Solution for removing overrider rubber

jmackro

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Page down to post #15 to see how I solved this problem. Thanks to everyone who provided ideas!

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My reason for going down this rabbit hole is to have my bumper overriders replated. But to do that, I need to remove the black rubber "bumpers" that cover the faces of the four overriders. These are attached with four 6 mm studs and nuts (see first photo below). The hardware tends to rust, making it impossible to loosen without shearing off the studs. I have used a small nutsplitting tool to crack the nuts on the outer ends of the overriders, but was unable to fit my splitter over the curved surface of the overrider to attack the inner nuts (see second photo below).

Does anyone have a creative idea for removing these nuts? I have tried penetrating oil and heat (you can't cook them too much, as they are in contact with the rubber). I believe that splitting the nut is the best approach; does anyone know of a tool that is small enough to get in there? Most nut splitters seem to be made for huge nuts located in easily-accessed spaces. Getting a chisel and solid backing into the overrider seems impossible. Grinding off one side of the nut with a Dremel perhaps?

It would be nice if replacement rubber & stud assemblies were available, but they seem to be NLA.

I know that the "last resort solution" is to just shear off the studs and use short sheet metal screws to secure the rubber to the overriders. But before doing that, I thought I'd tap the collective wisdom & experience of this group.

Overrider Nuts (1).jpg
Overrider Nuts (2).jpg
 
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I'd use a dremel as well. Go easy, chop 2-3 corners off. Then proceed to make a slot in the round visible side of the nut so to place an old flat screwdriver in it, an gently hammer it off, splitting what is left of the nut away from the threads of the bolt end.
 
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I would have drilled the nut in two pieces. One small hole on the left site and one on the right side of the bolt. For example a 5 or 6 mm drill is enough. Then you hamer the spliced nut from the nut.
By the way: first a small center point.

Than you recover the windings of the bolt.
(May be not the best English :) )
 

and another part available again:
for both sides available
.....and the reproduction of the boot lid
which I could inspect on Mark Thompson's car at the Bicester Heritage Meeting:
20240929_100238.jpg
He was really happy with the quality of the lid!

Just to make it clear: I am not affiliated with Stefan Ries, I'm only happy to see NLA parts surface again from time to time!

Thomas
 
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New rubber is cheap- cut it off!

I wasn't aware of Stefan Ries, the supplier that TomHom recommended in post #6. Still, it looks like all four pieces would come to 180€ from Ries, or $197 plus shipping. I suppose that is "cheap" in today's environment, but I thought I would try for a backyard fix before going that route.

Fritzie said:
I would have drilled the nut in two pieces. One small hole on the left site and one on the right side of the bolt. For example a 5 or 6 mm drill is enough. Then you hamer the spliced nut from the nut.

If I had enough room to drill the nut, I would have had enough room to be able to use my small nut splitter. Unfortunately, access is pretty constrained for the inner two nuts, since the underside of the overrider is "U" shaped in two dimensions.

But hey, keep the ideas coming!
 
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The use of carriage bolts by BMW for the bumpers was not a good choice. As stated above, cut one side with a Dremel. That's usually enough between the decreased resistance of a partially missing pert of the nut and the heat that the Dremel created.
 
As stated above, cut one side with a Dremel. That's usually enough between the decreased resistance of a partially missing pert of the nut and the heat that the Dremel created.
Yes, that is the strategy I am going to pursue next. I have a set of small cut-off disks on order from Amazon. Will report back on how successful this approach was. Even if the cutting process mungs up the threads on the studs, it isn't as if the nuts have to retain a lot of force.
 
Even if the stud is broken off, there is enough material to drill and tap.
View attachment 191321
Yes, that works on the rear rubber pieces because they are "L" shaped. I've already broken the studs on my rear pieces, and have drilled them for sheet metal screws. But the fronts are "U" shaped and the troublesome hardware is on the inner part of the "U" where it is less accessable (my nut splitter got the outer nuts). I'll have to going in at an angle to drill and/or tap the two inner holes.

I know that I'm being obsessive about this problem and could just get replacement parts for ~ $100. But it's become a challenge to see if I can salvage the old studs. If not, I'll do the sheet metal screw thing. Or use chewing gum!
 
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Maybe instead of going through the hassle, time, and expense of getting yours re-chromed, you could go buy overriders that are already rechromed like these. Chrome is so expensive now and the EPA has pushed chrome shops out of business in a lot of the US. Most of the chrome shops that are left are sending their stuff out to Mexico, could take quite to get yours back. Just an option for you.

 
I got some inexpensive Dremel cut-off wheels from Amazon and attacked the four inner nuts on my two, front overriders. Slicing through the nuts was a little tedious and the studs did get wounded in the process, but the rusted nuts came loose and the studs are good enough to still retain the rubber bumpers.

Here are a couple shots of the operation in progress:

Overrider cutting nut 2.jpg


Overrider cutting nut 1.jpg
 
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