Waxoyl??

I was looking for it, when I found this instead. Works VERY well. Pretty expensive though, the 5l of waxoyl is a lot cheaper. Not sure how you apply it though as a liquid, there must be some kind of squirter? I used about a can and a half of this stuff for an E9.

(The $25 can comes with a short straw like WD-40, the $35 can comes with a 3ft long one that you can reuse forever)

https://www.amazon.com/KBS-Coatings...&qid=1490841613&sr=8-3&keywords=cavity+coater
 
I used waxoly on all my 2002's and E3's back 30 years ago, and it worked great. In some cases it even encapsulated a bit of existing rust and stopped further deterioration (hood skin seams). There is a special sprayer that makes application easier, probably common to most anti rust cavity treatments. I had a autobody schutz gun that worked ok. If you warm it up it flows better and penetrated more quickly. It's pretty viscous stuff once it is applied and dries out a bit but ultimately stays gooey.I think this is important for it to stay in place over time. No experience with the other stuff.
 
In Canada (home to extreme rusting) we no longer use these types of rust proofing.
Probably good on new metal, but I'd probably go more with the aerospace approach using a light oily mist product applied yearly.
The two biggest ones here are called Rust Check and Krown rustproofing. Been using them for 30 years.
The worst thing ever created for guaranteeing your Canadian car rusts was Ziebart.
 
I wonder how POR 15 when applied properly would have fared in that test? I coated some mild steel parts I use on my roof rack three years ago and it has held up well despite being in a salty environment all winter.
 
it may have done well on the test but probably doesn't wick up into nooks and crannies like these.

Nicad said:
I wonder how POR 15 when applied properly would have fared in that test? I coated some mild steel parts I use on my roof rack three years ago and it has held up well despite being in a salty environment all winter.
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