Wacky Windows

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Jamison

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Perplexed. 1972 3.0 CS

Three weeks ago my power windows worked well.

This weekend only the passenger front window worked ever so slightly. I need to use my hands to help it upwards . No movement from other windows.

Checked fuses and sure enough fuse 9 was blown.

Installed new fuses in 8 and 9 .

Yet only passenger front working again.

No red reset button under dash like I’ve read in other forums.

Checked switches (unlikely given they all wouldn’t fail at once ) - those look clean and good contacts.

Is there a relay I should investigate? If so where is it?

Other diagnostics to resolve this issue?

Strange
 

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So, windows are a knows issue with our cars. You should indicate in your post which e9 you have as there are differences (like the circuit breakers in the later coupes).

Are you attempting to move your windows with the car off or running? When off your car will have about 12.5 volts available to operate the window motors; when the engine is running you will have something between 13.5 and 14. If you have been doing your tests with the engine off, start the car, wait two minutes and try again.

One of the primary things people do to address this is to clean the window tracks. Old grease gets hard and dried out and actually inhibits the movement of the windows. You can sometimes get some temporary help by lubricating the tracks with oil, but the long term fix is a good cleaning and fresh grease.
 
Hello

Thank you for response. 1972 3.0 CS.

I experience same result with car running on roadways.

Odd that all windows but one simply went inoperable same time.

Cleaning certainly solid advice.

James
 
Ohmess said:
So, windows are a knows issue with our cars. You should indicate in your post which e9 you have as there are differences (like the circuit breakers in the later coupes).

Are you attempting to move your windows with the car off or running? When off your car will have about 12.5 volts available to operate the window motors; when the engine is running you will have something between 13.5 and 14. If you have been doing your tests with the engine off, start the car, wait two minutes and try again.

One of the primary things people do to address this is to clean the window tracks. Old grease gets hard and dried out and actually inhibits the movement of the windows. You can sometimes get some temporary help by lubricating the tracks with oil, but the long term fix is a good cleaning and fresh grease.
Click to expand...
Can the tracks be accessed and cleaned simply by removal of door card?

How does one remove the circular knob for triangular window section?

I don’t see that detailed in Repair Manual.

James
 
on the backside of the circular vent window knob there is a hole - if you use a small allen key, push the small leg through that hole and pop out the plastic disc in the knob - that will give you access to the screw that holds the vent window knob on. do NOT try to pry the disk out from the front side as all you will do is to tear up good pieces that you will then have to replace.

you can clean the tracks to some degree within the door, but you will have to move the window to get to the parts blocked by the window hardware. the item that you will need to clean / regrease the most is the motor itself. you will have to remove the motor to be able to clean + grease it.
 
Jamison said:
Perplexed. 1972 3.0 CS

Three weeks ago my power windows worked well.

This weekend only the passenger front window worked ever so slightly. I need to use my hands to help it upwards . No movement from other windows.

Checked fuses and sure enough fuse 9 was blown.

Installed new fuses in 8 and 9 .

Yet only passenger front working again.

No red reset button under dash like I’ve read in other forums.

Checked switches (unlikely given they all wouldn’t fail at once ) - those look clean and good contacts.

Is there a relay I should investigate? If so where is it?

Other diagnostics to resolve this issue?

Strange
Click to expand...
check your wires + connections to be sure that the wires aren't cracked and the grounds are good. you also should pull the shifter console panel out to check on the wires at the switches. there are numerous reasons for blowing the fuses, but the most common is simple things ... remember power goes from the battery, through the switches to get to the window motors. a lot of juice flowing through those switches. you can also swap switches to see if the switch is bad.
 
Ohmess said:
So, windows are a knows issue with our cars. You should indicate in your post which e9 you have as there are differences (like the circuit breakers in the later coupes).

Are you attempting to move your windows with the car off or running? When off your car will have about 12.5 volts available to operate the window motors; when the engine is running you will have something between 13.5 and 14. If you have been doing your tests with the engine off, start the car, wait two minutes and try again.

One of the primary things people do to address this is to clean the window tracks. Old grease gets hard and dried out and actually inhibits the movement of the windows. You can sometimes get some temporary help by lubricating the tracks with oil, but the long term fix is a good cleaning and fresh grease.
Click to expand...
Ohmess' message is spot-on. The "sardine can" motors that drive the e9's power windows are barely powerful enough when everything is working perfectly. Once the lubricant on the tracks begins to harden due to age, the windows stop working. It isn't surprising that your's died after a period of non-use; exercising the windows tends to keep the lubricant from becoming glue.

So yes, once you get the door panels off, try oiling or spraying silicone onto the tracks. Free the windows by manually turning the ribbed nylon link between the motor and gearbox, and work them up and down a few times. But yes, the long term fix is a good cleaning and fresh grease. A better fix is adding relays to deliver more voltage to the motors and/or to convert to the more powerful motors from an e28; lots of threads here talk about these modifications.

Futzing with the power windows is a rite of passage for coupe owners.
 
We are also assuming you have a healthy battery and charging system. As others have suggested you "should" have 13-14 vdc with car running, may want to check power at switch and battery to make sure charging system is healthy.
 
rsporsche said:
on the backside of the circular vent window knob there is a hole - if you use a small allen key, push the small leg through that hole and pop out the plastic disc in the knob - that will give you access to the screw that holds the vent window knob on. do NOT try to pry the disk out from the front side as all you will do is to tear up good pieces that you will then have to replace.
Click to expand...
You don't need to remove the round vent window knob to remove the door panel.

Pull off the access hole cover on the door and put a finger on the gear on the window motor and flip the switch up and down. If you feel the motor moving slightly then it is stuck and usually can be freed by helping the gear along.
 
Howdy - my new ride's windows worked perfectly on day one of having the car. On day two, they stopped working! I charged to the battery last night to 100% just to sure it was full after the long voyage, and tried again today. The front two windows do nothing, no clicking of relays. Nada. The left rear window will go up and down once, then not work. The right rear window doesnt work at all. For both rear windows, i depress the window switches, both from the center console and rear seat switches, and I hear clicking. But they dont move. For two front windows, no clicking or any sound. How do I diagnose and fix this? My car is a Euro 1971 build sold as a 1972. Thanks for your help!

(Also - not sure if this matters, but I put the car away with the windows all the way up. Not sure if this matters (I think not)). Plus this a 4 year old restoration with all new motors and, switches, and relays. So I am perplexed to say the least!
 
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I do believe that power runs through the center console switches to the rear so as mentioned, the center console is one place to look.

I can anticipate the final question which is what to lubricate the window tracks with and there is a discussion here but many have our own favorites and I don't believe there is one standout. One thing I will not use is new black grease since I cannot tell when it is filled with grime.

Having rebuilt all my windows, I can tell you that our doors are horrible wrt being sealed from the elements, the gaskets only do so much. Water and dirt are a given....and the dirt gets into the grease and the cycle repeats.
 
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