I love the detail of this answer but I still don't understand it 100%. If someone wants to draw some sort of diagram for me explaining, offset, width, lips etc I would gladly receive it
Sure! Offset is the delta between the centerline
of the wheel and the mounting surface. So a CSL racecar with super deep wheels will
have a negative offset. An BMW e30 with mo
wheel lip has a positive offset.
Wheel diameter is irrelevant in the calculation,
but does play a role in fitment when you have struts, springs, and other bits in the way. It shouldn’t matter since the overall diameter of a tire stays the same, but in practice there can be clearance issues.
Wheel width is all relative. A 7” ET0 wheel is a perfectly centered wheel. So is an 8” ET0 wheel. So what is the difference? Well, and 8” wheel is 1” wider, or .5” wider on each side
of the center line. That is about 12.7mm.
What this means is that you can take your existing wheel, with a known offset and use
it as a baseline for your fitment.
If you have a 14x6 ET11 wheel, and you want to fit a 15x7 ET30 wheel, you can do the math. First, a 15x7 ET11 wheel would be 12.7mm closer to the strut, because the wheel is 1” wider. But you don’t want an ET11 wheel, you want ET30. So now add 19mm, which is the difference between ET11 and ET30. So 12.7mm + 19mm = 43.7mm.
Now go outside and crawl under your e9. Measure the distance between your whee lip and the strut. Do you have about 1 3/4”
or 43.7mm. If you don’t, your 15x7 ET30 wheels likely won’t fit.
Spacers:
Any narrow wheel (7” or less) with a
high offset will be spacer-friendly. Try the math again. A factory CSL wheel is 14x7 ET11. You know it fits. The 15x7 ET30 wheel is the same width, but 19mm closer to the strut due
to the ET30 offset. That means you can fit a 19mm spacer on the hub before the outer lip is back to a factory 14x7 ET11 distance from
the fender. This calc is easy because
the wheel widths are the same. If the width is different, just add or subtract the extra 12.7mm.