Wood steering wheel redo

americium

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The steering wheel in my 2800 is in ok shape except for the finish is flaking off. Here it is:

AC817E50-1B68-4454-B0AC-10B79BBC1594.jpeg


I was thinking of pulling off as much of the finish as I can, then sanding the rest. Then use some UV resistant clear on it, I read where someone used marine spar varnish. Would that be a good route or is there a better way?
 

Krzysztof

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Hi. I would be very delicate. The steering wheel is not full wood as Nardi but there is a veneer on it. It can brake easily and peel off.

It is fine as long as only the transparent paint is peeling off.

Need a lof of care.

Isn't your black plastic cracked as well?
 

eriknetherlands

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I've done 3 of these wheels myself. The wood is just 1 mm thick ,as mentioned above. Sanding is a chore, and risky to get sand through spots. (Amhik)
I've found that the best way is to use the side of a chisel (it's 90 degree, but sharp) to get the old lacquer off. Grip the chisel with two hands, and scrape towards you. If the old paint is well adhered, it just scrapes small curls as in the first pic. If the paint has delaminated, (as your wheel seems to be, and the top wheel in my last pic), it chips into small pieces. Wear safety glasses, as it chips off the lacquer are sharp and fly everywhere.

I used a wood pin in a vice to hold the wheel, with a screw in the middle to increase the diameter of the wooden pin when screwing it in, effectively jamming the wood into the internal splines of the wheel. It blocks the wheel in rotation.

i filled any cracks int eh black plastic with 2K epoxy and sanded it smooth. then painted it black afterwards. It does loose that original bakelite colour and gets that glossy fresh paint look, but al least the cracks are gone

The wood is simply soo nice when it's freshly painted!
 

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adawil2002

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I've restored & re-veneered a few steering wheels. I use ProPrep brand scrapers to remove the finish same way @eriknetherlands does with a chisel. Need to be patient & very careful. Takes at least 3 weeks from start to refinishing with 6 coats of Spar Varnish or Polyurethane.

Unrestored Wheel.jpg
Veneering_02.JPG
Finishing_02.jpg
Restored_01.JPG
 

bavbob

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I did mine using chemical stripper (I use BIX, use it outside, the safer strippers really don't work well), I followed with 0000 steel wool. I used 2K clear coat. If you freeze the can between uses, you can get a few weeks out of it rather than a few days. 0000 between coats. I had to faux in a few areas as the laminate is super thin.

I do not like using Marine Varnish because it is hard as hell so will not tolerate a wide temp range before starting to crack, learned this the hard way.
 

Markos

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I’m glad you included the name as everyone’s definition of a safe stripper is different.

I did mine using chemical stripper (I use BIX, use it outside, the safer strippers really don't work well), I followed with 0000 steel wool. I used 2K clear coat. If you freeze the can between uses, you can get a few weeks out of it rather than a few days. 0000 between coats. I had to faux in a few areas as the laminate is super thin.

I do not like using Marine Varnish because it is hard as hell so will not tolerate a wide temp range before starting to crack, learned this the hard way.
 

Krzysztof

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Have any of you repaired the wheel in which the veneer is peeling? I mean it is still in one piece but it is taking off so the internal foam/plasitc is visible?

Which glue can do the job here?

Is there any trick to make the veneer flexible again?

Is it worth to redone it from scratch by removing old and start the whole process? How this should look like?

Probably I'm asking too many questions but all of them are boiling in my head o_O
 

americium

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Appreciate all the info with pictures! I was looking at the SW in more detail and yes, Krzysztof, there are cracks on the spokes. I will need to take the advice and fill and sand those as well.
A5AE3A77-486D-4275-B4A3-76E1B0F663E0.jpeg


Here is the other blemish on it:
ADC6DA63-1670-4BF1-A596-E923D0A60FDE.jpeg


Also, the varnish or whatever it is called has been baked to the point where a lot of it might just pull off. After that I will see how bad it’s stuck on there and try the different approaches mentioned to see what works the best for me. I wonder if a heat gun would help with this

What is the 2K epoxy and paint that is talked about? Is that a brand?
 

HB Chris

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2K is paint In a spray can that has a catalyst that you charge into the paint, once charged it should be used in 24 hours.
 

eriknetherlands

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with regard to the chrome flaking of the center pad, these do come up for sale once in a while, for about 25 euro/usd. Easy to replace when you lay your hands on it. so just park it in the back of your mind, and keep an eye open in the parts section.
 

bavbob

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Pleeze don't try a heat gun. Unless you are facile, the wood will burn and you have no room for sanding it down.

I used this, multiple coats and 0000 wool between each, then a tac cloth. You can put it in the freezer to get a few weeks out of the can rather than a few days.

71RU6DeaSHL._AC_SL1500_.jpg
 
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