Thermostat Housing

decoupe

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I'm putting in a new 80c thermostat and the housing has a bleed screw that I have freed up. Is there any reason to drill a 1/8" hole in the thermostat to aid in bleeding the cooling system if the bleed screw works? Any reason not to? Belts and suspenders?

Doug
 
hi

I have it done in my actual thermostat, I can not tell you really the difference whith a non-drilled one, because I did not check both

I can tell that it works ok with the hole on the thermostat

in my opinion there is no need of that hole except at the beginning of the bleeding of the system just after you have renewed the coolant, (it helps passing the air bubbles from the radiator side of the thermostat to the engine side (in which is the bleeding screw)), but as you can not remove it after that...as you say anyway it makes no harm on the normal performance once is bleeded

anyway to help you bleeding the circuit there is also another advise: if you have an old expansion vessel cap, drill a 3mm hole in the center of it (better say near the center (because in the center there is a bolt)), and after bleeding the circuit let the engine cool a little until the pressure goes off, then install the drilled cap, and warm again the engine, you can drive in that condition 10 or 20 km to assure enough movement of the coolant through the circuit, then you stop, put the normal cap and that is it !
 
hi

I have it done in my actual thermostat, I can not tell you really the difference whith a non-drilled one, because I did not check both

I can tell that it works ok with the hole on the thermostat

in my opinion there is no need of that hole except at the beginning of the bleeding of the system just after you have renewed the coolant, (it helps passing the air bubbles from the radiator side of the thermostat to the engine side (in which is the bleeding screw)), but as you can not remove it after that...as you say anyway it makes no harm on the normal performance once is bleeded

anyway to help you bleeding the circuit there is also another advise: if you have an old expansion vessel cap, drill a 3mm hole in the center of it (better say near the center (because in the center there is a bolt)), and after bleeding the circuit let the engine cool a little until the pressure goes off, then install the drilled cap, and warm again the engine, you can drive in that condition 10 or 20 km to assure enough movement of the coolant through the circuit, then you stop, put the normal cap and that is it !


Might I ask how this is supposed to work, since the cap's lower seal should always be pressed and sealed against the bottom of the filler neck? Only if system pressure exceeds 14.7 psi should air pass through the drilled hole; of course there's already an expansion tank outlet hose for this purpose. I know from wrestling with cap issues as of late.
 
Holy T-stats!

http://www.motoradusa.com/products/failsafethermo/index.html

FYI- The reason for the hole in the t-stat came from long ago when temp guages bounced wildly and the sender was near the t-stat. Blending smoothed it out. Think 1940 Ford and capilary tube senders.

The second theory is that air/ combustion gas can form before the stat opens and the stat being only liquid sensing doesn't open with gas nearby. Since some manufacturers do holes and others don't, it's cheap insurance. If you have consistant overheating issues, it's best to test the coolant for combustion gases with a $40 kit from Napa ( yeah I know- they should only sell wine.) not just look for bubbles; if you're not a subscriber to the process of substitution of parts and no effective result.

The more recent reason is the use of high flow/ volume pumps that cause the t-stat to do things it's not designed for (cycling excessively at warm-up) and fail.

The link above is for a new gizmo- it fails open; great for potentially overheating coupes. Pretty neat concept after all these years.
 
Might I ask how this is supposed to work, since the cap's lower seal should always be pressed and sealed against the bottom of the filler neck? Only if system pressure exceeds 14.7 psi should air pass through the drilled hole; of course there's already an expansion tank outlet hose for this purpose. I know from wrestling with cap issues as of late.

hi

no,no,no, sorry for the misunderstanding, the hole has to be made in the cap´s lower plate, to avoid the sealing of the corresponding seal that you mentioned

the idea is exactly the same as leting the cap open, but as you will drive the car, this way you will avoid coolant spils while you driving limiting the escape of air bubbles or eventually some liquid to a minimum

some cars that have a cap in the top of the radiator use a device with a hole in the cap in which a tube is placed that is fed from a bottle full of coolant placed as high as you can

the objective is to let the circuit move well the coolant through the intrincated and complex volumes of the M30 engine (increased if you have a CS with coolant passing through carburetors)

let me copy-paste part of an old post about this:

"""""reason for the problem: air bubbles, so incorrect bleeding, but...

how is this possible if you consider that I have been bleeding the circuit through the apropriate screw up to a dozen of times ?

the answer is: the bubbles formed inside the circuit do not move evenly towards the "exit" sign as if they were schoolboys, so you have to help them in the way out through the "other" egress mean,...eh ?...what ?

yes, say it aloud, you´ve got it ! the expansion vessel !!

but how can you do that ?, it is possible and easy, but you need a new cap, because the old one has to be tortured !

you have to drill a small hole (I did 3mm hole) in the lower part of the cap near it´s center, this hole will allow air bubbles + some coolant pass to the cilindric chamber formed by the neck of the vessel and the cap itself, in that reservoir you have the opening hole that allows excessive presure go out through a tiny tube

jsm0qc.jpg


pepared this apparatus you start the engine and carefully pay attention to warming up of engine, tubes, radiator,...take a look on the gauge !, and so on

after a while you will see that the liquid + bubbles are starting their way out through the tiny tube, don´t worry, but look again and again to the gauge, check tubes,...

you should accelerate to force the coolant move quickly and this way take the bubbles from inside the engine to the vessel

check the coolant level, the vessel should be full anytime, you will drop away some, don´t worry, if there is enough in the vessel no harm will be produced, and you are not going to spill so much liquid in this process

after some minutes you can assume that the bubbles are away, and then, you can take off the drilled cap, and replace it by the new one, and that´s it !""""""

Is it now clear ??

regards
 
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