Replacing rear shocks/springs - counsel sought!

Gary Knox

Gary Knox

E9 Member Emeritus
Site Donor $$
Messages
1,821
Reaction score
746
Location
West Chester, Pennsylvania
I've started the process of replacing my rear shocks and springs. Not wanting to let the axle drop more than the specified 18 degrees, I am first replacing the shocks (well, the right one this afternoon). Now, in trying to compress the spring enough to get it out, I'm a bit 'stuck'. My compressors are the ones with a long bolt and a single "U" on one end and a double "U" on the other. I find I have to orient it so the bolt head is at the bottom of the spring, so I the long bolt will extend up into the wheel well. In this position it is very hard to access and turn the bolt head.

Seeking any counsel the e9 mechanical gurus can supply on the correct or most efficient procedure for replacing these two components. I have the blue books, which indicate they are for the e9, but the rear spring guidance in the books seems to be only for the e3. I also did a search on this website, and unfortunately did not find a previous procedure discussion. Must be here, I'm just a lousy detective!

Thank y0u for any guidance. And an especially Happy New Year to all.

Cheers,

Gary-
 
Gary,

I jack up the trailing arm, install the spring compressor and then lower the trailing arm. Much easier than trying to compress the spring with the tool.
 
Gary
This is not specific to the E9, but sometimes if i only need a small amount of compression I will use a 1” strap clamp (similar to a ratcheting tie-down except there isn’t a hook). Because it’s only a strap it will fit where there is no clearance for the metal hooks of a conventional spring compressor (ex ona coil over where the spring ID is close to the shock OD). I use a pretty wimpy ratchet because it’s small, so it’s only good for 400-600lbs of total compression.

Not always easier than the thread rod type, but it’s an alternative.
 
Gary Knox said:
I've started the process of replacing my rear shocks and springs. Not wanting to let the axle drop more than the specified 18 degrees, I am first replacing the shocks (well, the right one this afternoon). Now, in trying to compress the spring enough to get it out, I'm a bit 'stuck'. My compressors are the ones with a long bolt and a single "U" on one end and a double "U" on the other. I find I have to orient it so the bolt head is at the bottom of the spring, so I the long bolt will extend up into the wheel well. In this position it is very hard to access and turn the bolt head.

Seeking any counsel the e9 mechanical gurus can supply on the correct or most efficient procedure for replacing these two components. I have the blue books, which indicate they are for the e9, but the rear spring guidance in the books seems to be only for the e3. I also did a search on this website, and unfortunately did not find a previous procedure discussion. Must be here, I'm just a lousy detective!

Thank y0u for any guidance. And an especially Happy New Year to all.

Cheers,

Gary-
Click to expand...

gary,
i did it
and as always there is a thread on the subject

https://www.e9coupe.com/forum/threa...all-and-not-so-small-bits-around.14519/page-2
 
Last edited:
Good to know what that angle limit is. I plan on rebuilding my CV’s, so I just let them droppity drop.

HB Chris said:
Gary,

I jack up the trailing arm, install the spring compressor and then lower the trailing arm. Much easier than trying to compress the spring with the tool.
Click to expand...

Excellent!!!
 
Gary Knox said:
Jesus, I was certain there had to be a thread, but my detective work just didn't find your excellent prose and pictures. THANK YOU, (wish I could write Happy New Year in Spanish!).

Chris, Thanks for that suggestion. Since I have the car on a lift, I hadn't thought of that route. I'll give it a go tomorrow.

Gary--
Click to expand...

gary, you are welcome, and if you consider the cv joints, there is another one too,

https://www.e9coupe.com/forum/threads/cv-joints.13960/
 
Thanks Jesus - I re-greased etc. the CV joints about 1000 miles ago. They were fine, cleaned/greased/new boots, then installed the original left shaft on the right and vice versa. Thus, the primary ball/receiver joints are now 'new' compared to previous contacts.

Gary
 
Top tip here. I found compressing the springs to be the most stressful of all e9 projects thus far. The kinetic energy held back by metal of dubious origin felt like handling a bomb.

HB Chris said:
Gary,

I jack up the trailing arm, install the spring compressor and then lower the trailing arm. Much easier than trying to compress the spring with the tool.
Click to expand...
 
Stevehose said:
Top tip here. I found compressing the springs to be the most stressful of all e9 projects thus far. The kinetic energy held back by metal of dubious origin felt like handling a bomb.
Click to expand...
i agree with this caution. i replaced the shocks on my e12 many years ago ... one of the spring compressors slipped and the spring shot over my head ... luckily not hitting me. haven't compressed a spring since then.
 
There are compressors that are more convenient to use but the idea Chris had of letting the car do the work is excellent.
With the wheels off I really don't think you can hurt the CV joints letting the trailing arms and related hang down. I've done it on all my BMW's for years. Those joints are very sturdy.
I guarantee you no shop mechanic is wasting time supporting the trailing arms. Remember the diff is attached to the body.
Gary
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top