Replacing the tension strut bushing

Bmachine

Bmachine

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The big ones on the subframe near the tow hook... Any tricks to pull the old ones out and new ones in? The autobooks manual suggest using a piece of pipe to act as a spacer.

http://www.sehlin.com/cscoupe/tech/autobooks/chapter9/autobooks_manual_099.htm

But that piece of pipe would need to be at least 6.5cm / 2.6in.

Is there another option? I think OCCoupe mentioned an easier way but I forgot what it was...

Thank you.
 

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Bo,

I used the biggest 1/2" drive socket that fit over the opening and ran a bolt through it with large washers on each end and pulled it forward by tightening the bolt/nut. On our 2002 the front valance is in the way so I resorted to more drastic tactics, I drilled the bushing everywhere I could from the front until it disintegrated, not fun but it worked. Shoot a bunch of penetrant in there as well, good luck.

Chris
 
Thanks Chris.

HB Chris said:
I used the biggest 1/2" drive socket that fit over the opening and ran a bolt through it with large washers on each end and pulled it forward by tightening the bolt/nut.
Click to expand...

My biggest socket is a 24. If I understand you correctly, if I pull a bolt through that, I might get the center metal sleeve but none of the rubber. I would probably need a 70mm socket to be able to suck the whole thing out.

On our 2002 the front valance is in the way so I resorted to more drastic tactics, I drilled the bushing everywhere I could from the front until it disintegrated, not fun but it worked. Shoot a bunch of penetrant in there as well, good luck.
Click to expand...

Yes I was even thinking of slicing the part of the rubber that hangs out front off and then push the whole thing in (towards the back of the car).

Mike had mentioned something about using a bearing driver set. But I don't see how that would go over the full rubber bushing like in the Autobooks page illustration.
 
Why not use the pipe. There is probably a piece of exhaust pipe lying around somewhere in the yard, or any auto parts or hardware store should have piece of pipe?
 
Hello Bmachine, either a really big socket as Chris said or a piece of pipe like restart said, I used a piece of pipe from HD and some big washers and a nut and bolt but some lube is key here too both going in and removing. It's a pretty easy job if you take your time. You can cut it, but if you lube it up and pull it out the front it should be fine. Also, when installing the new one use the same piece of pipe (which should allow just enough room for the bushing to fit inside) that way as you pull it back into place the sides of the pipe stop the bushing from mushrooming. Again, assembly lube is your friend :)
 
OK I was trying to avoid having to drive to HD just to get some pipe so I looked at what I had. Then I realized I could use the tow hook as one side of a "bridge". I then put a piece of wood at the top and then used the transmission bracket from my dearly departed slush box to pull the whole thing out with a long bolt.

Note: The washer should not be "too" large. I first used one of the big tension strut washers (2 inch or so size) on the back end and that did not allow the rubber to compress enough to go through. Result? See first photo. Use a 1 inch washer on the back with a bolt that is about 5 inch long with threads going at least 2 inches.

It came off really quite easy without penetrating oil. I will definitely use some lubricant to put the new one in though.

Note the notch on the wood piece so the force does not go on to the sway bar bracket.

Thank you for all the suggestions.
 

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I used what I had on hand, Harbor Freight's Ball Joint and 4 Wheel Drive Service Tool Kit. A little ghetto since it doesn't quite fit in the "socket" but the impact gun really helps persuade it.
P1090869.JPG
 
Taking one out is really simple and fast.
Stick the zee rod end into the bushing from the front of the car and push left to right.
They pop right out. It's all about the leverage.
Takes just a few seconds.
 
I use my long 1/2 in extension, stick it in the hole from the frt, do like Don says, a little left to right and then I pry downwards just past the hook,. it just pops out. I made up some brackets using tubing with a big washer welded to one end, same thing on the back side and a long grade 10 bolt to draw the new bushing through. I put a little lube on it to make it slide easier. I made the pieces up cause I do so many of these both the coupes and 2002's all the same diff. This is not a big deal to do
 
sfdon said:
Taking one out is really simple and fast.
Stick the zee rod end into the bushing from the front of the car and push left to right.
They pop right out. It's all about the leverage.
Takes just a few seconds.
Click to expand...

stphers said:
I use my long 1/2 in extension, stick it in the hole from the frt, do like Don says, a little left to right and then I pry downwards just past the hook,. it just pops out. I made up some brackets using tubing with a big washer welded to one end, same thing on the back side and a long grade 10 bolt to draw the new bushing through. I put a little lube on it to make it slide easier. I made the pieces up cause I do so many of these both the coupes and 2002's all the same diff. This is not a big deal to do
Click to expand...

Now you guys tell me....

;)
 
I was surprised at how robust these bushings are. I replaced them but the ones removed actually looked pretty good.

I took my E24 to a Turner Sat morning car check and found the subframe bushings were shot. I went on a spree and did these on my 635, M6 and E3. Has anyone else dealt with their subframe bushings? Used Oem for the E3 since I could find no poly bushings but poly for the others since I never want to do this job again.
 
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