Window project on e9...

ECA90049

ECA90049

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New at working on cars, but game to tackle my e9 window issue. Neither consistently go up and down. Right now they're stuck down. And when they do work which is rare, they're really really slow (which I can live with). I want to solve this but could use some advice, direction on where to start, and what to double-check. So far I've replaced the battery and checked fuses. Still no movement on windows. Hoping I get an as good direction on my windows and I did on the headlight switch issue from you guys (my headlight switch now works thanks to this forum)...
 

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most likely the problem is the old grease in the tracks
One of my windows would not move at all
When I took them out and looked at them it was obvious, the old grease turns to a weird hard substance, almost like hard wax
Cleaning those tracks was a character building exercise
It is certainly a bit of work, you have to take the door panels off and the windows out
The window mech has a lot of adjustments, slotted bolt holes, mark where they were very carefully
 
There should be several threads with details on this site. The details are important especially on how to safely remove the window regulator...

When I did this, the improvements came from the following items:

1) Replaced window switches, old ones had significant carbon deposits and heated up when under load.
2) Cleaned and re-greased tracks.
3) Removed and tested the gearboxes. Replaced one of them.

The obvious shortcuts are:

a) rear window switches and gearboxes should have seen little use because nobody ever rides in the back, swap fronts with rears, especially for gearboxes which are NLA.
b) gearbox problems may be mechanical (deformed armature or worn mechanism) or lubrication. I have not attempted to re-lubricate one.
c) window switches can be opened and cleaned as long as there is no damage to the contacts.

Some people have improved over the original design by adding relays and using E28 motors (eliminates gearboxes!).
 

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Bosch Window Sunroof Motor cleaning refurbishing tutorial

Hello Everyone! Today want to show you cleaning/refurbishment process of Bosch window motor (old type till 1973), the same motor is used for rear and front windows and also for sunroof (might have stickers GOLDE, but it 100% same motor). Don't know, maybe someone here on this forum did same...
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I'd start off with checking the voltage at the motor when the switch is activated to see what kind of power you are getting. Then I'd be removing the window mechanisms out the car and give them a very thorough clean. Remove any old grease, remove the motors and inspect. Reassemble and install back into the car, make sure all contacts etc are clean. Also not a bad idea as others have mentioned to clean up the contacts in the switches as full power runs through the switch. See how it goes after that, should be much better but e28 window motor mod is excellent and a few write ups on here how to do it. If its a late car it'll be plug and play.
 
I swapped around switches and I got the same response so I looked elsewhere. Turned out all my switches just had some contact issues.

DO NOT remove the tracks, clean in-situ. To achieve window alignment is a real PIA. Even if you mark all attachments and try to return to their original location, your windows will be off.
 
Arde said:
There should be several threads with details on this site. The details are important especially on how to safely remove the window regulator...

When I did this, the improvements came from the following items:

1) Replaced window switches, old ones had significant carbon deposits and heated up when under load.
2) Cleaned and re-greased tracks.
3) Removed and tested the gearboxes. Replaced one of them.

The obvious shortcuts are:

a) rear window switches and gearboxes should have seen little use because nobody ever rides in the back, swap fronts with rears, especially for gearboxes which are NLA.
b) gearbox problems may be mechanical (deformed armature or worn mechanism) or lubrication. I have not attempted to re-lubricate one.
c) window switches can be opened and cleaned as long as there is no damage to the contacts.

Some people have improved over the original design by adding relays and using E28 motors (eliminates gearboxes!).
Click to expand...
Thanks will keep this all in mind when I start. First I see I need to buy the tools to remove the door panels....
 
nosmonkey said:
I'd start off with checking the voltage at the motor when the switch is activated to see what kind of power you are getting. Then I'd be removing the window mechanisms out the car and give them a very thorough clean. Remove any old grease, remove the motors and inspect. Reassemble and install back into the car, make sure all contacts etc are clean. Also not a bad idea as others have mentioned to clean up the contacts in the switches as full power runs through the switch. See how it goes after that, should be much better but e28 window motor mod is excellent and a few write ups on here how to do it. If its a late car it'll be plug and play.
Click to expand...
Thanks, will keep this in mind as I start the process...
 
bavbob said:
I swapped around switches and I got the same response so I looked elsewhere. Turned out all my switches just had some contact issues.

DO NOT remove the tracks, clean in-situ. To achieve window alignment is a real PIA. Even if you mark all attachments and try to return to their original location, your windows will be off.
Click to expand...
Good tip, I will not remove the tracks. Thanks...
 
Also, pay attention to the rubber stops that limit the travel of the window when you put it down. Mine were crushed and allowed the window to travel too far down. The motors BMW used in our cars are very low torque motors, and with the longer travel it becomes even more difficult for them to start the window moving.
 
It would be a good idea not to remove the tracks, if possible, it can be very difficult to align them
Mine were out for a repaint anyway
On the other hand I would think cleaning them in place would be very difficult, I had to soak mine in solvent, blast with cleaners, etc.
There would be a gallon of junk in the bottom of the door

I found some rubber stops with the right thread (on McMaster I think), but the threaded part is limited in length, maybe you could use a threaded coupler
 
I had to trim the rubber part from the McMaster ones, they rubbed against the mechanism and made an annoying sound, otherwise they work fine.
 
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