Wheel Alignment Specs
- Thread starter Paulaner
- Start date
Thank you sir
Thank you sir.
Hi everyone,
I just got my front wheels aligned, after I changed the 4 shocks, 4 discs and pads, front wheel bearings, front struts top mount, and finally 4 tires.
When I first brought it to the alignment shop, they couldn't do it because both outer tie rods were completely rusted. So I changed them both too.
I did check if the rest of the joints were in good conditions, and they were (unless I missed something), so nothing else replaced.
The alignment shop then performed the alignment. I got the perfect 0.07°. on both sides, but the car still pulls to the right. and not just a tiny bit, but enought to ennoy me.
After analyzing their report, the REAR right wheel is at -0.02° (just a little out of tolerance) and the rear left is at 0.10° (within tol).
I know there is no possible way to adjust these toe angles, except installing some specific bushings, or other devices.
But my questions are :
1. Do you think those figures in the rear wheels are enough to deviate the car?
2. For those who did it, does adding those specific bushings on the subframe joints wherever it is possible bring any positive corrections?
Also, front figures for camber and caster are out of telarance, and quite a lot :
camber : FLW -0.38° and FRW -0.58° (tolerance being 0 to 1°)
caster : FLW 8.33° and FRW 8.15° (tol being 9.1° to 10.1°)
Given that I changed myself the front shocks, I know that once you insert the 3 threaded rod into the 3 holes on wheel well, there is almost no play to make any adjustment. So I don't understand how I could have put that much offset on camber and caster. I assume the car had those figures even before doing my replacements. So :
3. For those who did it, does adding specific camber plates on the top mounts bring any positive corrections?
I am not necessarily a perfectionnist, but I would like my car to keep a straight line on straight roads...
Any comments or suggestions welcome.
I just got my front wheels aligned, after I changed the 4 shocks, 4 discs and pads, front wheel bearings, front struts top mount, and finally 4 tires.
When I first brought it to the alignment shop, they couldn't do it because both outer tie rods were completely rusted. So I changed them both too.
I did check if the rest of the joints were in good conditions, and they were (unless I missed something), so nothing else replaced.
The alignment shop then performed the alignment. I got the perfect 0.07°. on both sides, but the car still pulls to the right. and not just a tiny bit, but enought to ennoy me.
After analyzing their report, the REAR right wheel is at -0.02° (just a little out of tolerance) and the rear left is at 0.10° (within tol).
I know there is no possible way to adjust these toe angles, except installing some specific bushings, or other devices.
But my questions are :
1. Do you think those figures in the rear wheels are enough to deviate the car?
2. For those who did it, does adding those specific bushings on the subframe joints wherever it is possible bring any positive corrections?
Also, front figures for camber and caster are out of telarance, and quite a lot :
camber : FLW -0.38° and FRW -0.58° (tolerance being 0 to 1°)
caster : FLW 8.33° and FRW 8.15° (tol being 9.1° to 10.1°)
Given that I changed myself the front shocks, I know that once you insert the 3 threaded rod into the 3 holes on wheel well, there is almost no play to make any adjustment. So I don't understand how I could have put that much offset on camber and caster. I assume the car had those figures even before doing my replacements. So :
3. For those who did it, does adding specific camber plates on the top mounts bring any positive corrections?
I am not necessarily a perfectionnist, but I would like my car to keep a straight line on straight roads...
Any comments or suggestions welcome.
My coupe is ‘close’ to spec and pulls right, it is the Pirelli CN36. Your front specs are fine and can not be adjusted.