Are the rubber insulating washers (next to the shim washers) included for electrical isolation or for oil sealing?
renew distributor original e9 1971
- Thread starter deQuincey
- Start date
pardon me ? i dont know if you mean the red washers ? if that is the case, those washers are not made of rubber, but cardboard, and in my opinion they can not be meant for any electric isolation as the balancing weigh is mechanically connectec to it´s axis. those washers are ther to compensate the heigh difference between the geometry of the balancing weigh.
if you were speaing about other washers try to indentify them in a picture
in this link you can find all the details of a previous distributor renewal, it is a step-by-step explanation
http://e9coupe.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7653
regards
Oil sealing or perhaps the best phrase is oil limiting since the shaft has grooves that pick up oil for the shaft bushing. It's actually fiber that soaks up oil. Sometimes red, sometimes grey, or black.
It also serves as a spacer too to set gear mesh along with the steel washer is sometimes waved on other Bosch dizzys.
In some venacular, it's also referred to as an isolation washer.
It also serves as a spacer too to set gear mesh along with the steel washer is sometimes waved on other Bosch dizzys.
In some venacular, it's also referred to as an isolation washer.
It's #2 in this picture. I ask because my dist. was leaking oil from within the housing and splattering it all over the inner fender. The leak was internal from the shaft, not the external o-ring seal. I installed what few washers came with the rebuild kit, but I doubt this will fix the issue.
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in my humble opinion that washer (fiber black or dark brown, washer) does nothing to stop the oil leaks or pass, because is rigid, and it is not pressurized by a nut or bolt thread,
it seems that you are having oil passing from the engine ( from the timing chain reservoir), up through the shaft, and inside the distributor, and then our through the distributor housing holes
this is strange, because if you take a look to the shaft you will see an elliptical channel (similar to a thread) but anti-clock wise, that tries to maintain engine oil down, with this construction there is no neeed of rubber washers
my advise is double check the assembly of all elements, and do not introduce more washers than stated by the specs, or for sure you will make other problem arise in another point
thats my feeling !
this sentence is giving me an idea:
It's actually fiber that soaks up oil.
maybe you miss the flat fiber pad (arranged in a cilinder way) that must be inside the case ?
hi
about: "since the shaft has grooves that pick up oil"
don´t you think that is exactly the contrary ?, take a look at the sense of the thread, and the rotation sense, and i am conluding that is made to force oil back to the engine !
am i wrong ?
I think we can refer to the grooves as an oil passage way.
My experience with the bushing is that they were once referred to as "Oiltite" bushing and had to be boiled or heated in oil. It's metalurgic makeup being so that it allowed it to hold oil.
As to slinging oil- if there is abnormal play, the procedure to fix it would be to fill the shaft, realign the gear with the proper play, washers, and redrill for the pin. It's very rare.
Or perhaps said another way, there are no limits to what a previous owner/ mechanic did that must be undone and corrected.
As to the advance weight fiber plate- it's main function is to allow the weights to slide freely. Yet be of a suitable durometer to withstand that action.
P.S. When oiling- the two drops under the rotor: it is best to use a synthetic; it tends not to gum up.
P.S. P.S. washers and mesh- look down the distributor opening and observe the wear pattern of the gear. Just as in setting up a ring and pinion, the gear mesh can be altered if need be. Thicker or thinner, but just the same number of washers.
My experience with the bushing is that they were once referred to as "Oiltite" bushing and had to be boiled or heated in oil. It's metalurgic makeup being so that it allowed it to hold oil.
As to slinging oil- if there is abnormal play, the procedure to fix it would be to fill the shaft, realign the gear with the proper play, washers, and redrill for the pin. It's very rare.
Or perhaps said another way, there are no limits to what a previous owner/ mechanic did that must be undone and corrected.
As to the advance weight fiber plate- it's main function is to allow the weights to slide freely. Yet be of a suitable durometer to withstand that action.
P.S. When oiling- the two drops under the rotor: it is best to use a synthetic; it tends not to gum up.
P.S. P.S. washers and mesh- look down the distributor opening and observe the wear pattern of the gear. Just as in setting up a ring and pinion, the gear mesh can be altered if need be. Thicker or thinner, but just the same number of washers.
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