Trailng link (front suspension) rubber bush replacement

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Have searched for previous posts and read but not certain if they were talking about same issue.

'73 3.0CS. Want to replace front rubber bushing that is at front of (front) trailing link. The bush is held in place by very large washers held on by a castellated nut. The driver's side has a tow hook facing forward.

Not certain which sections/picture applies, but the service manual shows an "auxiliary tool" which consists of a sleeve of 68 mm ID to extract, 60 mm [1 mm wall thickness] to fit [Section 31 12 531 "Rubber bush in front axle carrier - renewing"] OR a sleeve with 35 mm ID [Section 33 12 631 "Rubber bush in wishbone renewing"].

Has anyone done this?

Where might one find materials to create such sleeves?

Would an appropriately sized socket work?

Any advice?

jim
 
Suspension

Probably stuck good.

Pro shops actually burn them out with an acetylene torch! Nasty but quick.

Don't have a torch- Drilling several holes around the perimeter comes next to break some of the bond since they sometimes grow together. Then try the puller method.

To do it by the manual and you don't have the tools- exhaust tubing fittings cut apart are the closest, check the id and od; but a 2,1/2" ODs ID would work to pull ( remove).

Another trick on the install is- liquid dishwashing soap for grease- don't use oil though which will deteriorate the bushing faster.

If you live nearby a harbour freight and don't mind spending $30-35. They have a set of suspension bushing pullers.
 
You can try Lowe's or Home Depot's plumbing and electrical departments for pipe & conduit fittings - I found some there that helped me make up pullers for various bushings. That big one on the traction strut was a mother. I seem to recall having to slice a pipe coupling lengthwise that was a little too large, and using hose clamps to hold the pieces together more tightly.

Charlie
 
You already possess the sleeve required to press the new bushing in, using the threaded bolt / nut apparatus. It's your coil bracket. Seriously, the bracket holding the ignition coil is not a complete circle. Thus, it can be bent to accommodate the diameter of the busing in question and is sufficiently thin to slip behind the subframe mount. If you have a spare bracket, all the better for beating it up.
 
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