Should I plug the distributor vacuum retard?

Stevehose

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Read in various places that the retard function is only an emissions stop-gap for idle and not needed or desired - should I plug this and its associated vacuum connection for smoother idle? I tested the procedure and the idle raises up so the carbs would need adjusting but not an issue there. If so, do I reset the timing too? What say the experts? Also, keep the advance function as is?
 
Emisssions

equipment is bad. In your case, something is amiss if you have full time vacuum on the retard side. That solenoid only opens under given conditions.

Disconnect it. But determine why it's on. Somethings crossed, grounded, or plain went bad.

If you timed by disconnecting, no you shouldn't have to retime.

Compare the two distributer specs for all in timing- should be around 32-35 degrees at say 3000 rpm or so. Vacuum and mechanical. But I think that distributer is a little less. An advance timing light is best but you can mark the balancer or flywheel and see how close you are at all in timing.
 
What conditions open the solenoids? Those things are mystery devices and nothing is written about them - they just sit there.

I thought the retard is on at idle (manifold vacuum) and stops once the throttle plates open and the advance vacuum kicks in?


That solenoid only opens under given conditions.
 
Overrun comes to mind. But there were interconnections of both the dash pot, which slows down throttle overrun, the advance, and retard. If I recall it shows up in the bluebooks in the tune up section which isn't on the website and again on the electrical schematics in some obscure place next the a/c.

Needless to say, the theory was wrong. Retarding your timing just makes things hotter hence the reduced emissions.

As far as throttle response, the vacuum advance is primary until mechanical kicks in and suppliments which is linear until 3000 rpm or so. So it's easy to check your distributer by all in timing.

Your advance needs ported vacuum. Make sure.
 
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