why is my coupe smoking ?

Christopher

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i've just started driving my csi again after she's been laid up for several years and restored - a total of 5 years off the road.

i guess i've put about 300 miles on her recently (after a tune and valve clearance adjustment) - she's running sweet. problem is if i accelerate fairly firmly at a speed when i take my foot of the throttle i notice a big cloud of white smoke behind me. i take my environmental responsibilities as seriously as i can as a coupe driver and always 'tut' when i see a smokey vehicle on the road - now it's me !

what might this be down to ? - i need to fix it quick !
 
Have you checked the coolant hoses and their connection points? (including the one waay in the back of the engine bay) After that, the main thing that comes to mind is a head gasket failure. Is it a stock CSi engine?
 
Hate to say this but white smoke suggests coolant, so you have a chance of:
1.. Failed cylinder head gasket
2.. cracked cylinder head

However that said you say you only notice it when you take you foot off the throttle this suggests:
1.. valve stem seals, usually blue smoke from burning oil
2.. sucking in brake fluid from a leaking servo.

Suggested checks things to look for

1.. compression test
2.. colour of your spark plugs ," damp " with oil or water
3.. oil in the coolant
4.. coolant in the oil - build up of "mayonaise" on the oil filler cap / in the breathers
5.. Higher than normal coolant pressure, when cool, take the cap off
6.. run at idle with cap off coolant tank, lots of bubbles all the time?
7.. loss of brake fluid
8.. eating oil

Malc
 
Pure white smoke would indicate an internal coolant leak -- but I think it would be constant and not just on decel. Does the smoke have a bluish tint to it? If so, its indicative of oil burning on deceleration which is common on a 3.0 with a few miles on it. Unfortunately, its usually caused by worn rings, so there's no quick fix. Yes, I realize oil burning on decel is usually indicative of bad valve seals, but on these cars its typically the bottom end. I've made that mistake more than once.
 
If you didn't rebuild the engine and it's been sitting idle for 5 years, I wouldn't lose any sleep just yet. Put another thousand miles or so on it, see if things don't get better.
 
Yes, I realize oil burning on decel is usually indicative of bad valve seals, but on these cars its typically the bottom end. I've made that mistake more than once.

:?: :?: :?:

It would take some serious abuse to kill an M30 bottom end before the valve seals give up.
 
similar problem

I have a '72 CS w/ approx. 52,000 miles. It had been running beautifully until about 5 weeks ago when I noticed white smoke when I started it up.....I mean a LOT of smoke. It would stop (the smoke) after I drove it for a few moments...and other than that was running great.

This happened 2 or 3 times.....then it wouldn't start at all & made a terrible screeching noise when I turned the key. The engine seemed to shake quite a bit too. It was scary...especially for someone like me who doesn't know sh** about cars.

Of course my wife was wondering why I wasn't driving my favorite toy throughout the beautiful fall foliage season here in New England; I've been too scared to admit to her that its broken AGAIN - and I'm scared to find out how bad the situation really is. The only good thing is that the car wouldn't be on the road now anyway because of the bad weather.

Tell me the truth doctor; how bad is it?
 
Yes, I realize oil burning on decel is usually indicative of bad valve seals, but on these cars its typically the bottom end. I've made that mistake more than once.

:?: :?: :?:

It would take some serious abuse to kill an M30 bottom end before the valve seals give up.

Yep. That's what I used to think. My old '71 2002 used to smoke bad -- but only on decel. Had great compression, no funny noises -- nothing. I pulled the head and the cylinders looked fine with no perceptible wear, etc. I thought it MUST be the valve seals and spent several hundred dollars to have the head rebuilt. Put the head back on and it smoked just as bad as before.

Same thing with my current 3.0. No smoke whatsoever unless I pushed it above 4,500 rpm, then it would blow tons of whitish-blue smoke as it decelerated. The head was just rebuilt before I got it and it smoked the same way. I didn't bother with this one and just built a 3.5. However, I did take the 3.0 apart to check it out. The head is fine -- I'd use it on another car as is. The crank, rods, bearings are all fine to. Cylinders are in great shape with little to no wear. But the pistons were shot. The rings are bad and the ring lands are worn out. Works okay when you're just cruising around, but as soon as you push it -- smoke everywhere.

Let's also keep in mind that nearly every stock 3.0 head has cracked and been replaced by a later model. Thus, it may not be accurate to assume that the block has the same mileage as the head.

So, I'm not suggesting that smoking on decel can't be caused by leaking valve seals -- it can -- but based on my personal experience its probably the rings. Don't believe me? I bet Carl Nelson will tell you the same thing. We've discussed this subject more than once.
 
smoke

but what really scares me is that my car won't start. It makes just an awful screech when I turn the key. I'd be happier if it would start - white smoke & all.
 
Brooks,
Sounds like your starter motor has died?
could of had a look :roll:
Shame I was in New Hampshire just over a week ago seeing friends in Francistown who don't "do" cars
MAlc
 
screeching, no start (long, bad news you didn't want)

Well, I'll be the devils advocate here.

