Unreliable 'Chinese version' of Bosch ignition points?

[taylorcom]

Hi all,

I was looking on Amazon for points for my '72 3.0CS and came upon this listing: https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-01011-...8&reviewerType=avp_only_reviews&sortBy=recent

It looked fine, until I read the "Top critical review" which says, "Turns out, this is the poorly made Chinese version that has a short life and fails without warning."

Has anyone heard of a fail-prone Chinese version of Bosch points? (I actually did have a set of Delco points fail on me suddenly and w/o warning late one night, and I never want a repeat of that experience. The Delco points were assembled in Mexico; the Bosch points I've used for years with no problems are made in Brazil.)

Cheers,

Steve

 

[Stevehose]

For Bosch ignition parts I always seek out those made in Germany whenever possible. Usually this means NOS.

Have you considered a Pertronix or 123 Distributor to eliminate this declining quality/availability part?

 

[taylorcom]

I hadn't thought of changing out the distributor, no. If possible, I'd rather keep all parts "correct."

What I have tried is filing down my most lightly used Brazil-made Bosch points, which seems to work pretty well. One day, however, there will be nothing left to file ...

 

[Stevehose]

How about just a Pertronix to eliminate the points and condensor? Makes a big difference. Still looks close to stock if you keep the condensor but clip the wire and heat shrink tube the wires to the Pertronix.

 

[mulberryworks]

The Pertronix is a solid state breaker less point replacement triggered by a magnet that slips over the shaft. Simple to install and can be reverted at any time.
I bought this: Pertronix Ignitor 1867A BOSCH 6 CYL for a cost of $73.
The 123 Distributor is a new product which has a number of good reviews.
I used the Pertronix and got my car running after having a lot of trouble with erratic spark. Very hard to find the parts to rebuild the Bosch distributors now though I have managed to find one that was rebuilt for installation later when I have finished the body restoration.

Ian

 

[deQuincey]

i keep stock points but went the long sanctification path of period korrekt transistorzundung aus Bosch, it makes a notable difference and points will not wear again
be advised that mortification is required, noone said the path was easy, my brother in Jesuschrist
BTW to enter in this club an oszilo is mandatory ;-)

 

[taylorcom]

These are good ideas, thanks. It's hard for me to imagine a world where I don't have to r&r points every now and then, but that would simplify things.

 

[Bmachine]

Another vote for the Pertronix. Cheap piece of mind, doesn't change the dizzy and, as Ian and Steve said, completely reversible.

 

[DWMBMW]

I finally ditched the points and went with the 123. I kept them for so long not so much as a purist but more the yearly bonding experience of the traditional tune up. I finally could not justify the fact that they just start gradually degrading immediately. Besides, I still have original oil canister bonding experience every 5,000 miles!

 

[taylorcom]

It is true that "metal transfer" occurs on new points as soon as you run the car. Some manufacturers have tried to get around that my making points with holes in the middle, which was the case with the Delco points that failed on me with no warning. Instead of the car developing a gradually worsening sputter, it acted like the ignition had been turned off. I had it towed home (at 1 a.m.), installed a set of Bosch points the next day, and it ran like a top.

 

[Stevehose]

If you are going to stick with points just try to source quality nos german ones. My $.02.

After ditching my points for a Pertronix then the 123, there are still plenty of bonding experiences left in the rest of the car!

 

[zinz]

I have a pile of NOS Bosch points in the parts stash... lemme check to see if I have what you need.

Ed

 

[taylorcom]

Given that the exact meaning of 'NOS' is kind of a moving target, how can one tell where the points were made before buying them?

 

[zinz]

I have a dozen from the first two bags I grabbed...

Definitely NOS, Bosch... came from an estate of an old BMW nut

I'll mail a couple to you to try out

Ed

 

[zinz]

I cross-referenced the part #s... I have:

1237013082 for 2002s
1237013119 for Coupes and others

Not interchangeable... one is right hand the other is left hand..

PM me, Steve I'll send you two... should last a long time.

 

[taylorcom]

Cool, thanks, Ed. I'll pm my address and car info.

 

[Stevehose]

They will say made in germany on the box

Given that the exact meaning of 'NOS' is kind of a moving target, how can one tell where the points were made before buying them?

 

[lloyd]

An alternative to the stock points setup that rarely gets mentioned, is using a capacitive discharge ignition system. http://www.e9coupe.com/forum/threads/electronic-transistor-ignition-useful.10375/ This does not run the full current through the points, but rather uses them to conduct low voltage that only triggers a CD unit. Frankly, the only maintenance is keeping the distributor cam greased (similar to those fuel injection points found in Djet distributors) and keeping the points clean (grease free). Numerous contemporary manufacturers, e.g., Porsche, used them prior to the introduction of pure transistorized electronic ignitions.

I am curious exactly what makes the so-called Chinese replacement parts substandard. Do they not fit? Are the wire connections poor? Are they made of inexpensive steel that rusts or corrodes? :eek:

Virtually all ignition points since the '60s were tungsten coated to minimize metal transfer due to on-off arcing. Different points configurations were touted as a means of "cooling" them or somehow improving voltage transfer while reducing metal-to-metal transfer; however, much of the metal transfer could be controlled by using a condenser with the appropriate capacitance. Running the wrong capacitance condenser or a shorted condenser could easily result in shortened point life - no matter how well the points were made. Then there were points with a moving arm that seemed thinner and lighter presumably to lighten the load and limit wear. Similar to valve springs, points were also made with different spring tensions, to prevent bounce for various high revving engines. Claims were made that these "special" point sets might be more susceptible to wear or premature failure. Yet despite addition tension, rubbing blocks made of plastic, phenolic resin, or even wood might last a lifetime if properly lubricated. The same is true with the only other moving part, that is, the integral post upon which the ignition points pivot to open and close.

 

[taylorcom]

What made the points fail is a good question. I can't really see why a set of points would work perfectly one minute, then fail completely and w/o warning the next. But it happened to me once w/ the Delco points I mentioned. When I looked at the failed point-set, there was no visible problem. But all it took was a new set of Bosch points and all was well again.