Spark plug end connector question

Bmachine

Bmachine

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Damn, do I feel like a rookie after not having opened a hood in 22 years taken over by parenthood...

So I am doing the basic tuneup on this car I recently got. New dizzy cap and rotor, new spark plug wires, Pertronix, new spark plugs. OK, that last one should be the easiest. I did a search on this forum and the recommendations are either for the german W7DC or NGK BP6ES. So I order the NGK from Amazon.

I am now ready to install them, check the gap, and get ready to unscrew the fat connector end so I get just the threaded bit onto which my new cable will attach. But low and behold, instead of just removing the "fat" end piece, the whole connector unscrews and comes out of the porcelain spark plug body. WTH ??? Do I remember this wrong? I thought we used to simply unscrew those endings so we could get the threaded bits? Has this changed completely? How is this supposed to work now?

Photo of existing plug with correct end and new one...

Thank you in advance.
 

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before you destroy the rest :)

Hi there, there are NGK's that are listed for our cars that do not unscrew! I don't know the exact reason why etc, but if you can return the undamaged ones to the auto parts store and order the correct ones (that do unscrew) then you'll be OK.

I am not sure of the reason for the difference as they both look the same- but having ruined 2 plugs I can assure you there's something different :)

If you have not installed the electronic ignition you may want to do the tune with points, that way you can check the performance when you install the Petronics. Some people say there is a noticeable difference and prefer points.

Good luck
 
Thanks Peter. yes, I tried a second of the NGK spark plug and the whole connection comes off. You can't unscrew the top part. This is really frustrating. Is there a different part number? You would thing that a major difference like would create a different number for sure. Below is a photo of the boxes. If someone has a photo of the boxes of the ones with removable top, could you please post it if it is different?

I kept the current plugs for now and installed the Pertronix. What a difference. My engine definitely runs smoother with it. This seems to match the experience of other people I read from on this board. Im surprised you read that some people prefer points.
 

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Bmachine said:
Damn, do I feel like a rookie after not having opened a hood in 22 years taken over by parenthood...

So I am doing the basic tuneup on this car I recently got. New dizzy cap and rotor, new spark plug wires, Pertronix, new spark plugs. OK, that last one should be the easiest. I did a search on this forum and the recommendations are either for the german W7DC or NGK BP6ES. So I order the NGK from Amazon.

I am now ready to install them, check the gap, and get ready to unscrew the fat connector end so I get just the threaded bit onto which my new cable will attach. But low and behold, instead of just removing the "fat" end piece, the whole connector unscrews and comes out of the porcelain spark plug body. WTH ??? Do I remember this wrong? I thought we used to simply unscrew those endings so we could get the threaded bits? Has this changed completely? How is this supposed to work now?

Photo of existing plug with correct end and new one...

Thank you in advance.
Click to expand...



Although the original equipment ignition wiring, with the bakelite spark plug terminals, is tried and true, there are alternatives (none of which are being advocated here).

For what it's worth, the plug style you originally ordered has been favored mostly by US (and to a lesser extent Asian) manufacturers, which doesn't make them better or worse than the Euro-style (threaded post) equivalents. It may make them more available though.

Fit is certainly important given the M30 head's recessed spark plugs. But also the original wiring was solid core non-resistor. The terminals were resistor equipped (5000 Ohms?), which is one of the reasons recommended spark plugs were of the non-resistor variety. The effect of potentially doubling up on the resistance by using stock ignition wires and resistor plugs is probably negligible for an otherwise average daily driver. Yet I have seen some owners switch terminals to the more traditional "US style" to avoid the added resistance when using resistor plugs.

My own preference has been to go with what has worked for decades, but in a pinch . . . reasonable minds may differ. ;)

09024.jpg








sn851938.jpg
Picture_of_Terminals_for_Website_2007.jpg
 
So applying this to those of us who use BP5ES, the code number on the incorrect BP6ES (7334) is listed at BP6ES-11.

There is a BP5ES-11 which is code 7344 which I am assuming (I know) to be the terminal type.

I just ordered code 7832 BP5ES, I hope this is the removeable nut version and will advise.

These seem to be getting harder to find locally.


Luis A. said:
It's happened to a lot of us... ;-)

The one you want is NGK# 7333 with "Terminal Type: Removable nut" vs. #7334 which is a "solid nut"

See 7333 specs here:
http://www.ngk.com/product.aspx?zpid=9405
and 7334, here:
http://www.ngk.com/product.aspx?zpid=9406
Click to expand...
 
I have been using NGK BR and BP plugs in my English cars for 30 plus years and each require removing the nut. I have never had a plug where the nut couldn't be easily removed as the NGK website states.


Cross threaded at the factory? Send them back or just buy new locally. They aren't that expensive. All major parts chains can order and usually have the plugs in a day.

And....this type of plug connection is the best IMO.
 
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