rust proofing
- Thread starter Tundra
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x_atlas0
Well-Known Member
While POR-15 is good stuff, I was steered away from using it, as it hardens to a ceramic-like coating. Given how whippy the chassis is, my body guy said it would crack under stress. He pointed me to naval-grade rust inhibitors, and I have been very pleased with them. I can call him up and ask which kind he used, if you all would be interested.
Malc
Well-Known Member
Call him Up!
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Malc
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Malc
Bill Riblett
(deceased)
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I've used POR-15 in the past, but have pretty much quit. It is kind of a pain to work with. It is very effective at gluing the can lid on once you have opened it and it sticks REALLY well to anything you get it on where you don't want it, especially you skin! (you basically have to wait for it to wear off if it dries on your skin.) I've found that once opened, the remaining contents of the can harden before I can finish it.
It is not available in spray cans, is not UV resistant and is tricky to topcoat.
I've switched to the Rust Encapsulator sold by Eastwood
www.eastwood.com
which is available in spray cans as well as pint/quart/gallons in red, black and silver. Unlike POR-15, it sticks well to bare metal and painted surfaces and is UV resistant and doesn't seem to have any special requirements to be painted over.
It is not available in spray cans, is not UV resistant and is tricky to topcoat.
I've switched to the Rust Encapsulator sold by Eastwood
www.eastwood.com
which is available in spray cans as well as pint/quart/gallons in red, black and silver. Unlike POR-15, it sticks well to bare metal and painted surfaces and is UV resistant and doesn't seem to have any special requirements to be painted over.
blumax
(deceased)
Use and handling of POR-15
Many of the issues mentoned above can exist when using POR-15--however--the following steps when taken will avoid their happening and give this fine product credit it deserves--also to help it to be better understood.
1) As POR-15 is not UV tolerant over long term--only use where corrosion challenges are worst--such as under carriage, rocker area surfaces and new metal being fitted to the inner car body undergoing restoration and/or internal areas where a top coat of paint is unecessary--remember the vast majority of rust and corrosion develops from within.
2) When correctly applied a uniform coat of POR-15 encapsulates the metal surface and presents an impenenetrable barrier to future moisture coming in contact with the protected ferrous metal--hence rust will not form on that coated surface.
3) After opening and using part of a container--place piece of plastic film between lid and top of can--then it will not stick as stated above.
4) When plastic film and lid are securely in place--invert can and store upside down to preserve the rest of your material until ready for use--it saves the material.
5) POR-15 has very similar chemical properties to super glue so it behooves you to wear vinyl gloves whenever applying same to avoid "gluing fingers together" and having to wait for time to pass to wear it off.
6) As a general guide--if applied over any other existing coating already in place it will not perform as expected since its integrity is then dependent on that in place coating--best to only apply it directly to the surface you want to protect.
7) POR-15 is an excellent product--should not be considered as paint--rather a special and proven means of denying moisture to the underlying ferrous surface you are treating.
All of my statements above are based on my years of use of this product. BLUMAX has had liberal application wherever rust and corrosion had previously appeared. Further, if corrosion has not compromized the structural integrity of the steel you are working with--simply remove the surface rust and apply directly over the surface rust--it works and time does not compromise a wel applied coating.
Caution---be sure to use in a well ventilated environment--its fumes can be a harmful--I always had a fan blowing over the work space or in the open air. By the way--unlike paints--it likes to be applied when humidity is high as that triggers its catalizing its curing/drying process.
HTH
Many of the issues mentoned above can exist when using POR-15--however--the following steps when taken will avoid their happening and give this fine product credit it deserves--also to help it to be better understood.
1) As POR-15 is not UV tolerant over long term--only use where corrosion challenges are worst--such as under carriage, rocker area surfaces and new metal being fitted to the inner car body undergoing restoration and/or internal areas where a top coat of paint is unecessary--remember the vast majority of rust and corrosion develops from within.
2) When correctly applied a uniform coat of POR-15 encapsulates the metal surface and presents an impenenetrable barrier to future moisture coming in contact with the protected ferrous metal--hence rust will not form on that coated surface.
3) After opening and using part of a container--place piece of plastic film between lid and top of can--then it will not stick as stated above.
4) When plastic film and lid are securely in place--invert can and store upside down to preserve the rest of your material until ready for use--it saves the material.
5) POR-15 has very similar chemical properties to super glue so it behooves you to wear vinyl gloves whenever applying same to avoid "gluing fingers together" and having to wait for time to pass to wear it off.
6) As a general guide--if applied over any other existing coating already in place it will not perform as expected since its integrity is then dependent on that in place coating--best to only apply it directly to the surface you want to protect.
7) POR-15 is an excellent product--should not be considered as paint--rather a special and proven means of denying moisture to the underlying ferrous surface you are treating.
All of my statements above are based on my years of use of this product. BLUMAX has had liberal application wherever rust and corrosion had previously appeared. Further, if corrosion has not compromized the structural integrity of the steel you are working with--simply remove the surface rust and apply directly over the surface rust--it works and time does not compromise a wel applied coating.
Caution---be sure to use in a well ventilated environment--its fumes can be a harmful--I always had a fan blowing over the work space or in the open air. By the way--unlike paints--it likes to be applied when humidity is high as that triggers its catalizing its curing/drying process.
HTH
Another vote here for Eastwood's Rust Encapsulater paint. And, all of Murray's excellent advice considered -- there's still no "rust proofing" a kOoPe. Just rust decelerating... 8)
Thanks for the input. It all helps. I had used a similar product to Por 15 about 10 years ago that I bought from Griot's garage. I used it to cover a small part under the dash of my 74 3.0cs, closed the cover and could never open the can again. The last time I checked under the dash 4 years ago that small part I had painted still looked good. I realize that nothing cures rust. It's like cancer, you cut it out if you can, use chemicals, (chemo) and hope it doesn't come back. Been there, done that thank you very much. I'm trying to restore a 72 3.0csI just bought that has some rust and was looking for a product that would provide some protection and delay for a few more years the inevitable.