Steering box adjustment screw
- Thread starter alanmcg
- Start date
Honolulu
Well-Known Member
Never seen an socket head screw there on any of my 14 2002s, two CS, a couple 5 series, one 6 or one 7 series. Sure you got it right when you looked at it?
A set of ratchet driven allen sockets is a good thing to have around. They are not too commonly used in coupes but there are a couple places which you will eventually discover.
A set of ratchet driven allen sockets is a good thing to have around. They are not too commonly used in coupes but there are a couple places which you will eventually discover.
im sure
yes im sure it a socket head - and space way too small for rachet and allen socket. i am going to cut down a 90 degree allen wrench, and was hoping to cut down only the right size, but oh well - maybe ill get lucky on the first one.
thnks anyway.
yes im sure it a socket head - and space way too small for rachet and allen socket. i am going to cut down a 90 degree allen wrench, and was hoping to cut down only the right size, but oh well - maybe ill get lucky on the first one.
thnks anyway.
alan,
sorry don't know the size.
Just writing to suggest that before you go cutting up your allen set, did you try using an allen headed bit and a 1/4" wrench? I find that in tight places where the standard socket+ratchet doesn't fit, I turn to my ratcheting screwdriver set for one of the bits and a 1/4" ratcheting wrench - its as convenient as a socket but very compact.
sorry don't know the size.
Just writing to suggest that before you go cutting up your allen set, did you try using an allen headed bit and a 1/4" wrench? I find that in tight places where the standard socket+ratchet doesn't fit, I turn to my ratcheting screwdriver set for one of the bits and a 1/4" ratcheting wrench - its as convenient as a socket but very compact.
coupeking
Well-Known Member
'Tightening' the steering box
Don't do it!
The CS steering box is a finely calibrated piece, and messing with that adjustment screw will likely bring woe instead of a tighter front end. If the front end is loose, check the control arms, and tie rods and the idler arm bushings first.
Tightening that screw was a common thing on high mile 2002's, and the screw and nut are readily accessible on that model. Most coupe folk grew up with a 2002 and learned that trick. Coupes have been protected from this as the screw and bolt are well hidden under the brake booster, making it harder to monkey with. The cars that have had this done will likely fail the steering box in short order, most notably with a very tight feeling on center and a twitchiness of the front end, and a failure to return to center after a turn.
Have a car like that in the shop now. When he took the motor out to replace it, he tightened that screw to 'improve handling'. The car would not return to center on driving, and could not be corrected as the box was damaged internally within a few hundred miles of driving. A new--used but unmolested--box is fixing the problem.
Peter
Don't do it!
The CS steering box is a finely calibrated piece, and messing with that adjustment screw will likely bring woe instead of a tighter front end. If the front end is loose, check the control arms, and tie rods and the idler arm bushings first.
Tightening that screw was a common thing on high mile 2002's, and the screw and nut are readily accessible on that model. Most coupe folk grew up with a 2002 and learned that trick. Coupes have been protected from this as the screw and bolt are well hidden under the brake booster, making it harder to monkey with. The cars that have had this done will likely fail the steering box in short order, most notably with a very tight feeling on center and a twitchiness of the front end, and a failure to return to center after a turn.
Have a car like that in the shop now. When he took the motor out to replace it, he tightened that screw to 'improve handling'. The car would not return to center on driving, and could not be corrected as the box was damaged internally within a few hundred miles of driving. A new--used but unmolested--box is fixing the problem.
Peter
Couldn't Agree More
The shaft tends to wear at the screw location. If you tighten the screw at the wear point then it's to snug on the rest of the shaft. As a result when you turn the steering wheel the wheel won't come back to center on it's own, you have to turn it back manually.
The shaft tends to wear at the screw location. If you tighten the screw at the wear point then it's to snug on the rest of the shaft. As a result when you turn the steering wheel the wheel won't come back to center on it's own, you have to turn it back manually.
Hi Alan!
Before we get into the deep of the power steering box function (and it's deep).
First, how come you want to adjust/tighten the play in the steering box?
Like coupeking says, it could (likely) be other things to look at first, that could solve your issue.
From my experience the power steering box is a "long life" part.
Raise the front and do the above checking list first.
Moving wheels back and forth will only show some wear. You also need a crowbar to really do some real impact on the arms/rods.
