Supplementary instruments

inovermyhead

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I would like to install 3 additional gauges using VDO dials in my dash speaker cavity.
I have looked through some of the threads on the board but cannot find reference to which senders to use,
I intend to fit an oil temp, an oil pressure and a water temp and would really appreciate any help here.
The car runs an 89 m30b35 with a Haltec ps sport 2000 engine management system.

Cheers John
 
go to egauges.com, they have the Series 1 gauges which look like the stock gauges. They will also have matching sender units. That's what I used. Message me if want more info.

2b3c5403e5491306d472dcc995b6077a._.jpg
 
I designed my gauges at speedhut.com using their online design tool. The gauges come with all of the senders and wiring, well packaged with instructions.

I was a bit OCD about wanting the needles in the center (full sweep), with a silver center and a white dial. I paid extra for custom symbols instead of text. Since my instruments are all in German I didn’t want english text. I could have used German text also but opted for VDO style symbols. One of the reasons why I went with them is because I wanted my AFR gauge to match the other gauges. The removal of the tiny speedhut logo is extra but they didn’t charge me for that since I got custom graphics already.

I’m going to add a few switches to close the gap between the gauges and the radio, but I didn’t model that into the face plate.

0897c225dae289917f34ffc88c8c160a.jpg
 
I designed my gauges at speedhut.com using their online design tool. The gauges come with all of the senders and wiring, well packaged with instructions.

I was a bit OCD about wanting the needles in the center (full sweep), with a silver center and a white dial. I paid extra for custom symbols instead of text. Since my instruments are all in German I didn’t want english text. I could have used German text also but opted for VDO style symbols. One of the reasons why I went with them is because I wanted my AFR gauge to match the other gauges. The removal of the tiny speedhut logo is extra but they didn’t charge me for that since I got custom graphics already.

I’m going to add a few switches to close the gap between the gauges and the radio, but I didn’t model that into the face plate.

View attachment 40103

looks very familiar! ;-)
 
looks very familiar! ;-)

No - It was Duane Sword and @Ohmess (who was inspired by you), and the three gauge in my old 1984 VW GTI. Okay okay it was mostly all you! :D Your excellent forum contributions will inspire folks for years to come! I am using AC console sides however. I think it puts he gauges at a better viewing angle and I like the look of the AC console better. I plan on keeping my non-ac sides with the wood base in case I grow tired of my modifications.
 
No - It was Duane Sword and @Ohmess (who was inspired by you), and the three gauge in my old 1984 VW GTI. Okay okay it was mostly all you! :D Your excellent forum contributions will inspire folks for years to come! I am using AC console sides however. I think it puts he gauges at a better viewing angle and I like the look of the AC console better. I plan on keeping my non-ac sides with the wood base in case I grow tired of my modifications.

thank you but yours look much more Factory, very well done, and i am thrilled by the possibility of designing your own gauges, wow !

f5496396f388c780a0711f0e86aa272d.jpg

and i like to compare the chrome bezels in yours, mine look too much flat in that black color

and i prefer the simplicity of your lines without the switches, probably i will copy that when i redesign it ;-)
 
That means a lot coming from you Jesus! VDO gauges are still my favorite and my vote for @inovermyhead is to use VDO as he has indicated. It sounds like he has an aftermarket ECU though, which usually has an AFR input. I’m not sure why VDO doesn’t make an AFR gauge.
 
Thanks guys for your input, I’m going to go with the three dial option up on top of the dash and think I will use the water temp, oil pressure and voltage combo, I’m thinking voltage over oil temp but would be interested to hear your thoughts favouring one over the other. The other option is a combination gauge with both oil temp and pressure in one gauge, but I’m not sure if VDO make such a thing.
Still looking for guidance on the connection at the other ends though ie the connections.

Cheers. John
 
I had oil temp but replaced it with volts. Volts is good because it will show you a dying alternator or other charging issue before the idiot light tells you. Which happened to me. I think oil temp is only needed for racing, Water temp will suffice for a street car. Oil pressure is essential.
 
