing down the road, I'll just mask them, Mothers aluminum polish, and re-wax.
Some of the window trim is chromed steel. Mine is tired, and I'm not sure,but doubt availability new. Anyone know? Its one of my final (no such word in coupe-dom) cosmetic to do's. I do some work in Thailand, and may try to take a few pieces over on my next trip, as I hear that they do some great re-chroming/and restoration work on cars from the UK. Gotta be cheaper than here as well. Film at eleven.
Dave V. in NC
I had my beltline trim polished and powder coated clear. Cost was less than 1/3 of new trim parts, the results were good, not absolutely as good as new but certainly +90%.
If you don't mind giving the beltline the occasional once-over with aluminum polish, you could skip the powder coating. The rims of my wheels are polished with no topcoat, and I only have to polish them at the start of each summer. Takes about 5 minutes a wheel, using shop rags and Mother's wheel polish.
As others have stated, drip raill and window trim is thin anodized aluminum, there's not much you can do but replace it if it's badly scratched, as it is too thin to really tolerate the polishing process.
If you don't mind giving the beltline the occasional once-over with aluminum polish, you could skip the powder coating. The rims of my wheels are polished with no topcoat, and I only have to polish them at the start of each summer. Takes about 5 minutes a wheel, using shop rags and Mother's wheel polish.
As others have stated, drip raill and window trim is thin anodized aluminum, there's not much you can do but replace it if it's badly scratched, as it is too thin to really tolerate the polishing process.