Removing the trans

GTSilver944

GTSilver944

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Ok, so the manual for my '70 2800CS say that after disconnecting the gearbox from the bellhousing I should "support engine between front axle brackets. Slacken rubber bushes as gearbox. Detach cross-member." What exactly does "support engine between front axle brackets" mean?

Thanks,
Max
 
The problem is that the engine is supported by the motor mounts that are just in a line. To prevent the engine from tipping back, it depends on the transmission cross member, which gives the trans+engine combo more of a triangular mount support system. So, you are supposed to brace the engine so it doesn't fall back towards the firewall or the radiator. I just wedged some wood pieces inbetween the engine and radiator and the engine and the firewall. Seemed to work just fine.
 
Thanks. I'll try the wood trick or maybe a couple of jackstands on either end of the engine. Just wanted to make sure that I didn't need to fully support the engine with a hoist (I'm used to cars with the trans in the rear where there is no trans x-member). I'm very excited to finally be able to drive this car soon!
 
I did this job with my Dad and a scissor lift. That trans is heavy, so watch out. To get the nuts off the bellhousing so the trans could be removed, I used a set of metric S-wrenches; they made the job much easier, as those top nuts are in a very confined space, and a traditional wrench doesn't have very much travel. I would also suggest removing the top nuts first.
 
I just pulled my transmission this weekend, again. I used a floor lift with a block of wood at the rear of the oil pan (between the carrier and the steering linkage). With this in place you can remove the gear box support bracket. Then, to get access to the upper bell housing bolts just lower the jack so the back of the engine drops and you have easy access with a socket and a couple of long extensions. It will only drop as far as the center steering linkage. Feel up along the top with your hand, there are a couple of bolts that a hard to see. Of course, being Sunday evening you have probably are done the work.
 
One last question - I'm putting the trans back on and I have it to where its on the 4 bolts coming off the bellhousing. It has about an inch to go but it wont budge. I'm guessing that it's hitting up against the edge of the pilot bearing. Any tricks to get it in?

Thanks
 
Your right the trans input shaft is against the pilot bearing- don't use longer bolts to pull trans in or you'll ruin bearing. You need a clutch alignment tool to ensure clutch disc is centered to pilot bearing. They're inexpensive best one is actual trans input shaft.
Jef Rolison 71 3.0cs 2210088
 
I think you hit the clutch splines before the pilot bearing. My experiences have been that the input shaft either goes straight in or it takes many tries, lots of thrashing and all of the bad language you can come up with before it goes together.
 
GTSilver944:

You probably know this, but you should put the trans in 4th, and rotate its output shaft as you shove it into place to help the input shaft align with the splines in the clutch disk. Of course, an alignment tool has to be used if the clutch has been disassembled. Four strong people and a lot of bad language helps too.
 
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