For the rest of us to help you further, tell us what's wrong with the steering according to you.
Rainy greetings from northern Europa :-(
Stefan
Honolulu
Well-Known Member
Play in the steering, as noted, comes from many places including the box.
I had more play than I was comfy with in my coupe until recently, and some other noises happening when I did a left hand turn. Finally I got the car up on stands and started shaking things... lo and behold the center tie rod was worn badly at two of the joints (idler and pitman arms if you must know).
This is a large surprise to me since I'd replaced it some years ago and don't drive the coupe all that much. Of course, the odo is out so I can't estimate the mileage for certain, but it would seem like less than 20,000 miles.
Anyway, they're getting harder to find - my FLAP couldn't get one from either of their two wholesalers, SSF and (someone else). A quick net search found the best prices at getbmwparts.com. No affiliation, just that they had the genuine article at a better price, delivered to me in the middle of the Pacific, than other suppliers.
So I put it in, and the looseness was gone but the bup-bup-bup on left handers remains. Very disappointing and food for a different thread.
Where to look: only after securely supporting the car, get under and shake the center tie rod. Look for play at (in L-R order) the left outer tie rod joint, left inner tie rod joint, pitman arm, idler arm, and right inner tie rod joint, right outer tie rod joint. Next the ball joint at the outer end of each lower control arm (note the ball joint is not separable from the knuckle, you have to buy the arm with the joint complete). Check that the bushing on the idler arm is not worn out.
Car back on ground, wheels straight ahead. Check the condition of the steering column u-joint upstream of the steering box, it should not rotate independently of the upper or lower section of the steering shaft. Gently rotate the steering wheel, at the rim there should be maybe an inch of rotation before the pitman arm rotates. (This is the main but not only test of the adjustment of the box). You can adjust the box using the set screw and lock nut on the top but they are something awkward to get at. Every 2002 I've ever had (maybe 15 or so) needed some adjustment and was a happier drive after doing it.
As cautioned above don't overdo the adjustment. Not certain why all the cautions noted above for a simple thing, but I respect those opinions. I have no certainty of your mechanical aptitude or "feel" for the works, so if you're the checkbook type of car-fixer, it's time to get the check out and write it to the trusted party of your choice.
I had more play than I was comfy with in my coupe until recently, and some other noises happening when I did a left hand turn. Finally I got the car up on stands and started shaking things... lo and behold the center tie rod was worn badly at two of the joints (idler and pitman arms if you must know).
This is a large surprise to me since I'd replaced it some years ago and don't drive the coupe all that much. Of course, the odo is out so I can't estimate the mileage for certain, but it would seem like less than 20,000 miles.
Anyway, they're getting harder to find - my FLAP couldn't get one from either of their two wholesalers, SSF and (someone else). A quick net search found the best prices at getbmwparts.com. No affiliation, just that they had the genuine article at a better price, delivered to me in the middle of the Pacific, than other suppliers.
So I put it in, and the looseness was gone but the bup-bup-bup on left handers remains. Very disappointing and food for a different thread.
Where to look: only after securely supporting the car, get under and shake the center tie rod. Look for play at (in L-R order) the left outer tie rod joint, left inner tie rod joint, pitman arm, idler arm, and right inner tie rod joint, right outer tie rod joint. Next the ball joint at the outer end of each lower control arm (note the ball joint is not separable from the knuckle, you have to buy the arm with the joint complete). Check that the bushing on the idler arm is not worn out.
Car back on ground, wheels straight ahead. Check the condition of the steering column u-joint upstream of the steering box, it should not rotate independently of the upper or lower section of the steering shaft. Gently rotate the steering wheel, at the rim there should be maybe an inch of rotation before the pitman arm rotates. (This is the main but not only test of the adjustment of the box). You can adjust the box using the set screw and lock nut on the top but they are something awkward to get at. Every 2002 I've ever had (maybe 15 or so) needed some adjustment and was a happier drive after doing it.
As cautioned above don't overdo the adjustment. Not certain why all the cautions noted above for a simple thing, but I respect those opinions. I have no certainty of your mechanical aptitude or "feel" for the works, so if you're the checkbook type of car-fixer, it's time to get the check out and write it to the trusted party of your choice.
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Yes, some adjustments are not 100% failsafe...
Normally, you do this adjustment without any problem
Is the steering box the same as the E24?