Water Transfer Printing (Hydro Dipping) 'Wood' parts anyone?

Markos

Markos

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Hi Folks,

I know there was a recent thread on wood laminates, so I'm covered there. I figured this was a worthy stand-alone discussion, given the multiple opportunities that may exist on a particular vehicle.

My wood will need to be replaced. I thought about just molding the parts and replicating in fiberglass. Then having them hydro dipped or buying an inexpensive dipping kit. For those that are unfamiliar with the process, it's relatively inexpensive and most modern cars use the process for trim.

This makes sense for 'drivers'. You have the initial investment on molds for the trim, digital scans, or a 3D print file. After that, it's just the cost of hydro dipping the parts, which should be around $300.

Discuss! :)

Here is a classy example:
37-3.jpg


Looks nice to me!
wg_10.jpg


Burl wood wheels?
custom-dipping_l4.jpg


Camo Dash?
new%20web%20pics%20005.jpg


How it works:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pKuXyeAGzEU
 
Last edited:
Stevehose said:
Probably cheaper to send to Bela and have him refurb/refinish to perfection.
Click to expand...


I paid $1075 incl shipping, a "steal" if you ask me....I cant imagine what a fine wood work shop would charge state side
Bela will give you a credit if you send him your old cores
Click to expand...

Not to diminish their fine work - but how do you figure?
 
I have my drivers and passenger doors that have some delamination and some spots where there are chips of wood missing. Can Bela work with them ? The rest of my wood trim is in pretty good shape. Can I just order two pieces from Bela instead of the entire set ?
 
Stevehose said:
I figured $300 for the one piece, if not, never mind.
Click to expand...

Well if you watch the video, the sheets are large. If I were to do this effectively, I would adhere all of the window trim pieces together, and dip them at the same time. The setup time is the same for big pieces and small, so it's in your best interest to dip multiple things at once. It's not like chrome where you just dip things in solution. The shape of the part is important.

Many people have their firearms dipped (camo, carbon fiber, etc.). I'll have to look into if those parts are all done at once or if them somehow fasten them together.
 
With modern wood finishes your 40 year old dashes and doors will last a lifetime if not gotten wet or too much sun.

I understand what you are trying to achieve but I just feel this finish looks fake. Too polished and plastic looking.

Not trying to downplay or give you a hard time just stating my opinion.

With that said I am an award winning woodworker and plan on doing my dash and doors myself.
Luckily I have a vacuum bag to suck all that beautiful veneer down.
Not sure what wood I am going to use or even what finish but it will be a 2 part modern lacquer type finish that I can make mirror shiny, satin or flat.

This is a solid walnut poster bed I built about 10 years ago. The headboard is 4 way booked walnut burl. All the molding is solid walnut I made to match a antique walnut dresser I had.
The posts are two pieces of walnut glued together to a 3 inch size at base and then cut 8 sided on a table saw with a special jig I built to hold them. The posts were the hardest part.
Even the slats for the mattress are solid walnut. I turned the finials on a friends lathe.
Gave up the woodworking to work on my cars.............. at least they move and make some noise:razz:
 

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the polish is a clear coat. You can also get a satin finish. I get why nobody would want to do this. If one could pick up all new trim that looked good for under $500, they may feel differently (those people with flaking veneer or delaminated plywood).
 
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