Wondering what y'all have experienced with this and maybe what works well. As you can somewhat see, my undercoating is cooked off above the headers.
Rust proofing and undercoating to survive exhaust temp
- Thread starter Thomas76
- Start date
Honolulu
Well-Known Member
As would wrapping them with fiberglass like the bikers, though it might hold moisture on the otherwise untreated exhaust pipes.
Something about those exhaust pipes looks odd, like me. It seems they are a 3 into 1, and a 2(?) into one. Must be the angle of the shot.
Is that POR-15 on floor patches, or something else?
Something about those exhaust pipes looks odd, like me. It seems they are a 3 into 1, and a 2(?) into one. Must be the angle of the shot.
Is that POR-15 on floor patches, or something else?
Exhaust is 3-1 for both headers, and yes it is por15. I plan to wait a few days before light sanding, then going to try the 3m undercoating over the POR. I also painted my arm and can say the stuff bonds well to everything.
Not sure the undercoating will stick to the POR-15, it's slippery stuff. Please let us know how it goes.
Haven't tried yet but I've heard if you scuff the surface anything will stick, fingers crossed!
Por sells their own primer to help paint stick.
Honolulu
Well-Known Member
Sanding should provide at least a moderately good mechanical bond. Might want to test paint a small section with POR-15, it's expensive stuff to have falling off, but my sense is that it will work.
POR-15 says sanding not necessary if you use their tie coat primer, so using that product can save you the upside-down sanding.
Common sense suggests loose and flaking rust should be removed.
A pal used quite a bit one weekend on his old Volvo and judging from how splotchy he stayed for days and days, it sticks to skin really really well. Gloves a must, some lanolin or petrolatum on otherwise exposed arms could be useful, depending on whether you have a formal appointment (long sleeve shirt) or not (T-shirt) over the following days. Use a throwaway brush and you won't have to waste solvent in a futile attempt to clean the brush.
Curiously, on Amazon, the can illustration says to remove rust but the product description says no need to remove rust. "POR" is alleged to be an abbreviation of "Paint Over Rust".
POR-15 says sanding not necessary if you use their tie coat primer, so using that product can save you the upside-down sanding.
Common sense suggests loose and flaking rust should be removed.
A pal used quite a bit one weekend on his old Volvo and judging from how splotchy he stayed for days and days, it sticks to skin really really well. Gloves a must, some lanolin or petrolatum on otherwise exposed arms could be useful, depending on whether you have a formal appointment (long sleeve shirt) or not (T-shirt) over the following days. Use a throwaway brush and you won't have to waste solvent in a futile attempt to clean the brush.
Curiously, on Amazon, the can illustration says to remove rust but the product description says no need to remove rust. "POR" is alleged to be an abbreviation of "Paint Over Rust".