Shifter platform just dropped...

bimmerboy73

Well-Known Member
Messages
495
Reaction score
22
Location
C0ckeysville, md
The mounting point to the shifter platform (at trans tunnel ) just broke. Can still get the car into gear, but the platform is no longer attached to the chassis. Looks like a single bolt / nut connection through the steel floor of the tunnel. Bolt is intact... steel snapped off into a perfect little square tab about 3/4" x 3/4". Not rusty at all. Just sheared right off. Not sure if the PO's conversion from auto to manual contributed at all?

Looks like I'll have to get it welded and likely reinforced with an additional sheet of steel. Anyone else ever have this happen to them? Any words of wisdom before i get this fixed would be appreciated.

Richard
 
Never seen that happen. Check tranny and engine mounts and tighten the 2 side blocks AFTER you attach the rear mount.
 
Hi Richard - yes the conversion likely contributed to this. I am in the middle of this conversion, and it appears that neither of the existing holes in the platform line up perfectly with the three holes in the chassis for the auto. (I say appears because I just finished changing the o-ring on the speedo drive prior ti installation; tranny had teflon tape around drive opening, which probably was a half-assed attempt to fix a leak). If the platform to chassis mount is not square, it will put lots of stress on a small portion of the threaded fastener as the drive train moves.

I have rigged up a small metal plate with holes that line up with the shift platform, mounted up and off the platform with rubber a/c dryer mounts. I plan to drill a hole in the plate directly under the chassis hole and use a third dryer mount to get a proper attachment.

Another thing to look at are the blocks that attach to the tranny that hold the shift platform. The portion of each block the holds the platform to tranny bolts has a rubber surround that diminishes the vibrations transmitted from the tranny to the platform. If these are shot, the mount will be held less securely and transmitted vibration to the shift to chassis bolt will increase.
 
Hi Richard, I am not sure but I don't think there is a "stock" piece that connects there, I think it would likely be something made up by the PO so who knows why it broke, but you can manufacture your own mount like Chris did (I think) and make it as strong as you like though it should have some type of insulation to allow for vibration and the occasional jolt. I used a mount from a 633csi and a piece of fairly thick "strap steel" to make the connection to the tunnel.
 
I put in a five speed and used an air cleaner mount to tie the rear of the shifter platform up to a hole that was perfectly positioned. However the mount has broken twice.

There are different mounts available that can be used. Some are longer, some shorter, some more robust than others. Almost all need a third hand inside the car while you push it up through the hole from underneath.

I don't have the P/N that I used at work, but if interested, PM I can look for it.
 
I put in a five speed and used an air cleaner mount to tie the rear of the shifter platform up to a hole that was perfectly positioned. However the mount has broken twice.

There are different mounts available that can be used. Some are longer, some shorter, some more robust than others. Almost all need a third hand inside the car while you push it up through the hole from underneath.

I don't have the P/N that I used at work, but if interested, PM I can look for it.

charlie,

thanks for the input. However, the mount is still there, complete with rubber anti-vibration washer. my problem is that the steel around the mounting point has sheared off so that there's a perfect 3/4" x 3/4" square opening where the mounting hole used to be.

i purchased a steel bar that i'll cut down to about a 5" length (its 1" wide and between an 1/8th and 1/16th thick) to span the sheared opening. Plan is to span the original hole opening, bolt it down on either side of the mounting point and then drill a new hole in the same position as the original. Took it to a shop to have steel welded in and the guy recommended not doing so because of how thin the steel is at the tunnel. recommended bringing it back if i have issue with the mechanical connection. - i think he's just scared to mess up the car... which i can appreciate.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top