Weird starter noise

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Gernstetter

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Dumb question, every so often my starter makes a loud noise akin to starting an already running car, any thoughts? Electrical connection issue? Need new starter? Flywheel problem (hope not)?

Thanks for your expertise in advance
 
Sounds like the solenoid is sticking in the out position. Not sure you can get any lube in there without removing the starter. In that case, since this is one of the top 3 PITA jobs on a coupe, I'd consider a complete replacement with the smaller, higher torque starter.
 
Gernstetter said:
Dumb question, every so often my starter makes a loud noise akin to starting an already running car, any thoughts? Electrical connection issue? Need new starter? Flywheel problem (hope not)?

Thanks for your expertise in advance
Click to expand...



A lot of things can cause or contribute to loud noises. At the risk of sounding glib, most long distance diagnoses require more specifics to have much value. FWIW::roll:

Your hearing is probably a good indication that something is either loose or worn. The first thing you might consider doing is making sure your starter is properly installed. Even the best new starter can make bizarre noises if it is loosely mounted. It's not supposed to happen, but fasteners can loosen over time.

The next suggestion would be to remove the starter and examine the flywheel ring gear and the starter itself. There are other ways of peeking at the ring gear teeth, but by removing the starter you get to look at both gears. If you understand how the starter moves, worn parts are fairly obvious with the device in your hands, on a bench or on the ground. Bench testing the starter can be accomplished in the driveway or most red front auto supply stores.

In a nutshell, the starter's moving parts are typically supported by self-lubricated bronze/brass bushings. These are replaceable, with the obvious implication that they can and do wear. Worn bushes can lead to sloppy engagement of the starter drive gear with the flywheel ring gear teeth, similar to with the starter loosely mounted.

Gear teeth are certainly strong, but they also wear with repeated use. When a flywheel ring gear develops worn or missing teeth, this can result in a starter gear that does not engage the flywheel and occasionally overspins or speeds up. This poor gear engagement may also cause gnawing or grinding sounds. Similar things can occur when a starter pinion gear is too worn or damaged to make decent contact with a new flywheel ring gear. So too, if a starter bushing is worn, new unworn gears may not properly mesh - and - a starter pinion gear may not properly disengage from the flywheel ring gear - and this may cause noise.

The above is by no means a comprehensive explanation regarding starter noise. For that, you might try the Maestro ( deQuincey :smile::smile:).
http://e9coupe.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10353

Good luck.


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More reading: http://www.e9-driven.com/Public/Library/BMW-E9-Manual/pages/en/12410200.html#refertoc



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I had an intermittent starting problem for a while. Starter would spin and make noises but would not turn over engine. Tried three different starters but same problem. Turns out the ring gear on the flywheel (which is pressed on) was loose causing it to spin but not the flywheel. Solution was to weld the ring gear to the flywheel at five points through the access cover.
 
BP1 said:
I had an intermittent starting problem for a while. Starter would spin and make noises but would not turn over engine. Tried three different starters but same problem. Turns out the ring gear on the flywheel (which is pressed on) was loose causing it to spin but not the flywheel. Solution was to weld the ring gear to the flywheel at five points through the access cover.
Click to expand...

Thanks to all, ordered a new rebuilt starter, will inspect flywheel teeth, hopefully not the flywheel
 
The relay is triggered by the wire that was previously connected to the solenoid. The power wire on the kit (Red) connects where the positive battery terminal connects on the starter.

If you look at the picture of the kit. Blue wire is the relay trigger. Red is power. Yellow is ground. Black is relayed power and connects to the solenoid switch.

I bundled it up and here's what it looks like on my tii:



 
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My recent experience with a non-op starter required removal, which is as mentioned one of a short list of real humbug jobs on an E9. Rear intake manifold and carb came off.

In my case the pivot between the solenoid and starter pinion gear had stuck. I shot some cleaner then some lube in there and worked the bendix by hand quite a bit. When it would bench test okay I put it back in. Don't want to do that again.

A new/rebuilt starter is a rather gross approach considering that (at least in my case) all that was needed was cleaning and lubrication. You or your paid assistant will still have to R&R the starter.
 
I bought the Bosch kit for $28 off eBay and put it on today. Very easy to install with supplied wiring diagram and no wires need to be cut, thay either fit together with spades to the solenoid and ignition wire or bolted on the starter for voltage source or block for ground.

I had a vintage Hella can relay with mounting bracket lying around so I used it instead of the supplied relay, this requires relocating the pins in the socket to comform to the old style layout but it's easy to do.

Works flawlessly. So does it make a difference? It sounds livelier when cranking but if this is wishful thinking on my part at least I don't have that amperage going through the old ignition switch wires anymore.

I mounted the relay to the PS bracket:

IMG_0818.JPG
 
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Upon further review, starter is definitely quicker with more life and the engine starts in less time.
 
steve? whats that purple/blue item

Down low in the pic?
 
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