Any advice on the best way to clean these up?
Seams like they do not come apart
Seat rail Cleaning?
- Thread starter BarryG
- Start date
Any advice on the best way to clean these up?
Seams like they do not come apart
I took mine apart, sandblasted, and then zinc plated and reassembled.
The trick, or at least what I did, was to drill out the dimples that keep the balls from coming out. Think I used 1/8" drill. Then I tapped the holes and used a set screw with a dab of silicon to keep them in place. Was not an easy job but worth it in the end. I even bought replacement balls probably from McMaster-Carr.
After the holes are drilled, they might have to be filed a bit to get out the balls and rollers. I got new rubber orings for the rollers.
Hope this helps if you want to go down this road. Of course one may not choose to have them plated, if they are in good condition, just clean them up add some grease and good to go. We have the luxury to zinc plate using a Caswell Kit.
caswellplating.com
jjs2800cs
Some pics
The trick, or at least what I did, was to drill out the dimples that keep the balls from coming out. Think I used 1/8" drill. Then I tapped the holes and used a set screw with a dab of silicon to keep them in place. Was not an easy job but worth it in the end. I even bought replacement balls probably from McMaster-Carr.
After the holes are drilled, they might have to be filed a bit to get out the balls and rollers. I got new rubber orings for the rollers.
Hope this helps if you want to go down this road. Of course one may not choose to have them plated, if they are in good condition, just clean them up add some grease and good to go. We have the luxury to zinc plate using a Caswell Kit.
Plating Kits - Zinc Plating Kits - Caswell Inc
caswellplating.com
jjs2800cs
Some pics
How about a strong solvent I can wipe on and off in an hour or so and be done. 2jjs@2800cs, yours look better than factory. Beautiful job.
I didn't know it came with these small bullets...
How have you found the results with the plating Kit? Those look greatI took mine apart, sandblasted, and then zinc plated and reassembled.
The trick, or at least what I did, was to drill out the dimples that keep the balls from coming out. Think I used 1/8" drill. Then I tapped the holes and used a set screw with a dab of silicon to keep them in place. Was not an easy job but worth it in the end. I even bought replacement balls probably from McMaster-Carr.
After the holes are drilled, they might have to be filed a bit to get out the balls and rollers. I got new rubber orings for the rollers.
Hope this helps if you want to go down this road. Of course one may not choose to have them plated, if they are in good condition, just clean them up add some grease and good to go. We have the luxury to zinc plate using a Caswell Kit.
Plating Kits - Zinc Plating Kits - Caswell Inc
jjs2800cs
Some pics
View attachment 181043
View attachment 181044
View attachment 181045
View attachment 181046
View attachment 181047
View attachment 181048
View attachment 181049
I have had mostly great results with the kit. I have been zinc plating, then chromate dipping now for nearly 10 years. The key as usual is in the preparation of the parts to be plated and keeping the various solutions baths clean (especially the actual plating solution) as they do over time get contaminated.
There are several "chromate" baths that give color and protection to the freshly plated zinc coating. The most common is the yellow chromate which give the parts the cadmium plated look, that is commonly used on nuts and bolts. What we used on the seat rails is the blue coating, which actually gives the shinny silver looking finish. A black coating is also used which gives the black oxide look.
The coatings are somewhat a necessity as as I understand it, zinc coatings are sacrificial, in that they deteriorate over time. I am not a chemist or metallurgist, maybe someone can chime in here on that.
One can get as fancy or as home made with plating as one wants. I seen videos with people using a car battery and homemade solutions. A good stable constant current power supply is really necessary. They are 50 or so bucks for a 10 amp supply on amazon. The higher the capacity the more pieces one can do at a time. But I found with too many pieces in the bath sometimes do not get complete coverage on certain geometries.
One is also limited to the size of the piece, notice for the seat rails I used a plastic storage container and did them one at a time.
If one is just doing common nuts and bolts, then might be better to buy them. But is one had special brackets and hardware, that cant be replaced, then keeping them in your custody can be a real plus versus sending to a plater across town, if you can find one. DIY can be quite rewarding and if doing many pieces such as during a restoration, can save lots of money. I suppose the same thing could be said about doing one's own powder coating, which can do with an old kitchen oven.
Hope this helps.
jjs280cs
Last edited:
Last edited:
@jjs2800cs : very clever method, way better (drilling out the notches) than what I did (bending the rails open).
I struggled to get the rails bend back into place and having the tracks run smooth again.
I struggled to get the rails bend back into place and having the tracks run smooth again.
otter74
Well-Known Member
Topic not exactly what I thought it was! The rails on my passenger seat are very, very stiff. I have to use much of my body weight to slide the seat back, and the only way to move it forward is to push it from the back seat. Perhaps the rails are just full of solidified grease? I’d rather have some idea before I pull the seat out. Driver’s seat is fine.
Sounds to me like it's full of hardened grease. Pull the rails out of the car, slide them out max, clean that side, and the umderside of the opposite end.
If it helps, but not enough, then you might need to open them to clean them further, or fully submerge them in solvent and re-lube.
One of these rat tail brushes may be helpful.
Mind you that there is a rubber ring inside the mechanism that may not cope well with solvents.
If it helps, but not enough, then you might need to open them to clean them further, or fully submerge them in solvent and re-lube.
One of these rat tail brushes may be helpful.
Mind you that there is a rubber ring inside the mechanism that may not cope well with solvents.
Was there a variation in tracks over time? Neither my 72 E3 or my 73 E9 have actual ball bearings, only those track bearings with the o-ring and they still look different than the ones presented here.. I am not heavy but my seats are a PIA to move forward or back in the E9, E3 is fine.
e30strube
Well-Known Member
Love the idea of drilling out the dimple to get the ball out. Didn't think about that. I bent mine a bit to get it out, but now I can't keep the ball in the slide. Do they just help keep the sliding smooth? Are they even needed?
BMW I suppose thought the balls bearings were necessary. When I put mine back together with some new ball bearings (4.5mm) they slide very very nicely.
jjs2800cs
I think the balls are essential for the sliding. The cilinders/rollers that are Inside only ensure that the system doesn't ratlle. They do not take any significant force.
It is the balls that carry the forces, thus they are essential.
If rails that are heavily worn, the balls create dimples in their resting positions. That gives a non-smooth adjustment feel when sliding.
Secondly, I can also imagine that it may run very bad due to old hardened grease. Who knows what owners sprayen in there the past 50 years.