Starter question

Peter Coomaraswamy

Peter Coomaraswamy

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Hi Guru's I put what I believe to be a new starter in the Tundra coupe this morning (boy was that fun) anyhow, after hooking everything up and turning the key I get a Whirrr, but no engagement to the flywheel or so it seems. Could I have a lead on incorrectly??

Please chime in- I hope not to have to remove it because I spent my last weeks pay employing a small Vietnamese woman to walk on my back at lunch time so I could stand up after performing the exchange.
 
Whirrr, but no engagement to the flywheel or so it seems. Could I have a lead on incorrectly??
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No, I can't see how an incorrect electrical connection would cause that symptom. If the starter spins, the solenoid must be working, and if the solenoid is working, it should be moving the pinion gear to engage with the ring gear.

I can't explain what's going on, but strongly doubt that simply moving a wire will fix it. Sorry!
 
Have you upgraded the starter?
Whirring means starter turning but no engagement, Possibly a soleniod fault. I am sure you recal NO lubrication on the starter throw out other than dry graphite!
 
I'm thinking solenoid too. My Coupe has twin Webers and I have been able to just remove solenoid and replace it with starter still in there. Fiddly, but can be done. Good luck!
 
I may move with the 850 starter as it's smaller. Thanks for the comments everyone-I was hoping there was a secret button somewhere, ugh!
 
bluecoupe30! said:
I'm thinking solenoid too. My Coupe has twin Webers and I have been able to just remove solenoid and replace it with starter still in there. Fiddly, but can be done. Good luck!
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Agree that you would focus on the solenoid if you wanted to get the starter working (as opposed to swap out the whole starter-solenoid assembly for a different unit). In thinking about the operation of changing a solenoid with the starter in-place, the trick would be to properly hook the rod from the solenoid onto the lever that actuates the drive. Is it possible that the solenoid rod in Peter's starter isn't properly hooked onto the lever? Then the solenoid would actuate, switching current to the motor, but it wouldn't move the pinion into the ring gear.
 
I’m a retired 2002 owner with nothing better to do than spend time on faq and this site. Beats Fox News. Never ceases to amaze me how people on this site rally to help each other out.
 
jmackro said:
Agree that you would focus on the solenoid if you wanted to get the starter working (as opposed to swap out the whole starter-solenoid assembly for a different unit). In thinking about the operation of changing a solenoid with the starter in-place, the trick would be to properly hook the rod from the solenoid onto the lever that actuates the drive. Is it possible that the solenoid rod in Peter's starter isn't properly hooked onto the lever? Then the solenoid would actuate, switching current to the motor, but it wouldn't move the pinion into the ring gear.
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Exactly, when I did just that, I first practiced with a spare on the bench so that I could see the actions needed to complete the hooking of rod to lever. Then when actually performing the task, I could picture where I was at and how to manoeuvre the solenoid to make the correct fit. As I say, "fiddly" but not unlike so many other jobs.
 
There is no way I'm going to operate on the starter in the car, the chances of me getting everything correct the first time is slim-to-none so I'll do the upgrade. Normally I enjoy frustrating myself and doing work many more times than necessary but I'm a little busy this week. Again, thanks everyone for the comments!!
 
Peter Coomaraswamy said:
There is no way I'm going to operate on the starter in the car, the chances of me getting everything correct the first time is slim-to-none so I'll do the upgrade. Normally I enjoy frustrating myself and doing work many more times than necessary but I'm a little busy this week. Again, thanks everyone for the comments!!
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as we say on the space station...why do something once when you can do it twice, or more?
 
It's so true, now I get to rebuild the engine since its frozen up tight. I put my scope in there and there is water damage. The head is 1971 so likely it's cracked. I'm contemplating my options...
 
Peter Coomaraswamy said:
It's so true, now I get to rebuild the engine since its frozen up tight. I put my scope in there and there is water damage. The head is 1971 so likely it's cracked. I'm contemplating my options...
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Engines are a dime a dozen...but a clean e9 chassis is priceless.
 
Question: Is there any value to returning this to "original" since I have the original block and everything else seems to be there? And yes Drew, I have a feeling I'll soon find out exactly how priceless a clean e9 chassis is, ugh!
 
Peter Coomaraswamy said:
Question: Is there any value to returning this to "original" since I have the original block and everything else seems to be there?
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"Value" in terms of contributing to the resale value of your coupe? My sense would be "no"; e9 owners don't seem to be that concerned with originality, and a starter can be easily (*) swapped if your coupe's next owner is worried about this. The usual protocol is to save the original parts and pass them on when the car is sold.

*) OK, maybe replacing e9 starters isn't that easy. But "easy" in the sense that no metal needs to be cut or welded.
 
J, I was thinking more in terms of block and head. When I did the Polaris one the I kept everything original and the new owner went through and modified allot of stuff so I guess you're right that most e9 owners don't worry too much about it.
 
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