Tips on windshield replacement
- Thread starter Luis A.
- Start date
Difficult
3 people needed. You can read up on the rope method of install. The rope loops around the rubber seating channel terminating and starting at the center bottom. One guy inside of car pulling rope and making sure the rubber lip fits over the metal opening seam, and most important, that is stays in place as you proceed. If the rubber slips off the the seam then you have to start over. The two guys outside keep the glass/rubber engaged along the bottom and then work the glass into the opening as the inside man pulls the rope. The window will have a tendency to slide upwards pulling the rubber seal off the bottom seam. So while working the glass in place the two outside guys need to keep constant downward pressure on the glass with one hand while slapping/pressing the glass inplace with the other, following along with the string pulling.
A hook like tool is handy to help pull the rubber seal over the seam.
Have fun.
3 people needed. You can read up on the rope method of install. The rope loops around the rubber seating channel terminating and starting at the center bottom. One guy inside of car pulling rope and making sure the rubber lip fits over the metal opening seam, and most important, that is stays in place as you proceed. If the rubber slips off the the seam then you have to start over. The two guys outside keep the glass/rubber engaged along the bottom and then work the glass into the opening as the inside man pulls the rope. The window will have a tendency to slide upwards pulling the rubber seal off the bottom seam. So while working the glass in place the two outside guys need to keep constant downward pressure on the glass with one hand while slapping/pressing the glass inplace with the other, following along with the string pulling.
A hook like tool is handy to help pull the rubber seal over the seam.
Have fun.
It can be done solo... you need to use a ratcheting strap to hold the window in place (run around the windshield, A-pillars and through the car) with some foam blocks to create steady pressure when you are in the car working the rope and the ratchet.
In fact, unless you have really good help, the strap method is preferable IMO.
Regardless of head count, pick up a couple of the suction cups readily available in the $1 bins and most hardware stores for handling the glass and setting in place.
-Richard
In fact, unless you have really good help, the strap method is preferable IMO.
Regardless of head count, pick up a couple of the suction cups readily available in the $1 bins and most hardware stores for handling the glass and setting in place.
-Richard
bimmerboy73
Well-Known Member
+1, 2nd and 3rd this method. Unless you have 2 friends who have done this before, better off with the ratcheting strap. Easier to control by far and the curvature of the glass actually helps the process.
Richard
This is really helpful guys, thanks!
What did you use to lubricate the rubber seal?
Did you use sealant at the body joint, as the service manual recommends?
Did any of you do an E3? It has different trim pieces than the E9, IIRC.
What did you use to lubricate the rubber seal?
Did you use sealant at the body joint, as the service manual recommends?
Did any of you do an E3? It has different trim pieces than the E9, IIRC.
bimmerboy73
Well-Known Member
I used dish soap and water. My body guy said that in the 30 years he's been working on coupes, he's never used a sealant. But... i did put a tiny bead around the seal when i was done... 3m window seal i picked up from Ace Hardware. The black, gooey stuff
Thanks again for your replies. I found a few more threads on the subject that were also very helpful.
One last thing that isn't clear to me yet is the best removal technique. Seems like the trim could come off before pushing it out, or as the workshop manual indicates, just push it out one corner using your feet without having taken the trim off. Cut the seal or not? Suggestions based on your experience? Will the glass suddenly and entirely pop out (doing this by myself) so if so I'm envisioning having the ratcheting strap in place to prevent it from flying out. Yes...?
One last thing that isn't clear to me yet is the best removal technique. Seems like the trim could come off before pushing it out, or as the workshop manual indicates, just push it out one corner using your feet without having taken the trim off. Cut the seal or not? Suggestions based on your experience? Will the glass suddenly and entirely pop out (doing this by myself) so if so I'm envisioning having the ratcheting strap in place to prevent it from flying out. Yes...?
jmackro
Well-Known Member
Do not try removing trim first. Trim, gasket, glass all should come out (and go back in) as a unit.
IMO, the easiest way to remove the glass on an E9 is to cut the gasket with a utility knife (carpet knifes are even better) around the entire circumfrence between the car and the brightwork trim. Then pull it out with your suction cups you bought.
I think the E3 brightwork is wider and the exposed gasket thinner so it may not be as easy. I would be very skeptical about pushing it out from the inside... breaking the window comes to mind along with a scratched hood.
I think the E3 brightwork is wider and the exposed gasket thinner so it may not be as easy. I would be very skeptical about pushing it out from the inside... breaking the window comes to mind along with a scratched hood.
I had my 18 year old son help. He got inside the car, took off his shoes, and used both feet to apply firm but gentle pressure on the windshield as I slowly peeled back the lip of the gasket from the inside in the vicinity of where he was pushing, and I pushed gently with the palm of my hand as well. We started at the corner and worked across from one side to the other. Before we started, I ran a small screwdriver (or you could use a blade but I did not want to cut anything) around the outside of the entire gasket to make sure it was not stuck to the frame. We did both front and rear windshields on the Bav like this with no issues. Just work slowly and be careful. IMHO you should probably have a little help pushing the windows out.
Windshield is in
For posterity, here is my experience with the windshield.
My windshield was already cracked so I wasn't all that careful in pushing out the existing one but I could see and feel how it would not have been all that hard at all (seal was only 18 months old) to push with both feet while at the same time release the seal edge in the inside starting on an upper corner and slowly moving along an edge continuing to release the seal while pushing the glass out.
