The birth of Chimera - My 2800cs Purpose Built Track Car

scestes

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These chronicles of Chimera, my 2800CS dedicated track car build.

The Car:
I've always been a fan of both the 2002 and the CS. I have owned my 2002 for almost 2 years now, and my CS even longer. The CS was stripped down most of the way by my buddy who owned it before me as he was going to make it a track car. I believe (need to double check with mobile tradition) that it's a 1971 2800cs. It was born as a Malaga Automatic (I already have the pedals and hydraulics to turn it into a stick). I've wanted to build up this car for years, but always found other things to do. My girlfriend finally convinced me to get my butt in gear and do something with the car. In Nov/Dec/Jan, I finished stripping the car down to the bare shell, and began work. I built a dolly for the rear of the car, and borrowed a dolly from a friend for the front.

The end goal:
As I said before, this is going to be a purpose built track car that will never see city streets again. I'm looking to have coilovers at all 4 points, a full cage welded into the car, and to power it, I'm looking at either picking up an M90 from a euro spec 635csi or an M30B35 from 6 or 5 series. I'm going to run the car with EFI/Motronic. I realize that this will exclude me from vintage classes, but I'm really looking for the best power out of a reliable engine configuration that I'm not going to have to refresh every year or two. The reality of the situation is that I look at craigslist for several areas of California and ebay every day. If a deal presents itself, I may jump on it long before I'm even close to ready to drop the engine/transmission in the car, and which engine/transmission package goes in is going to depend on what presents itself between now and then.

The vision:
Having an early coupe, I'd really like to try and keep the car looking close to it's age for a race car. I really like all the boxy flares that are on most coupes, but I'm going to go for something a bit different. I've decided to pick up a set of these bubble flares for my build. I wish I had more pictures of cars with them on, but this is the only one I could find.
[Broken External Image]:http://gallery.xfiler.com/albums/BMWCS/jpoldpeltgray.jpg
I would like to keep the car it's original color, but have thought about adding some other color to the paint scheme. I don't want to get TOO crazy though. I don't think that when it comes to the paint that I'm going to want to spend days wet sanding to blend in a bunch of spots where two colors meet.

The Build:
I've already explained the plans for the power plant, let me touch a bit on the build up of the car itself. I'm stripping the engine bay, undercarriage, the cockpit, and the trunk to bare metal. The battery tray and other unneeded brackets are being removed from the car. The spare tire well will be cut out and a new frame built int the trunk to support a fuel cell. The roll cage will be tied into the rear shock towers, and I will build a strut tower brace between the rear strut towers. I will be painting everything but the exterior of the car with Por15 (I know there are other cheaper products, but I know this stuff, and I already have a good deal of it) rust preventative paint once it's been stripped to bare metal. I will then be painting over the top of the Por15 with their Hard Nose 2 part paint product in a light Gray. The suspension components will all also be painted in Por15 rust preventative paint, but they will be painted in a darker gray.

The Name:
Chimera - [ki-meer-uh]
Noun - Genetics. an organism composed of two or more genetically distinct tissues

I chose this name simply because I'm combining two distinctly different era BMW technologies. Sure the CS came with an M30, but the M30 and M90 engine options I'm thinking of using are worlds apart from the original M30 2.8L engine that came in my car. I am really hoping to take around a year to build Chimera. My goal would be to have it ready to race in Jan of 2010. I think it's a reachable goal, but there is a lot to do, and a large number of dollars in between here and there.

Re-enforcement:
There are a couple of spots on the car that are having issues with rust (I know, WOW! Big surprise right?). I'm looking to cut out the cancerous areas and beef them up with a bit of re-enforcement. The two front shock towers will both be re-enforced with extra steel, as well as the carrier mounts in the rear of the car where the rear subframe mounts to. I'll also be looking to strengthen the diff mount under the trunk with some additional steel.

