Who here has Waxoyl'd (or similar) their coupe?

Stevehose

Stevehose

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I am considering investing in a schutz gun and going at my car with waxoyl in the cavities. From what I have read the stuff in aerosol cans doesn't atomize or penetrate like when shot via compressor. I want to protect my car as much as possible, it hasn't seen rain in several years but if I drive it 800 miles to Oktoberfest this fall chances are it will.

Questions:

1. Who here has done this and can you offer advice?

2. Other than the obvious places (rockers, etc), where are the spots that need to be drilled to access hidden cavities, if so where? Details please.

3. If the front fender seams are blasted from underneath (that silt collecting channel along and above the wheel running front to back), will it reach the top of the fender mounting area under in the engine compartment where you always see rust coming through in pictures or is this channel accessed (if possible) from another point?

4. Once treated, should this fender channel be sealed off so no water can get back there?

Thanks.
 
Last edited:
Steve,

I recently treated my rebuilt shell - completely stripped at the time. I initially tried the Wurth wax product (in the 1 liter cans) using a schutz gun, compressor and 3M spray wand. This was totally unsatisfactory for me. The stuff did not disperse well. It seemed too thick. Perhaps I should have diluted it (but none of the instructions referenced doing this or what to dilute with). Instead I used the Wurth Cavity Protection Spray 0893 081 (in the aerosol cans). I linked together 4 of those red straws using shrink tubing to create a flexible wand about 20" long (with an extra piece at the joints). I then cut three notches into the side of the straw near the end and plugged the end hole, this dispersed the spray pattern in several sideways arcs instead of just out the end. It worked very well and I was able to reach all the cavities. I went through 4 cans. Consider spraying the following:

Frame rails, inside upper fender, back edge of front fender (from wheel well), upper nose clip (under badge area), bottom of nose clip, the cave areas, up through the weep hold at the top of the front strut mounts, inside the 'A' pillars, all areas of roof assembly and pillars (the sunroof car has a complex roof with lots of seams), all along the rockers (accessed from inside - you should see the stuff drip out the rocker drainage channels), inside the hood and trunk lids, the full perimeter of the inside of the door (especially along the bottom), area at the base of the front window by the pillars, trunk seams, rear bumper brackets inside of trunk, underside seam of tank and spare tire surround, diff. body support frame, and many more places that do not come to mind. It seemed that every time I was done with an area, I would find yet more seams and cavities to spray.

Picture of my set up attached.

Good luck.
 

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I used the dinitrol products. They well a hose with a brass end which shoots out at various angles. I find it works very well.
 
I have always been surprised that the rust preventative systems common in Canada are not generally known in the US. (lets face it, the worst corrosion problem in the modern world is in Eastern Canada, especially Quebec.)

Anyway, I have had great success keeping my cars corrosion free by using an annual treatment by either Krown rustproofing or Rust Check. (Both are National rust treatment franchises). the main benefit of rust check is that it is the opposite of an undercoat. Undercoating is fine till the moisture gets underneath it, then it accelerates corrosion by trapping moisture with air present. The yearly products are a very lightweight oily system that creep into the crevices. They drip out a bit all year, so keeping the car clean becomes more work. They are great for protecting wiring and connectors from corrosion as well. I applied this stuff yearly on my cars for the last 27 years. My 1995 Corrado looked like new underhood until it was stolen a couple of years ago. We drive through a salt slurry from December till April.
 
For what it's worth a UK mag rated Dinitrol the highest but I can't find a USA source of supply, lot's of positive postings on it also, however Waxoyl is available here. Which CorrosioX did you use - regular, avaition or heavy duty?


thehackmechanic said:
I use "Rust Extinguisher," now called CorrosionX. I posted this in a thread on 2002faq last year; there are some responses there. The big problem is that no one will do a controlled test with their car (treat different parts with different stuff, then drive it through nasty salty winters). I certainly won't.

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component...hlight,/sid,17e365d09de97487d03d2774daabdb44/
Click to expand...
 
For what it's worth here's my 5 cents worth

Down here in New Zealand we can get a product called un sented "Fish oil" (which I assume you get when you give a fish a good squeeze!) It comes in spray cans and my panel man tells me its as good as any of the other fancy anti rust products at a fraction of the cost, it's quite thin so it really gets into all the seams

Also

There is a company in Australia-- http://www.lubetube.com.au/stock.html
that sells a good looking spray tube product for aerosol cans that I intend on getting soon and trying out

however--BEWARE-- there is also an "Adult Entertainment Site" with the same name that will more than likely pop up when you search, I suggest you just copy and paste into your search bar from the http address above

Steve
 
Wax in cavities

We here in Germany have been doing this for many-a-years. Infact even the car manufactures have been doing this, some better that others. My personal tip is to insure that the 'wax' is heated up till it is pretty much the same consistancy like engine oil and then sparyed with a compressor gun and a lonf hose and nossel so one can get to the rear end of the 'schweller' (the aresol cans dont have enough pressure to get to all the deep corners, they are good for the doors, for example)). Very important to make sure that the car is well wrapped up due to the fine wax sparay that invaribly tends to settle on the whole car, a real pain to getrid off! Infact BMW has a scheme for the E9 as to exactly where all, and in which cavities, the wax should be sprayed. Here in Germany we have companies that specialise in this particular (messy) job. Done correctly after a restoration or for cars still comparatively rust free, this brings a long new lease to its life! An absolute must be for countries and states where it rains and snow and salt ALTHOUGH I think no normal E9 owner will drive a good condition E9 in bad weather. Still a good thing to do, even if very messy when done properly. SERVUS. Keshav
 
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