Steering wheel restoration advice needed..

[GolfBavaria]

I have a Petri 38" that needs some refurbishing. Main question is the grip. The glue under the grip is no good in certain areas, I was thinking of injecting some kind of rubber/metal friendly glue underneath those areas to make it stick again, but not sure how to do that. Needle and syringe? I don't mind that the rubber is older, I like the squishy feel in a way. Or, take it off and have it nicely leather wrapped is another option. Or leave the rubber on after gluing, then have wrapped but worried that would not look right and too thick of a grip. Then as you can see there is some rust on back side, what is best way to clean that up? I don't want to scratch nice areas by using wrong Brillo pad, polish, or whatever? It looks chromed is that correct? So, shouldn't be able to use anything course. Chrome polish is what I am guessing but do not know this for sure. This is not going to be for a concourse car so I just want it to look presentable, some patina is ok and preferred actually, but I want it to function and not have rubber come off when gripping in a tight turn or something, that would not be a good thing. And if anybody knows anyone that really specializes in restoring these that has a great reputation if I have to send it there, that it will not takes weeks and weeks and I will get it back. I'd prefer someone local from LA to San Diego ok.

 

[nyccsi]

Steering wheel resto

http://www.aglausa.com/p/home.html

 

[HB Chris]

Bronze wool on the nasty stuff, polish on the rest, and a new leather wrap. The Collector would approve.

 

[rsporsche]

good luck on the metal spokes. i don't think chrome polish is going to do anything for you. the metal is oxidized ... and it isn't chrome plated. i have heard that it is next to impossible to cure what ails this wheel.

i hope that you can, as i'm sure there are other petris with this issue that would love to know how ... and given the value of them, you want to figure it out.

 

[GolfBavaria]

Chris, that was what I was wondering, I kept looking at it and looking at it and didn't think that it was chrome plated. But the way the little bubbles came up I second guessed myself. I was talking to our buddy about this and his suggestion was to take it to a local leather shoe guy, I forget his name, Fred or something I will ask him again, and have it leather wrapped/stitched. But I would have him take off the wrap that is on there now right? And not worry about over wrapping the leather to the worn out wrap, especially since it is loose underneath. I know that might sound like a dump question but I just want to make sure I do it right the first time. Your suggestion sounds right with the metal then as long is that is not plating of any sort. Good thing is most of it is on the back and you can't see it. No structural cracks or anything either. I think I will end up tackling the metal part myself and leave the wrap to the shoe guy. Probably be cheap enough that if he doesn't do a good job I will just try somewhere else. I guess next question then is, any suggestions on a nice black leather wrap for this wheel? And then stitching?

Bronze wool on the nasty stuff, polish on the rest, and a new leather wrap. The Collector would approve.

 

[Stevehose]

Maybe remove the foam and all other pieces down to bare metal and take it to a metal specialist for an opinion.

The CSL leather wheels had a cross-hatch style stitch, not the baseball type one.

 

[kwyjibo]

If the foam isn't dry or torn, you can fix the looseness. I have injected adhesive into the foam and it works well. I found a neglected Petri where the foam grip was loose and freely twisting around it's entire circumference - except at the spokes. I used a needle and syringe to inject adhesive (I think it was the 3M trim adhesive). I injected about every four inches into the air bubbles along the back to help hide the injection sites and squeezed the grip to help spread the glue.
A couple of tips that I learned:
- load the syringe without the needle. I didn't have much luck loading with the needle (suck up a lot of air) or by taking out the plunger and loading through the back.
- the glue is pretty viscous so it travels through the needle very slowly. Let the stuff flow for a minute after you put pressure on the plunger. If you pull the needle out too soon, the glue will continue to flow out.
- after a day or two to dry, go back and test your work by carefully trying to twist the foam. Re-inject as needed.
- and like I said earlier, inject at the small bubbles along the back to help hide the holes.
The wheel I have is still solid after 3 or 4 years.

I haven't had to clean up the spokes, yet.

 

[GolfBavaria]

Thanks for the continued advice on the injecting and stitching....now decisions decisions, I think if I can save it by injecting adhesive I might go that route just to keep it original, clean up the metal as best I can and see how I like it. I can't reverse that course of action once I go leather. Also, thank you for the stitching pic. It will be going on a Bavaria but should be the same stitch as CS correct? Oh, does anyone have any centers horn buttons for this that they want to part with while I'm on the subject?

 

[GolfBavaria]

http://www.aglausa.com/p/home.html

NYCCSI: Thank you for the recommendation. I mulled over options of injecting glue, or getting a leather shoe guy to wrap a leather steering wheel, me trying to get the metal polished out and in the long run decided to go with Allen Gun, your recommendation. I had a long talk with him today. He seems on the level but not only that, excited to work on the wheel. He really likes the Petri's so that was good to hear. He usually works on Porsche steering wheels but has done a handful of these and he says they turned out nice. He knows about the proper way to stitch it, can get the kit and leather for it so all in all I feel good about sending over to him. One thing I will pass along that I learned from him and that is, even after injecting glue and having the rubber not slip anymore, he says it is just a matter of time until it just starts falling apart or gets indented. I'm sure I could get a few years out of it but I figure might as well do it right and since they did come leather wrapped it will be period correct and I am excited to show you all the results. It didn't seem like he was trying to sell me on that, just said either way he would be happy to help me out, so... to be continued. I will take some better before pictures so we have something to compare it to, then take some nice after pics with it on and off the car, front and backside. Thanks for all your input. I think it will be about a 3 week turn around if I remember right, might be less.

 

[Stevehose]

Cool, please post pics when it's back.

NYCCSI: Thank you for the recommendation. I mulled over options of injecting glue, or getting a leather shoe guy to wrap a leather steering wheel, me trying to get the metal polished out and in the long run decided to go with Allen Gun, your recommendation. I had a long talk with him today. He seems on the level but not only that, excited to work on the wheel. He really likes the Petri's so that was good to hear. He usually works on Porsche steering wheels but has done a handful of these and he says they turned out nice. He knows about the proper way to stitch it, can get the kit and leather for it so all in all I feel good about sending over to him. One thing I will pass along that I learned from him and that is, even after injecting glue and having the rubber not slip anymore, he says it is just a matter of time until it just starts falling apart or gets indented. I'm sure I could get a few years out of it but I figure might as well do it right and since they did come leather wrapped it will be period correct and I am excited to show you all the results. It didn't seem like he was trying to sell me on that, just said either way he would be happy to help me out, so... to be continued. I will take some better before pictures so we have something to compare it to, then take some nice after pics with it on and off the car, front and backside. Thanks for all your input. I think it will be about a 3 week turn around if I remember right, might be less.

 

[Bert Poliakoff]

Alan Gunn has a very bad reputation with the E24 and E28 guys. Bad service and sloppy work. Next go round, google Chris Scow, Close to at least a good 1/3rd less than AG, hi grade work, and 5 day turn around. Will also use the stitch you want and whatever color thread you choose at no extra cost. He did my Alpina wheel and I am more than pleased with the finished product.

 

[GolfBavaria]

Bert,

That's not good to hear, already sent it off to him. Hope I am the exception then, I will report back. Now I won't sleep for a week.

-Shane