new to the site... have a 72 3.0 CS that is having some window problems. All except one are not functional. Does anyone know a good BMW expect in the north Jersey/NYC area. Rather not spend too much time and money fixing something that really isnt adressing the real problem.
Window issues
- Thread starter matt7
- Start date
When I can't fix something myself, I like this shop in Englewood NJ, Autosport Performance. Ask for Ty he's a real nice guy!
http://www.autosportnj.com/
http://www.autosportnj.com/
Sometimes the window is up too far and needs to be backed off a bit. Your car should have pop out plugs on the door card. When removed a white(ish) plastic gear will be revealed. Using a window tool or your finger, roll the gear until the window opens a bit and try again.
Have you checked fuses?
Does your car have the red breakers under the dash near the steering column?
Have you checked fuses?
Does your car have the red breakers under the dash near the steering column?
probably first tell us if all of them are electric
new to the site, but new to the car ? did those windows ever functioned ?
first check fuses
if fuses are ok, get a friend to operate the ints while you stare at the front lights, check if when the switch is operated the lights fluctuate, if yes, the engine is trying to work but it is blocked (different causes)
if not, the engine is not working, check cables, connections,...
blocking cqn be due to extreme position of the glass, dirty in mechanisms, or dry corrupted grease in the gears
stan, if the car is 72 probably no red breakers below steering wheel...
New to both the site and the car. Always looked at them but finally pulled the trigger on one.
All the windows are electric and were working when the car left the west coast. Fuses are good. I will try the light trick later when i get home for sure, thank you. will report back
sreams
Well-Known Member
Another thing...
My windows were all slow (even slower than the "normal" slow", and the rears barely moved at all. It turned out that three of the four motors and electrical connections were actually fine, but that the tracks were all gummed up. It's a good idea to remove them and grease up the tracks. With the rears out, it initially took all of my strength to get them to move in the tracks. After greasing them up, they are quite easy to move, and the motors are -much- happier.
Although... I have since replaced them with rear E28 motors for more speed.
-Scott
My windows were all slow (even slower than the "normal" slow", and the rears barely moved at all. It turned out that three of the four motors and electrical connections were actually fine, but that the tracks were all gummed up. It's a good idea to remove them and grease up the tracks. With the rears out, it initially took all of my strength to get them to move in the tracks. After greasing them up, they are quite easy to move, and the motors are -much- happier.
Although... I have since replaced them with rear E28 motors for more speed.
-Scott
And if you don't do this, very soon the gear in the gearboxes will strip since it is only made of plastic.
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probably the quickest e9 windows on earth...;-)
and with the original motors !
click in the image
Whooooa....
DQ, that was about 2.25 seconds. That's ridiculous. Those are the original motors?
My tracks are all hospital-clean and freshly greased and my rear windows can't get up or down faster than in seven seconds. The front ones take even longer.
What (if any) work did you do to the motor itself? Did you replace any old wire?
DQ, that was about 2.25 seconds. That's ridiculous. Those are the original motors?
My tracks are all hospital-clean and freshly greased and my rear windows can't get up or down faster than in seven seconds. The front ones take even longer.
What (if any) work did you do to the motor itself? Did you replace any old wire?
this is the whole job, link below,
you can see the original motors, but yes there are some little differences in the electric installation, enjoy
http://www.e9coupe.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11320&page=4