W&N complete gasket set for engine

Wladek

Wladek

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Hi Guys,
want to ask if someone is using engine gaskets from Walloth&Nesch?
If yes - what is your opinion about it's quality? Are these Reinz, Elring etc. mixed sets or just completely unknown brands, or unbranded?
The price is rather good, when they have them on sale, so i am considering of the purchase.

And one more thing - what do you think about Elring 1,8mm headgasket (for 3.0 injected)? Is it good?
Thanks!
 
wallinelli is always a joy to run with, they are sort of a one stop thing, like LIDL
when you are looking for really good products do you go LIDL or you choose other sources ?
i would put goetze gaskets in my M30, but that is probably a question of taste...
 
deQuincey said:
wallinelli is always a joy to run with, they are sort of a one stop thing, like LIDL
when you are looking for really good products do you go LIDL or you choose other sources ?
i would put goetze gaskets in my M30, but that is probably a question of taste...
Click to expand...
That's why i asked DQ, thanks for reply. I can buy Goetze or Elring head gaskets, oil pan gaskets, valve cover gaskets separately. The only value for me in W&N set is the rest of small gaskets (as i pay more for delivery if order in different places than they are worth together).
 
You need to check the head to see if it can be resurfaced. If it can be, then you will typically need a +0.3mm head gasket to keep correct cam timing. So, that is 2.05 mm or 2.1 mm. Also, you should replace all the timing chain hardware, including the crank sprocket and the oil pump drive chain and sprocket. You will need to use a dremel to cut the old crank sprocket out. I cut along the keyway channel. cut as far as you can, then use a cold chisel to split the rest. It will split and then can be removed.

To install the new sprocket, the manual says to heat it in oil. 350ºF is a safe temp. When the sprocket is ready, use a can of air duster and turn it upside down, then shoot the crank with it. The sprocket will slip on so easily!
 
Vern said:
You need to check the head to see if it can be resurfaced. If it can be, then you will typically need a +0.3mm head gasket to keep correct cam timing. So, that is 2.05 mm or 2.1 mm. Also, you should replace all the timing chain hardware, including the crank sprocket and the oil pump drive chain and sprocket. You will need to use a dremel to cut the old crank sprocket out. I cut along the keyway channel. cut as far as you can, then use a cold chisel to split the rest. It will split and then can be removed.

To install the new sprocket, the manual says to heat it in oil. 350ºF is a safe temp. When the sprocket is ready, use a can of air duster and turn it upside down, then shoot the crank with it. The sprocket will slip on so easily!
Click to expand...
I am not 100% sure, but OEM gasket mounted in injected CSI's/CSL's (3003 cm3) was ca. 1,7-1,8mm.
Thanks Vern for additional information.
 
Last edited:
Today received answer from Mr. Walloth about cylinder head gasket:
exact thickness is 1.95mm
brand "GLASER" Dana Company from Spain.
So maybe you @deQuincey heard something about their products quality?
 
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