The dense white smoke on startup, that clears away, sounds like a bad head gasket, or coolant leak into the combustion chambers caused by a corroded water passage in the cylinder head. In either case you're looking at, oh, maybe 1500 clams IF you can source a good used head.

The screeching is because your cylinder(s) are filled with incompressible water, thus the engine can't turn over. The screeching is the starter pinion trying desparately to engage the flywheel ring gear, which latter isn't moving. So they're grinding away at each other.

Despite your claim to only modest machanical capability, what needs to be donen to assess the situation is fairly simple. You need to remove the spark plugs and look for little beads of water near the electrode. Presence of water confirms the coolant leak into the cylinders, and that the cylinder head has to come off.

BMW has provided pretty good tools for this simple job. The tubular spark plug wrench that came with the car works well. It's cross drilled so you can turn it with the screwdriver they also provide in the trunklid toolbox.

Once the plugs are out, take the center wire out of the distributor, and stand next to the rigt fender and have someone turn the key in the ignition and crank over the engine for about five seconds. Whussssh! out from the leaking cylinder comes a mist of air and water. Maybe put a layer of newspaper on the inner fender to preserve the wet-spot evidence. If you're lucky, there will be no water in the expelled gases, suggesting that the worst has not happened. It's my bet, though, that you'll expel some water.

About all you can do wrong is no remember to mark the sparkplug wires, use masking tape and a magic marker, number then from one to six, frontn to back, so you put them back in the correct order. Don't forget the center wire on the distributor.

Now, if you get water expelled when your lovely assistant cranks the engine, the cylinder head has to come off. Likely someone on the list will have another.

I think, since you used the car very little, you'll find that one or more water passages in the head have corroded to the point where they are leaking coolant into the combustion chamber. Heck, this was the case with the last 2002 I was given. I started it up, and standing at the rear bumper, the steam/smoke was so dense I couldn't see my feet. A couple hours later, the cause was obvious: coolant passages on three of the four cylinders had corroded into the chambers.
 
One of my Csi cars hasn´t been driven much over the last 6 years. Today I noticed the blue smoke on decel and called my trustworthy mechanic. "Not to worry. Valve guides not tight. Very common after long periods of idleness. Can improve after some proper driving". I.e. more or less as some of the above posts suggest. I won´t plan for an engine overhaul quite yet.
Again, thanks to all knowledgeable boardmembers!!!
 
...I agree with pmansson, sitting will dry out the valve seals or maybe dried deposits on your scraper rings, allowing oil to enter the cylinder.

Just drive it as if it were a BMW, it will cure.

k
 
White smoke or Bleu?

The color of smoke is quite telling. So is the color of your tailpipe deposits. If the tailpipe is filled with condensation, the answer is as clear as Honolulu says it is - coolant is getting into your combustion chamber/s. Are you constantly having to add coolant from your radiator?

On the other hand, if the smoke is "oil-related," and you see smoke when you take your foot off the throttle pedal, valve seals and guides are a good guess. Short of pulling the head to inspect, you can always try the heavier oil routine. I suppose STP or other viscosity "improvers' might be worth a shot.

There is still another possibility, albeit remote. Stuck rings.

I inherited a car that sat for as many as ten years. The engine turned over and after getting the oil pressure up, it started. But it smoked and had very little compression in two cylinders. I removed the head and found nothing wrong. I pulled the pistons and lo and behold, the oil rings and one compression ring were stuck solid to the piston. I think removing the other problem piston actually freed the rings. I ended up bolting everything back together with new head gaskets and everything returned to normal. Had I known stuck rings were the problem, I probably would have run ATF or Rislone through the engine and things would have freed themselves naturally.

Good luck.
 
Tell tale white "smoke" is steam

sounds like a cracked cylinder head, failed head gasket or corroded section between cylinders has allowed coolant/water to enter combustion chambers--take your choice--highly doubtful that driving it--that is if it would start--will fix it!

I agree with Tony as "white smoke" at start-up is not oil burning. The most likely reason for non-start--water/coolant has filled one or more cylinders and we all know compressing water is a bit of a challenge.

Sorry to report my best guess--but--"it's off with the head of your favorite friend" to verify the clearly described symptoms of your problem. Don't wait or delay in opening the patient as corrosion wil start in the affected cylinder bore(s)--ask me how I know!

Have checkbook ready as it's obvious from your statement that this is a job for an engine "Pro".
 
I am not sure if this is a good idea or not, but here goes.

Following BluMax's observation about stuck rings (a real possibility after sitting for 5 years), I recall that when I pulled the head off my 635 Euro, I had a lot of carbon on the piston tops. I squirted some B12 Chemtool onto the piston tops and let it sit overnight. The next day I scraped the carbon off with a plastic spackleing knife as if it were paint that had been hit with remover (as in zero effort). If you give it time to work, it's pretty amazing stuff.

So, if the rings are stuck, you might try removing the plugs, spray some chemtool in the cylinders making sure to try to get it sprayed uniformly around the bore. Let it sit overnight, and then fire it up. Run it for a while and then change the oil

I suspect using ATF or some other de-sludge additive might also do the trick.
 
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