Weber carbs question

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Dean

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I have dual 32/36 dgev Weber carbs. My car has always had a rough idle. It was tolerable barely, but dying at stop lights was getting really old. So I decided to jump in and try fix it myself. In my diagnosis I could see there was fuel coming out of one of the carbs main jet at idle. Anything one is doing they both should do. I reasoned that is not a good thing. Which went along with my thought the car has always smelled too rich to me. So I bought a rebuild kit thinking it was the float setting or the needle valve had issues. being that the fuel level was too high forcing it through the main. I took it all apart cleaned it, replaced the kit parts, including needle valve, set the brass floats at 41mm and 51mm as per a rebuild book I bought. Put it all back together. It started right up and seemed to run better until the choke disengaged. then it was exactly the same problem fuel coming through the main of one carb. rough idle. It's a pretty steady stream of fuel. definitely not a drip. I rebuilt them both and I checked to make sure both carbs were jetted the same and they were. I did them both the same, if one leaks they both should leak, I would think. The idle is set at about 1000-1100 any less and it dies. One more thing, the fuel does not come through when the car is not running and the electric fuel pump is running. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you, Dean
 
I'll bet the carbs are WAY out of sync..... does the idle mixture screw on the other carb react at all?

First, disconnect the throttle linkage....
Then back both idle speed screws out until they don't touch at all. turn them both in till they just touch and add 1 full turn.
Seat both idle mixture screws and back both out 3 turns.
Now start the engine and set the idle speed close to what you want by turning both idle speed screws in or out the same amount.
Next adjust each idle mixture screw for maximum rpm. Remember move both screws the same amount each time.....
Then reset the speed as needed. Remember to adjust the same amount on each carb.
You will need to iterate a couple times to get the speed right.

Now shut the car off and hook up the rear carb linkage. Adjust the front carb link so the front carb is in sync with the rear carb. They should both come off the idle stop screw together.

Let us know how it goes...
DaveG
 
My car has a pressure regulator! Too much Pressure might be the problem???

My car came with Webers and has a round pressure regulator with a stock Fuel Pump...

Just a thought...
Maybe the needle valve/float are not strong enough when the engine is running (vibrations). Also todays fuel might have a lower SG and the float might not be pushing as hard on the needle?



My car also ran HORRIBLE (almost un-driveable) when I got it 3 weeks ago. Then I changed the jets (main/air correction) with jets I had that are close to what it needs and it is a different car! Still could use a slightly leaner air correction jet and it should run perfectly.
 
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Per DaveG, check that your throttle butterfly on the leaking carb is not too open, this can cause the symptom you describe if the float itself is not leaking.
 
Float level still too high.

leaking.

hanging up.

fuel pressure too high ( No more than 5psi. Stock is 2,1/2 or 3.)

Since you say it doesn't leak fuel w/ choke on.... you can't be far off. Lower the float a bit more.
 
Float level and needle are OK if it doesn't dribble with the engine off and the electric fuel pump running.
DG
 
Float switch

I tried switching the floats thinking maybe there was a hole in it or something i couldn't see. Condition stayed with the original carb body with the leak. I ran out of time. I'll Try DaveG's suggestion disconnecting the linkage and starting over with the adjustments Monday eve. I'll also get a pressure gauge. Thanks guys for all your suggestions, Dean
 
I was thinking about this a little more...

It is possible that as someone mentioned the gasket is not sealing but the fuel level in the bowl would need to be very high for that to be a problem...
 
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