repaint diecast model

Belgiumbarry

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i have this 1:18 CSL model for years..... now standing next my PC wondering if i can repaint it Verona ( as my car) ......doing some paint repairs on the coupe i got that crazy ? idea :D
It's white , nothing i have... would like to see it red..... just masking it will be a task with my big ,fat fingers...... :rolleyes:
on the other side, i searched , and never seen a coupe 1:18 diecast in Verona.... ???

PS winter is started, and as a retired old guy i can use some time killers ......

SAM_3651.JPG
 

bluecoupe30!

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I read somewhere that at current prices and wait times for a reputable restoration shop, a total E9 restoration takes 2 years and about $200K. So, at 1/18 scale, you should budget something like $11,111. If it is only paint, well, you probably have some flexibility, but watch out for "surprises"! Verona rocks, cannot wait to see the results! ;)
 

Stevehose

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I read somewhere that at current prices and wait times for a reputable restoration shop, a total E9 restoration takes 2 years and about $200K. So, at 1/18 scale, you should budget something like $11,111. If it is only paint, well, you probably have some flexibility, but watch out for "surprises"! Verona rocks, cannot wait to see the results! ;)
Right, if there is rust in the rockers then budget another $25
 

Belgiumbarry

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as i want a copy of "my" coupe , i demounted a few parts .

I want you guys give first chance to bid on those ultra rare CSL pieces.
As you can see : rear bumper, BAT spoiler , roof spoiler and wind splits.
Sorry for the little damages , due the rusty bolts.
Dimensions taken in consideration , i prefer local pickup.
Special price for the complete set !

SAM_3653.JPG
 

CSL177

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Looks like you'll be working with the AutoArt CSL, so disassembly is pretty easy... cleaning and detailing for paint is fussy, though. Take your time. ;)

Just a few friendly tips from a modeler regarding paint: be fastidious in preparing the surface, and use jewelers tools to define shut lines and other fine details. Chemical removal is straightforward, sand with #600 and #1000. Buy an airbrush and practice applying thin coats of modeling paint, do NOT use automotive products. Both primers and paints are just too thick. Practice on white gloss card stock, the amount of thinner, reducer and extenders used will vary depending on humidity and temperature. Achieving a fine finish on a model is just as tedious as the real thing... good luck, and let's see a build thread!
 

Pinstripe inc.

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i have this 1:18 CSL model for years..... now standing next my PC wondering if i can repaint it Verona ( as my car) ......doing some paint repairs on the coupe i got that crazy ? idea :D
It's white , nothing i have... would like to see it red..... just masking it will be a task with my big ,fat fingers...... :rolleyes:
on the other side, i searched , and never seen a coupe 1:18 diecast in Verona.... ???

PS winter is started, and as a retired old guy i can use some time killers ......

View attachment 131073
i have this 1:18 CSL model for years..... now standing next my PC wondering if i can repaint it Verona ( as my car) ......doing some paint repairs on the coupe i got that crazy ? idea :D
It's white , nothing i have... would like to see it red..... just masking it will be a task with my big ,fat fingers...... :rolleyes:
on the other side, i searched , and never seen a coupe 1:18 diecast in Verona.... ???

PS winter is started, and as a retired old guy i can use some time killers ......

View attachment 131073
This, also old retired guy, might be inspired to follow your lead. My model, done many years ago, was an irresistible toy to my boys. Guess it’s time for a bare metal restoration. :(
 

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Belgiumbarry

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Looks like you'll be working with the AutoArt CSL, so disassembly is pretty easy... cleaning and detailing for paint is fussy, though. Take your time. ;)

Just a few friendly tips from a modeler regarding paint: be fastidious in preparing the surface, and use jewelers tools to define shut lines and other fine details. Chemical removal is straightforward, sand with #600 and #1000. Buy an airbrush and practice applying thin coats of modeling paint, do NOT use automotive products. Both primers and paints are just too thick. Practice on white gloss card stock, the amount of thinner, reducer and extenders used will vary depending on humidity and temperature. Achieving a fine finish on a model is just as tedious as the real thing... good luck, and let's see a build thread!
dammit Russell , now you scared me to death......#600...1000# :oops:

it is a MINICHAMPS .... and yes, made in China. ( Paul's Model Art ) .... perhaps a #600 ,it doesn't deserve a #1000 ... and what's wrong with a rattle can ? :D
 

Belgiumbarry

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all winter ? i wanted to do it in one day , part time :D
Not perfect , but good enough to be among my models... at least it's now a copy of my coupe.

PS i prefer working on the 1:1 scale model

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