RHD Brakes

burky

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I am having trouble Bleeding my brakes , I have bled the system a number of times and no luck , I do the boosters first then left rear , right rear ,left inner, left outer , left upper , then right , there is no air coming out , but no pedal. The entire system is new other than the boosters which were rebuilt , I am starting to wonder if I need to run the moter to get vacuum to the boosters before they will function , or do I have a problem internally with the boosters. Any Ideas?
 
Hi Burky, you shouldn't need vacuum through boosters to bleed the system. The factory manual pic of bleed sequence for front calipers show upper nipple first, then inner second, and outer lower last. If that doesn't work perhaps crack the master cylinder lines, maybe an air pocket in the mc. Who did your boosters? If they were leaking enough to stop pedal pressure coming up I reckon you'd see the reservoir level dropping a bit, they'll leak into the booster can when the seals are gone, but that's unlikely if they've been resleeved
 
Hi Burky, you shouldn't need vacuum through boosters to bleed the system. The factory manual pic of bleed sequence for front calipers show upper nipple first, then inner second, and outer lower last. If that doesn't work perhaps crack the master cylinder lines, maybe an air pocket in the mc. Who did your boosters? If they were leaking enough to stop pedal pressure coming up I reckon you'd see the reservoir level dropping a bit, they'll leak into the booster can when the seals are gone, but that's unlikely if they've been resleeved
Thanks Ian C , I will try that sequence , my engine is not running yet, so it is good that its not an issue.
 
I use a pressure bleeder, then as stated above do the wheels before the servos.
I think I did the rears first, then fronts, then servos. Then did it all again for small bubbles, then drove it, then did it again.

If you have not already changed the hoses and reservoir to MC hoses then I would do that before bleeding as the bleeding is such a PITA. Clutch stuff whilst you are at it?
 
I am having trouble Bleeding my brakes , I have bled the system a number of times and no luck , I do the boosters first then left rear , right rear ,left inner, left outer , left upper , then right , there is no air coming out , but no pedal. The entire system is new other than the boosters which were rebuilt , I am starting to wonder if I need to run the moter to get vacuum to the boosters before they will function , or do I have a problem internally with the boosters. Any Ideas?
Hi there , I have not bled my RHD brakes yet as my car is still under restoration, but I always bleed cars by starting the furthest away from the brake pedal, so by that thought , I think you should not bleed your boosters first.
I think you should definitely start at the rear and work towards the front of the car.
But again I am just going by what I have done on other cars not my csi.
Also , the furthest from the brake pedal by pipe line distance is the rear drivers side as the pipes goes across the bulkhead to the boosters on the passenger side and then back to the brake pressure reducing valve also on the passenger side of the car and then on to each wheel. ( the drivers one is furthest along the pipeline).
Good luck with it !!!
It’s all ahead of me some day .
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Thank Barry B , that was the system that I used first , rear then front then boosters , The fact that there are 3 bleeders on the left front is the complication, I believe , I will keep at it and it will happen eventually!
 
I know we discussed this before and there were two schools of thought but I believe the annotations in the Blue book are incorrect. For the fronts I always do inner, lower outer, upper outer. Your mileage may vary!
 
Are you using a pressure bleeder? This is a must. It is a tedious process and just when you think they are done, take it for drive and do it again. Top nipples first goes against logic as bubbles will rise. Bleed from back to front and bottom to top, where the last air will be.
 
I've always bled them boosters first, they are effectively two master cylinders, rears, then fronts as my earlier post. The important bit is the lower pair of pistons must be bled inboard first then outboard. As its a split system it doesn't matter whether you do the upper pair (single nipple ) before the lower pair (inner and outer nipples). My 2002 and e9 blue books are the same on this. As Gaz says a pressure bleeder definitely makes life easier
 
Thanks again for the input, I will try and get a pressure bleeder, I have important business on the golf course today but will have a go on Monday.
 
I've always bled them boosters first, they are effectively two master cylinders, rears, then fronts as my earlier post. The important bit is the lower pair of pistons must be bled inboard first then outboard. As its a split system it doesn't matter whether you do the upper pair (single nipple ) before the lower pair (inner and outer nipples). My 2002 and e9 blue books are the same on this. As Gaz says a pressure bleeder definitely makes life easier
I'm following the method Don advised, though from unreliable memory. I'll check the UK E9 newsletter for information on twin booster bleeding.
 
I've always used the following sequence to bleed my RHD brakes with good success.

front servo
NSF upper
OSF upper
rear servo
NSR
OSR
NSF inner
NSF outer
OSF inner
OSF outer

Drive and then repeat fo best effect

(p.s. dont forget to do the clutch slave whilst you are there)
 
NSF, meaning near side front? Is that near to the curb or near to the driver as in right side? OSR - off side I presume?

Your method is doubtlessly correct and helpful and is probably obvious to everybody else but I need a clarification.
 
That's it Gazz

Near and off side might be British terminology, but you're right. Near side is the side nearest the curb (i.e left) and offside, the other (right)
 
What a wonderful tool a pressure bleeder is!, I have a pedal , a smidge spongy ,but still a pedal , I also did the clutch which does not seem to have an enormous amount of resistance ,but there is some . A constructive day.
 
John Castles guide to RHD brakes bleeding attached
 

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  • DIAGNOSING BRAKE PROBLEMS..pdf
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Taken from Mike Macartneys 02 restoration book.
 

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  • img20220205_15040132.pdf
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That's the one. Thanks daddywad.

What happened to the newsletter? I know John Castle had to move on for personal reasons though I thought someone else took it up?
Hi Gazz, John basically retired and now we are waiting for someone to pick up the reins and run with it again. the Car club magazine sometimes has an E9 section but not lately
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I have just restored all my brakes etc and bought a brake suction bleeder – and did all my brakes and cluck – and it did not work!

I spoke to a man who did and he told me the only way is this way –

Get a brake pressure bleeder like this

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Laser-LAS4832-Manual-Brake-Bleeder/dp/B002ZTRUAW



This then pressurize the reservoir and this is the correct sequence to bleed is as follows.



This is for RHD Cars only



  • Top servo
  • Passenger top nipple
  • Drivers side top nipple
  • Bottom servo
  • Passenger back calliper
  • Drivers back calliper
  • Passenger front middle inside nipple
  • Passenger front outside middle nipple
  • Drivers side front rear middle nipple
  • Drivers side front outside middle nipple


Then the clutch –

This may need repeating a couple of time …

The pressure bleed machine automaticity fills the reservoir as you bleed.

I have done this once and I now have pressure on peddles.

Also, I was told that sometime with the clutch you may need to pressurize it from below???



I think with the RHD setup this is the only way to pressurize from the top…

But there may be someone out there can tell me differently.
 
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