Shift linkage rebuild

Yes it can. For ease of access, you might want to drop the exhaust and the driveshaft though.

Also replace "4", they cause quite a bit of play when worn.

As a matter of fact, I just did the exact work today on my 5speed E3 becuase the gearbox is leaking. Had to replace the seal on the output flange and the shifter linkage into the box. Still leaking though :(
 
FWIW- when faced with the same problem [shifter too far forward] I cut the rod in 1/2 and threaded a stud into it. Installed it and adjusted until I was satisfied with the coreect throw then welded it. I went with the M3 shift
lever for my car sourced from the salvage yard.
 
To answer Mr. Riblet's question, the parts list includes:

- 147mm DSSR shift link
- USSE5 kit for E24 6 series

The conversion uses the stock sheet metal 'carrier', but you may have to swap for a new shift knob, the lever needs the newer 'push-on' styles. My machinist owed may a favor so I had him modify the lever (he threaded it) so I could reinstall my coveted older Alpina shift knob (threaded). My installation is completely disguised and stock in appearance.

I recall TJ/Corsachilli made a write up and post some pics, do a 'cowpoke racing/UUC shift kit install' search on this board.

HTH
-shanon
 
I have excess play in my shift linkage, too. I just installed the 5-speed in my coupe less than a year ago. I used the parts in this diagram, combined with an E21 lower shift lever, so I could reuse my old upper lever and knob.

The 320i lever needs to be bent about 15 degrees aft and a little to the left. The upper lever hits the console when shifting into 5th.

But I might be able to eliminate the contact with the console if I could reduce the play in the linkage. Even a brand new part #9 has a nylon bushing insert that has an ovalized hole in it, giving you side-to-side play right out of the box. What is with that?? I have read references to replacing the nylon with bronze bushings but I haven't been able to source any.

Charlie P.
 
The more I think of it, I kinda like Don's idea of modifying the linkage part #10 (the "shill rod") instead of trying to heat and bend the aluminum lower shift lever, which is what I was planning to do. Although I would have to find someone to weld it for me, I could both shorten and twist the rod slightly to better center the upper lever inside the car.

Still have to fix the lateral play problem, though.

Charlie
 
Lateral play is #4 and #9 - replace those and you will be amazed!

BTW- any muffler shop will weld that for 10 bucks cash....
 
That diagram is not from an E9 (which doesn´t have a 5speed option) but more likely from an E24.
Part 17 is a nice and usefull adition to keep noise out. I´ve used it in my E3 5speed conversion. It does make the shifter feel a bit less mechanical, but well worth it to keep noise out. Especially as I´ve replaced the ugly E3 rubber shifter boot with leather version that lets more noise through.

Most important though is part 18 from the E24. It´s very tight fitting rubbery foam piece that is vital to keeping noise out of the cabin. Much better than the original E9/E3 part (less dense, flatter).
 
I have brand new parts #4 and #9. Still have play, and it's due to the oval shape of the nylon bushing in #9. It can only get worse with wear...

Part #17 was not on my car either, but several years ago I spotted it in the parts diagrams and ordered one. It made a noticeable difference in the temperature of the tunnel/console area! Hot air was leaking into the cabin through the opening in the tunnel making the A/C's job harder. That rubber seal stopped it.
 
I ordered part 9 new from BMW and the nylon bushings are not oval. Perfectly round and no lateral play whatsoever. My gearbox is a mess (leaking, noisy), but my shifter ist perfect... :wink:
 
i say

part no 4 is the usual suspect, rubber rots out and makes for very sloppy shifting.

But that's only the case on some of the cars I've been involved with. Surely yours are different, or not. Anyway, I'd replace number 4 first, then while you're down there shake things and see how each joint in the whole shebang contributes a little to the mix.
 
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