Window Channel Grease
- Thread starter Wobdog
- Start date
I just use axle/long term moly grease
Same here with axle grease. More important than what grease you use is getting all the hardened old stuff out.
Not sure if it is available in the US, but I use Molykote 4500 G. It is not based on oil/grease, as some of these greases solidify (crosslink) to form a sort of glue; the same that happens with old fat; which won't even dissolve in soap anymore then.
Molykote is suitable for plastics, rubbers, alu, steel and all their mixes.
These new types of greases are usually white and use of Teflon (PTFE)
www.dupont.com
It's about the only grease I use in my garage, and professionally.
Molykote is suitable for plastics, rubbers, alu, steel and all their mixes.
These new types of greases are usually white and use of Teflon (PTFE)
MOLYKOTE® G-4500 FM Multi-Purpose Synthetic Grease
Aluminum-complex-thickened, uses white solids and PTFE as solid lubricants. Also, H1-certified through NSF for incidental food contact.
www.dupont.com
It's about the only grease I use in my garage, and professionally.
Not sure if it is available in the US, but I use Molykote 4500 G. It is not based on oil/grease, as some of these greases solidify (crosslink) to form a sort of glue; the same that happens with old fat; which won't even dissolve in soap anymore then.
Molykote is suitable for plastics, rubbers, alu, steel and all their mixes.
These new types of greases are usually white and use of Teflon (PTFE)
MOLYKOTE® G-4500 FM Multi-Purpose Synthetic Grease
Aluminum-complex-thickened, uses white solids and PTFE as solid lubricants. Also, H1-certified through NSF for incidental food contact.
It's about the only grease I use in my garage, and professionally.
that one is THE GREASE !!!
apart from other amazing propoerties, IS WHITE !!!
when erik enlightened me
I buried my entire stash of black dirty moly
going back to your problem, if your windows are running difficult, it is likely due to old grease that is gumming up.
I've just removed my window tracks, and the system is actually quite robustly engineered (It uses a spring loaded bearing sled) and it has the ability to run really smooth.
here are some pics of the right door that i just removed from my car. Just adding some addition lube on top of the gummed grease woulnd't have made any difference; the spring loaded wheel bearing sled was completely solidly gummed up. It acted as a sled, with all 4 bearings being jammed.
Also the track was full of gum, in some places up to 10 mm think (close to half an inch).
Herewith some pics to show the dillemma:
Gummed up & locked bearings:
Cleaned by hand firstly to get rid of chuncks of old grease with a screwdriver, and followed by a toothbrush:
followed by cleaning with ultrasonic bath to get the insides of the bearings cleaned:
and lubed with Molykote
same done with the vent window mechanism;
and funny enough, when you turn it back and forth, it starts to run more smooth with every turn, as the lube starts spreading and forcing itself through small openings., even pushing old the older yellow grease in front of the new grease.
I've just removed my window tracks, and the system is actually quite robustly engineered (It uses a spring loaded bearing sled) and it has the ability to run really smooth.
here are some pics of the right door that i just removed from my car. Just adding some addition lube on top of the gummed grease woulnd't have made any difference; the spring loaded wheel bearing sled was completely solidly gummed up. It acted as a sled, with all 4 bearings being jammed.
Also the track was full of gum, in some places up to 10 mm think (close to half an inch).
Herewith some pics to show the dillemma:
Gummed up & locked bearings:
Cleaned by hand firstly to get rid of chuncks of old grease with a screwdriver, and followed by a toothbrush:
followed by cleaning with ultrasonic bath to get the insides of the bearings cleaned:
and lubed with Molykote
same done with the vent window mechanism;
and funny enough, when you turn it back and forth, it starts to run more smooth with every turn, as the lube starts spreading and forcing itself through small openings., even pushing old the older yellow grease in front of the new grease.
Last edited:
Another benefit of the Moly Kote 4500G is that it is Halal compliant. !
Ok, didn't expect that! But I did use it in my coffee machine!
Sounds Tasty! Just wondering, must you remove the whole window assembly to adequately clean and lube this area? I don't want to open a can of worms and break or lose anything?
Getting the parts back in, and having the glass well aligned is the difficult bit.
I still need to gut my left door, so I'll have a look tomorrow or this weekend to see if perhaps you can remove only the bearing block and clean the rails in-situ.
I think the bearing block slides out the top, but not sure if it will be able to do so while still inside the door.
There is one black rails near the lock side, and a chromed rail that is part of the triangular window.
The window winder pushes in the middle under the glass, it does have a litte horizontal slider, but there isn't usually any solidified grease there.
If you have electric front windows, then the innards of that gearbox could be sticky inside as well.
#thejoyofanoldcar
I still need to gut my left door, so I'll have a look tomorrow or this weekend to see if perhaps you can remove only the bearing block and clean the rails in-situ.
I think the bearing block slides out the top, but not sure if it will be able to do so while still inside the door.
There is one black rails near the lock side, and a chromed rail that is part of the triangular window.
The window winder pushes in the middle under the glass, it does have a litte horizontal slider, but there isn't usually any solidified grease there.
If you have electric front windows, then the innards of that gearbox could be sticky inside as well.
#thejoyofanoldcar
Last edited:
Just checked; you can't get just the sliding block out, as it indeed needs to exit at the top of the gutter, which is blocked when installed in the door. See pics. Edit- see next post: it can't go up; it must go down to exit the rail. And that doesn't fit when still in the door.
Cleaning the inside of the track will also be a chore, as the opening of the gutter is not facing you, but facing the front of the car.
Attachments
Last edited:
Just disassembled my door and I have to correct my message above: the black rail only has an opening at the bottom.
The top is blocked by the welded on tab with the 2 m6 studs. So the track with bearing block needs to come out the bottom, meaning you have to take out the rail.
I think this is doable however with the rest of the door mechanisms still in place; locks, glass and window winder.
During my dismantling yesterday I had the glass out already, but as the glass is located behind the rail, the rail likely has enough room to just slide out the bottom of the door when the glass is in the up position.
The glass will not fall down, as long as you keep the center arm connected to the glass (the 2 13mm nuts )
The top is blocked by the welded on tab with the 2 m6 studs. So the track with bearing block needs to come out the bottom, meaning you have to take out the rail.
I think this is doable however with the rest of the door mechanisms still in place; locks, glass and window winder.
During my dismantling yesterday I had the glass out already, but as the glass is located behind the rail, the rail likely has enough room to just slide out the bottom of the door when the glass is in the up position.
The glass will not fall down, as long as you keep the center arm connected to the glass (the 2 13mm nuts )
Attachments
Last edited:
Oldbmwcoupes
Well-Known Member
Erik, great thread and info, thanks for sharing in ever Dutch detail! I’ve not dug into this part of my car yet. However, this extra imagery gives me more confidence to tackle the job and have a successful outcome.
Bedankt
mark
Bedankt
mark