Options:
Here are some things I will be adding to the car that are not stock (well, for a street car they're not stock)
Dry Cell battery mounted in the cockpit
Accusump
Fuel Cell
Fire Supression system
VDO gauges
Auto Gauge shift light system
Oil Cooler
Diff Oil Cooler (already have this)
Manual Steering box
custom made dash

Let's get started:
Last weekend and a few days this week I have taken a wire wheel to the engine bay in an effort to remove all the paint and undercoating. As I said, I'll be prepping the metal with Por15 Marine Clean and then Metal Ready before I put on the rust preventative paint. I finished the cleaning up of the engine bay this afternoon and am looking to get a coat of paint on it tomorrow afternoon.

To remove paint/primer/undercoating, I'm using a 3 pronged approach. For the large flat areas I'm taking an angle grinder with a wire wheel on it to the surface. For areas that have bends, I have a drill with two different sized wire brushes (lower RPMs are a LOT easier to handle as the wheel hits grooves and grabs), and then for areas that I can't get to with either of these tools, I use a sand blaster with a medium abrasive media. It takes a bit, but the metal doesn't get hot with this abrasive so it doesn't warp.

[Broken External Image]:http://gallery.xfiler.com/albums/2800cs-EngineBay-FinshedPaintRemoval/IMG_0995.sized.jpg

[Broken External Image]:http://gallery.xfiler.com/albums/2800cs-EngineBay-FinshedPaintRemoval/IMG_0996.sized.jpg

[Broken External Image]:http://gallery.xfiler.com/albums/2800cs-EngineBay-FinshedPaintRemoval/IMG_0997.sized.jpg
 

scestes

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Along the way I plan on putting up pictures and updates for this build. To make the thread easier to read, and save me a little bandwidth, I'm not posting all of the pics I take to the thread. If you'd like to take a look at additional pictures, feel free to drop into the following link.

http://gallery.xfiler.com/view_album.php?set_albumName=BMWCS

I'll also try to use this post as a Table of Contents for the build so that if you're trying to find out where I built my dash, you can find it here.

Thread updated by me 3/8/2009
 

Bill Riblett

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Big project!
You may want to reconsider using POR-15 for this application. It is really made to adhere to rusty surfaces. It doesn't stick all that well to bare metal or other paint and it is somewhat tricky to get paint to stick to it. It is also really messy to apply and to clean up.

I'm speaking as a former POR-15 user for maybe 20 years. Also, I live on the East Coast, where it is both humid and rainy and I am not all that impressed with POR-15 long-term rust proofing ability either.

I've switched to Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator for surfaces where I'm not sure I got rid of all the rust.
 

scestes

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Thanks for the suggestion Bill. I'll check that stuff out. Is there a cost difference between the two? Right now I've got a gallon of Por15 that I'm gonna use up for the majority of this job though. I've used Por15 on my 2002 when I rebuilt the suspension and thus far, it's stuck pretty good. I'm planning on using a couple of coats of Por15 rust preventive paint, and then putting their 2 part hard nose paint on top of it (which I already bought as well). I'll scuff sand the rust preventive paint first before putting on the hard nose. You are definitely right about cleaning up Por15. It never fails that I end up getting some of it on me somewhere and don't get it wiped off.

I've also gone the full route and am using their Marine Clean and Metal Ready products (as I've done in the past) to prep the surfaces before I paint them. I spray the surface with Marine Clean and scrub it really well, wash it down, then spray it down with Metal Ready and again rinse it down and try it really well. Using an air hose to get water out of the joints where two surfaces come together is important.
[Broken External Image]:http://gallery.xfiler.com/albums/2800cs-EngineBay-Por15/IMG_1018.sized.jpg

I found these handy little pressurized spray bottles at Harbor Freight for $4 a pop too. Makes spraying the surfaces evenly a quick job.

