Transmission removal

Stevehose

Stevehose

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I am going to drop the tranny this weekend to replace the rear seal and shifter bushings, and inspect/improve the A/C drain hole before the summer season. the manual says I will have to mess with the clips around the shaft/release bearing. Is there something I need to look out for here or does it pull (slowly) straight out? Anything else to check out while I have it on the bench? Thanks.


Pull out gearbox slightly.
Lift spring over spherical pin collar.
When installing: Angular seal (1) must be between spheri-
cal pin and throwout arm.
00020007_z.jpg



Inside clutch operating mechanism:
When installing: Move throwout arm to correct position
with slave cylinder. Align throwout bearing. Grease guide
sleeve and groove in throwout bearing with Longterm 2.
Select a gear before attaching gearbox.
Carefully insert gearbox guide sleeve into thrust bearing.
Turn the output flange until the input shaft slides into the
driving plate. Remove the clutch slave cylinder again.
Fasten the gearbox into position.
00020008_z.jpg
 
Remember to put liquid gasket between the bell housing and transmission case or you'll do the whole thing a second time to stop the drips.
 
Buy an S or C wrench for the top left bolt. Or send the wife out shopping with the AMX cause there's going to be some cussing!

Don't know how far you want to slide down the slippery slope, but...

rear main oil seal, input shaft bearing.......... heh.. and it all started with cleaning up the calipers!:-D
 
The top photo shows the lever arm and retaining clip without the bell housing. I have used a long skinny screwdriver to reach into the hole in the bell housing to flip the spring over the flange and rubber washer as you are pulling back the transmission (which will probably just push the rubber out of the way). It should all make sense as you are lying there on your back thinking, "why am I doing this..." Getting it back together is more difficult, because the clip will keep falling off the shaft or unhook itself from the ends, or the washer gets moved, etc., and, you are working through the small opening in the bell housing. Patience and go slowing and use a transmission jack.

Are you going to replace clutch & parts, resurface flywheel while you are in there?

Enjoy your weekend.
 
Big +1 on the S-wrenches. Those things are what let you get the trans attached (or removed) to the bellhousing. Just be prepared for lots of small turns, unless you get a ratcheting set. Even then, the freedom of movement is so constrained it may not have sufficient travel to ratchet.

Also, that spring absolutely needs to come out. I remember doing this job with my father, we had all the big bolts undone, and the trans was moving, but we could not pull the thing off for some reason. I poke around the bellhousing with a flashlight, see this spring, give it a very light pull to remove it, and tell my father to "Give it a yank.". Next thing I know, he has the 4 speed partially on his chest. I move it off and we both just die laughing. To this day, whenever something like that happens, we'll joke that I just need to "give it a yank".
 
Where are the drips coming from that would require this, wouldn't that just contain them in the housing and leak out somewhere else? Front seal? Can you ellaborate on this please.

decoupe said:
Remember to put liquid gasket between the bell housing and transmission case or you'll do the whole thing a second time to stop the drips.
Click to expand...

I wasn't plannning on taking the bell housing off, just the tranny. The clutch was done by the PO not too many miles ago so I wasn't going to venture there. I don't have any release bearing noise. The slippery slope will continue with center bearing replacement (you'll be getting questions on that too :mrgreen: I'm sure), manifold painting, exhaust painting, and the aforementioned a/c drain hole. I am expecting several twists and turns as the project unfolds. The wife has been warned of impending UPS deliveries and it's time for my son to learn some big boy words!


61porsche said:
Buy an S or C wrench for the top left bolt. Or send the wife out shopping with the AMX cause there's going to be some cussing!

Don't know how far you want to slide down the slippery slope, but...

rear main oil seal, input shaft bearing.......... heh.. and it all started with cleaning up the calipers!:-D
Click to expand...

He says with just a hint of sarcasm :mrgreen: Hopefully just the tranny and no bell housing, see below for why. I have the front seal coming also, was going to consider that if not totally a PITA or above my mental and hardware resource level. Thanks for your advice.

Sven said:
Enjoy your weekend.
Click to expand...

Also, what should I use as a substitute for "Longterm 2" as I assume that is "Longgone" by now? Thanks guys.
 
Any good, long term, high temp grease. Swepco 101 Moly or similar.

Sealer- RTV black.

S or C- the top left nut on the tranny can be tough- ribs. Works well on the bell housing for later. Might drop the rear of the engine down a bit to help with alignment. I've thought about rod couplings, rods on the bottom to help align.

Since you already have a jack, harbour sells a little trans adapter or roll your own.
 
Is there something available at my local Napa et al? This project is a challenge for me and I want to try and do it reasonably well. I managed to loosen the nasty rusted/frozen manifold bolts tonight after soaking in penetrant all week (wife distracted but I now reek of Liquid Wrench) which I thought would be an issue. Will replace studs and nuts because I think I have a stud oil leak on #2 cylinder. 4 tranny bolts broken free. Tomorrow are the downpipe flanges in prep for "all in" Saturday.


61porsche said:
Any good, long term, high temp grease. Swepco 101 Moly or similar.

Sealer- RTV black.

S or C- the top left nut on the tranny can be tough- ribs. Works well on the bell housing for later. Might drop the rear of the engine down a bit to help with alignment. I've thought about rod couplings, rods on the bottom to help align.

Since you already have a jack, harbour sells a little trans adapter or roll your own.
Click to expand...
 
Update

Ok this is new ground for me as I have never pulled a tranny before - I know this is old hat for many of you. Along the way I have:

Bled and repainted calipers:
IMG-20110220-00079.jpg

IMG-20110220-00085.jpg



Pulled out the exhaust:
IMG-20110226-00091.jpg


and de-rusted, primed, and hi-temp painted (it ain't concours but it's an improvement):
IMG-20110226-00095.jpg


Rusty drive shaft:
IMG-20110226-00093.jpg


New center bearing, de-rusted, and repainted:
IMG-20110226-00101.jpg


Manifolds de-rusted, painted with hi-temp paint and cured in the oven (the wife did not appreciate the smell from this!):
IMG-20110226-00107.jpg


Finally got the tranny out:
IMG-20110226-00105.jpg


Now I will do the seals, install new shift tower mounts, shifter bushings, foam, idler arm bushing, a/c drain redo, underbody detailing, etc etc.

Well, that's 12 hours of work, coupe friends. Time for an adult beverage...
 
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I also don't see the reason for the sealing of the tranny to bell or the bell to block.
If it is leaking in there I would rather have it leak out as opposed to soiling the clutch.

When I did my 5sp change I replaced the input and output tranny shaft seals, along with the shifter seals.
DECOUPE did help me with a question I had during reassembly. The front seal plate has an irregular shape that will/may make you think it may not need to be sealed, but it does!
Not a hard/expensive job and I have absolutely no leaks after 5 years.

Alignment of the TO bearing/spring on to the front of the shaft when replacing the tranny is the most work and only time I needed help in the entire change.

Don't over think this, it will be very straight forward once you pull the tranny.

steve
 
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