I decided to use a sealant on the glass/seal outer joint as I had experienced a leak on the lower left corner after the re-installation of the original windshield (with a new seal) by an experienced shop following the painting of the body. I used 3M's Windshield Urethane Adhesive 08693 found at most NAPA stores (http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...ld-Urethane-Adhesives/_/R-MMM08693_0006438186). Also the corresponding primer (http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...3M-Single-Step-Primer/_/R-MMM08682_0006438168) to ensure glass adhesion. Maybe overkill but I did not want to risk any leaks and it's only $19. I followed the instructions on 3M's website.
New windshield:
I'd like to know which of these codes is the date code:
Set up a table with a soft surface and get a couple of the HF double suction cups
All front trim pieces are available except for the bottom one and the two bottom corner pieces (W&N has the RHS one). All trim goes on after the seal is on the glass and before the whole assembly is then placed on the body opening. The bottom trim piece goes on first and the its top edge is fed under the seal flap:
After all trim is on turn the glass over and feed the 1/8" (~3mm) cord in.
It was at this point that I then committed to the adhesive/primer. I thought it would be less messy to apply it after everything was on. Lift up and sweep the brush with primer. Easier than it looks.
The primer and the adhesive clean off with alcohol. Get a quart of denatured alcohol and a roll of blue paper towels. I went through 3/4 of the roll. Only wipe once or twice with each piece of towel or you make a worse mess.
Before (primer)
After:
The whole assembly then gets placed on the body opening and try to have it centered left to right. Here is the key learning point for me that caused me repeat the mounting twice until I understood what was going on. At the start of the rubber seal engaging process (at the base of the windshield, when you start pulling on one of the rope ends) there needs to be a lot of pressure at the exact point where the rope is being pulled. A ratcheting strap arrangement didn't provide that for me. I stepped on the open door sill and pushed down hard with the heel of my hand as I pulled on the cord towards me, moving every couple of inches as I went. The bottom corners where tricky as the seal is complex at that point. The pressure/pull process continues all around. On the inside, the seal needs to be fully seated and I found this tool provided the leverage to easily and completely seat the seal on the inside.
I ended up bringing both ends of the cord to an upper corner but it was easier (on my third try) to do it on the straight top portion.
Thank you all for the advice, I never would have seriously thought about doing it myself had it not been for that.
For posterity, here is my experience with the windshield.
My windshield was already cracked so I wasn't all that careful in pushing out the existing one but I could see and feel how it would not have been all that hard at all (seal was only 18 months old) to push with both feet while at the same time release the seal edge in the inside starting on an upper corner and slowly moving along an edge continuing to release the seal while pushing the glass out.
I decided to use a sealant on the glass/seal outer joint as I had experienced a leak on the lower left corner after the re-installation of the original windshield (with a new seal) by an experienced shop following the painting of the body. I used 3M's Windshield Urethane Adhesive 08693 found at most NAPA stores (http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...ld-Urethane-Adhesives/_/R-MMM08693_0006438186). Also the corresponding primer (http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...3M-Single-Step-Primer/_/R-MMM08682_0006438168) to ensure glass adhesion. Maybe overkill but I did not want to risk any leaks and it's only $19. I followed the instructions on 3M's website.
New windshield:
I'd like to know which of these codes is the date code:
Set up a table with a soft surface and get a couple of the HF double suction cups
All front trim pieces are available except for the bottom one and the two bottom corner pieces (W&N has the RHS one). All trim goes on after the seal is on the glass and before the whole assembly is then placed on the body opening. The bottom trim piece goes on first and the its top edge is fed under the seal flap:
After all trim is on turn the glass over and feed the 1/8" (~3mm) cord in.
It was at this point that I then committed to the adhesive/primer. I thought it would be less messy to apply it after everything was on. Lift up and sweep the brush with primer. Easier than it looks.
The primer and the adhesive clean off with alcohol. Get a quart of denatured alcohol and a roll of blue paper towels. I went through 3/4 of the roll. Only wipe once or twice with each piece of towel or you make a worse mess.
Before (primer)
After:
The whole assembly then gets placed on the body opening and try to have it centered left to right. Here is the key learning point for me that caused me repeat the mounting twice until I understood what was going on. At the start of the rubber seal engaging process (at the base of the windshield, when you start pulling on one of the rope ends) there needs to be a lot of pressure at the exact point where the rope is being pulled. A ratcheting strap arrangement didn't provide that for me. I stepped on the open door sill and pushed down hard with the heel of my hand as I pulled on the cord towards me, moving every couple of inches as I went. The bottom corners where tricky as the seal is complex at that point. The pressure/pull process continues all around. On the inside, the seal needs to be fully seated and I found this tool provided the leverage to easily and completely seat the seal on the inside.
I ended up bringing both ends of the cord to an upper corner but it was easier (on my third try) to do it on the straight top portion.
Thank you all for the advice, I never would have seriously thought about doing it myself had it not been for that.
Excellent, thanks for posting this.
jmackro
Well-Known Member
The person I use is Rufino, of R.J. Automotive Glass, in Anaheim (he will come to your location). You can reach him at: 714 292 5811.
Rufino has installed and removed several gasketed windshields for me. He knows what he is doing.