There's always one..... nut that is.

m5bb

m5bb

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Taking apart front suspension and steering today.

Got all the joints to pop easily except for one.

Did all the usual, heat, cold, heat, PB blaster, heat, hammer, you get the picture.
It' not like I haven't done this before.

Gave up yesterday and let it sit loaded over night hoping I would find it loose this AM. NOT!

More heat etc.etc.
Wasn't able to maybe apply as much heat as I wanted to because I didn't want to ruin the bearing and rubber boot. Made a shield to protect the rubber boot and got it pretty darn hot and then got the 5 lb hammer and gave it a couple big blows and bang it came loose.

Gary
 

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Ugh, things to look forward to! I keep the 5lb mini sledge handy for all brake and suspension work.
 
hey Mark, you need to go around and squirt every nut with penetrating oil, repeat once a week for a couple months
 
Apply Weekly, repeat

I heartily agree that multiple applications of penetrant and patience are the best ingredients for success. Brute force and heat are sometimes needed if time isn't sufficient for the job, but should be a last resort. I've lubed up all the points on the 2800CS a couple of times, waiting for the day when I get her in the shop, but I'm sure it won't be enough for that one fastener....


Ian
 
If it’s a total pain and you can’t get loads of heat into it to get it to move – here is an option, I have used a few times

Get a junior hacksaw or a normal hacksaw with a new blade and cut a slit into the nut, not all the way down but say 2/3rds of the way through.
Get a screwdriver in the slot you have just cut and give it a few taps and this should loosen the grab the nut has on the bolt.
Again if that does not work maybe a bit of heat into the nut and then used the screwdriver.
To state the obvious, the nut is now knackered and you will need to get a new one…

Hope it helps
 
My dad would say, 'Never use force, just get a bigger hammer.'

Of course, you risk trashing the part or threads by bashing on it. I like the hacksaw trick, that's an interesting idea.

Heat will almost always prevail, with an oxy/acetylene torch being the king here. A small tip can apply the heat mostly to a stuck nut. I've never had one that refused to release after becoming cherry red. However, you'll have trashed the temper of the nut and likely the part it's screwed to. I would replace any steering components that suffered this fate just to be safe. This is a tool best used for muffler area fasteners.

My long-time gearhead friend who is also a mechanical engineer says the best penetrant he has found is a 50:50 mix of acetone and ATF. I keep a jar of it on the shelf and a little syringe to apply it. Seems to work well, haven't actually had to use it much.

Ian
 
All this hammer talk reminded me of what a friend did. He straightens cars on a frame machine and hangs sheet metal after straightening. He has hammers hanging on the wall lined up from big to small with joke "labor rates"... The ten pound sledge starts at $10/hr and the rate goes up as the hammers get smaller. Not that far from the truth really.
 
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