I think oil temp is only needed for racing, Water temp will suffice for a street car. Oil pressure is essential.

Agree with Stevehouse. One of my Alfas has an water temp / oil temp combo gauge. The two readings are always the same. I'm sort of puzzled how one fluid's temperature could be significantly different from the other, and what it would mean if it were. I suppose if the water pump stopped turning, the water temp would climb before the oil temp. But you'd have to be watching your gauges like a hawk to detect that condition (which I suppose racers do).

inovermyhead said:
The other option is a combination gauge with both oil temp and pressure in one gauge

I think that combination would drive you nuts. If you decide to have an oil temp gauge, combine it with the water temp - it will take a lot less time to process a quick glance at the gauge. Otherwise you'll be trying to remember "let's see - was pressure the top needle and temperature the bottom one? Or was it the reverse?".
 
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Thanks Steve and Jay, both great points and make a lot of sense.
So any answers of senders and length of hose+cables, I don’t want to under estimate the lengths nor do I want lots of extra tubing to try and hide.

Cheers. John
 
Thanks Steve and Jay, both great points and make a lot of sense.
So any answers of senders and length of hose+cables, I don’t want to under estimate the lengths nor do I want lots of extra tubing to try and hide.

Cheers. John

dear John, before photobutcher deleted all my photos i had several writeups with plenty of pics, if you have fixed the photobutchers thing and using chrome you can see them full with all the pics too,
tell me if i can help in any other way

this one deals with the cables and connections,
https://e9coupe.com/forum/threads/new-vdo-gauges-in-my-dash.9513/

and this one with the dash console connections
https://e9coupe.com/forum/threads/new-integrated-console-for-gauges-and-radio.18777/

hope it helps
 
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Thanks Steve and Jay, both great points and make a lot of sense.
So any answers of senders and length of hose+cables, I don’t want to under estimate the lengths nor do I want lots of extra tubing to try and hide.

Cheers. John

as to sensors, they should be in acordance with your gauges, i had the vdo ones first then i changed for the much more old style motometer, motometer still makes gauges with incandescent bulbs, while vdo is selling led lighted units, a matter of taste,...

the set of gauges and sensors costed me around 400 euro in each case

installation is not complicated but you should design it carefully to avoid making a mess of it, there are plenty of cables going back and forth the engine bay

i installed three sensors, an oil temp located in the oil filter support element, an oil pressure installed in the cylinderhead by means of a T connector that holds the tell tale light sensor too, and an additional water temp sensor in the thermostat box, the cables going to the battery feed the voltmeter

each sensor gives you a positive signal, you must then use a cable holding the negative, i decide to run a fresh negative instead of using earthed car body

then i recommend installing a fuse and a couple of switches in the gauges plate, but this is optional

using faston spades and connectors help making the setup easily removable for any maintenance operation

it is much better explained in the mentioned threads, including diagrams, but you should proceed as i mentioned with chrome and the fix for photobucket or you will see nothing
 
@inovermyhead this is the essential diagram

conect 1.jpg


where to drill a hole from inside the pedals area

conect 2.jpg

view from engine compartment

conect 3.jpg

routing of the water temp sensor and oil temp sensor

conect 4.jpg

the oil temp sensor
conect 5.jpg

the 2 water temp sensors, in blue the new one

conect 6.jpg

route to the pressure oil sensor

conect 7.jpg

and oil sensor , look at mounting T system, tell tale light sensor can be seen at the bottom
conect 8.jpg
 
You don't need hoses, just get a roll of similar gauge wire as the others in the car and wire them up one by one. For volts I just tapped into a switched red wire behind the dash. I routed the oil sender and water temp wires through a small hole in the firewall on the glove box side and up to the speaker area from there. I tapped into the reostat for the light bulbs so the gauges come on and dim along with the headlights. I grounded them all to the firewall, there is a self tapping screw back there already that can be used for this. The face plate is screwed in with nickel plated screws and i used small sheetrock anchors in the holes so they would grip.
 
AFR is an air fuel gauge which shows combustion mixture percentage under all driving conditions, very useful (essential?) if running triple webers.
 
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