[Broken External Image]:http://gallery.xfiler.com/albums/2800cs-EngineBay-Por15/IMG_1016.sized.jpg

I managed to get the engine bay cleaned up with Marine Clean and Metal Ready this morning and then dried the engine bay really well. I started painting all of the corners and creases where metal comes together with edging sponges, then took a small 4" roller to the rest of the engine bay. I missed a couple of small spots here and there, but when I do the second coat, I'll make note of where I missed and go back to touch those areas up again once the 2nd coat has dried.

[Broken External Image]:http://gallery.xfiler.com/albums/2800cs-EngineBay-Por15/IMG_1019.sized.jpg
[Broken External Image]:http://gallery.xfiler.com/albums/2800cs-EngineBay-Por15/IMG_1022.sized.jpg
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[Broken External Image]:http://gallery.xfiler.com/albums/2800cs-EngineBay-Por15/IMG_1020.sized.jpg

Once I'm done with the the second coat of rust preventive paint in the engine bay, I think I'm going to be dealing with the area behind the front grills. There are a lot of little cavities up there and I'm going to have to use a small wire wheel to get most of that down to metal. It's going to be a tedious process, but I'm anxious to get that piece over with. I think the majority of the rest of the car will be pretty straight forward. The wheel wells will probably be a bit of a challenge too, but not nearly as much as the nose of the car.

With any luck, I'll be able to put the second coat on tomorrow. We'll see how work treats me.
 

MichaelP

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I've been thinking about a similar project for a 2800CS that I'm cannabalizing for a 3.0CS project. Where are you sourcing the bubble flares? Or are you having them rolled out of steel?

scestes said:
I wish I had more pictures of cars with them on, but this is the only one I could find.

Ok, you asked for it. Most of these are bubble-flared 2800CSs and 3.0CSs, but there are a few group 2 coupes in there because, um.. oh, just because.

2cce32743e3e2bc4e01aee0f55d01bb5.jpg


Edit: I moved the rest of the photos here as it was making this thread impossible to read while a zillion images loaded.
 

scestes

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MichaelP said:
I've been thinking about a similar project for a 2800CS that I'm cannabalizing for a 3.0CS project. Where are you sourcing the bubble flares? Or are you having them rolled out of steel?

Ok, you asked for it. Most of these are bubble-flared 2800CSs and 3.0CSs, but there are a few group 2 coupes in there because, um.. oh, just because.
1acaea724d2e1cdf9f7d3793b30cb7c7.jpg

Michael, first of all, AWESOME set of pics! Thank you so very much! I just spent the past 10 minutes drooling over them all. The pic above has an air dam very similar to what I want. I really want a vent in the center for my oil cooler in addition to the two vents shown. I may have to fab it, but that's what I'm looking for. I'm going to be buying my flares from a company in England. Here is their site.

http://www.zaprace.com/

I'll make sure to post plenty of pics of them after I've ordered them and they arrive. My buddy Shanon turned me onto them and they really grew on me.
 

lip277

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Damn.....

As was said -
That is one AWESOME set of racing pics...
 

scestes

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Over the past couple of days I have decided that I want to get a single coat of protective paint on all of the pieces that are going to get said paint before I go back and apply a second. My reasoning behind this is that I need wait for the paint to dry before I can do much with the car, and I'm going to get a bit of dust on the surface as it dries. If I go back and stuff sand it down a bit and do the whole car at one time, I think it will blend together a bit bitter and I won't see the seams where two work areas join together. I could be full of crap, but we'll see.

I took my lunch hour today and decided to take a stab at the drivers wheel well. I think I got around 30% of it done during my one hour lunch break. Hopefully I'll be able to do this more frequently as I'm working on a project that allows me to work from home quite a bit right now.

[Broken External Image]:http://gallery.xfiler.com/albums/2800cs-DriversFrontFender-PartiallyStripped/IMG_1047.sized.jpg

I'm not going to be getting much done this weekend because I'm doing a local car rally, and a friend is coming up from So Cal to celebrate his 40th birthday amongst a bunch of friends. So whatever I get done this week is going to have to suffice for now.
 
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