Yikes! Gremlins.
- Thread starter 2002turbo
- Start date
Hoses can look ok on the outside yet still be disintegrated inside. Sounds like you found a stuck piston anyway but keep hose in mind if you continue to struggle.
If your caliper pistons are rusty toward the outside end, make sure to clean them up and get the entire piston smooth. Then, when you reassemble, put a little anti-seize on the exposed end of the piston to prevent future rust.
And I for sure replace the brake lines. And when you do so, do not leave the rear hoses disconnected for any length of time. When the hoses deteriorate, they can allow small globs of rubber into the brake system. These can be bled out, but If the rear lines are left open, those blobs will migrate into your rear proportioning valve and stay there. Once they get in there the valve needs to be replaced, and the valves are hard to find.
As to control arms - this is where I got mine: http://www.bimmerdoc.com/parts-finder/bmw/e928003-0cs-control-arms/
Lastly, as to your fuel leak, I would scrutinize the fuel pump install from end to end. It sounds like the pump was installed by cutting into the hard lines on the left side of the car. This allows the pump to be mounted down low, minimizing the potential for vapor lock. This is how I installed mine.
And I for sure replace the brake lines. And when you do so, do not leave the rear hoses disconnected for any length of time. When the hoses deteriorate, they can allow small globs of rubber into the brake system. These can be bled out, but If the rear lines are left open, those blobs will migrate into your rear proportioning valve and stay there. Once they get in there the valve needs to be replaced, and the valves are hard to find.
As to control arms - this is where I got mine: http://www.bimmerdoc.com/parts-finder/bmw/e928003-0cs-control-arms/
Lastly, as to your fuel leak, I would scrutinize the fuel pump install from end to end. It sounds like the pump was installed by cutting into the hard lines on the left side of the car. This allows the pump to be mounted down low, minimizing the potential for vapor lock. This is how I installed mine.
"Wishbones" (or control arms) are avail on Ebay, left side only; on rogersTII (pricey); and from Carl Nelson as Ohmess points out, "POR". WN does not have any. Since my ball joints feel quite tight, I am going to replace the boots only and have found some of the correct dimension (I hope) in an obscure country. I ordered 10 pair in case anyone else needs some. Vintage cars are not driven much and the rubber goes before the ball joint is worn out. Seems like a shame to replace the entire "wishbone" for a $10 piece of rubber. I will say it's not easy to get the ball joint apart.
I figured out how to turn brake rotors on my lathe, using the hub as a mandrel. You have to remove one stud and indicate the hub before remounting the rotor. Turning cast iron is messy but I don't trust the typical brake shop to take just enough off, I fear they will whack the rotors.
Will get this back together when the rubbers arrive. At that time I will get it up on a lift and figure out what they did to the fuel lines. I suspect vapor pressure from summer temps caused a hose to pop off, because I removed and blocked the fuel line with a spent ctg case when I ran the carbs dry last fall. I have done this on other vehicles without a problem. I guess there is no breather on an EPA fuel system?
I figured out how to turn brake rotors on my lathe, using the hub as a mandrel. You have to remove one stud and indicate the hub before remounting the rotor. Turning cast iron is messy but I don't trust the typical brake shop to take just enough off, I fear they will whack the rotors.
Will get this back together when the rubbers arrive. At that time I will get it up on a lift and figure out what they did to the fuel lines. I suspect vapor pressure from summer temps caused a hose to pop off, because I removed and blocked the fuel line with a spent ctg case when I ran the carbs dry last fall. I have done this on other vehicles without a problem. I guess there is no breather on an EPA fuel system?
If I am filling up I manually pump, don't trust the cutoffs except when I am putting in less gas than the tank holds. Even then I am wary. And never top off.
Steve
Steve
Gas overflow mystery solved. When the prior owner went to Webers, the return line from the carbs was redundant. They just removed the entire return up to the junction near the left rear wheel and left that open. When I filled up, the shutoff on that particular gas pump allowed the gas to come up the filler neck before shutting off, gas was now above the disconnected line elevation so the excess poured out onto the slab. We put a plug in that line. I think the tank still breathes through the plastic bottle in the trunk.
Replaced wishbone boots ... if anyone wants to try the same thing (wishbones are NLA from any source right now as best I can tell), I have extra rubbers, they are very close to the originals and use the original wire clip.
Replaced wishbone boots ... if anyone wants to try the same thing (wishbones are NLA from any source right now as best I can tell), I have extra rubbers, they are very close to the originals and use the original wire clip.
Well another request for online diagnosis .. took car for a long drive yesterday, another 2 tanks of fuel. This after I had skimmed the left front rotor to remove moderate warpage, pads were still fat so not replaced. I did install metal anti-shimmy pad backing plates from WN; also replaced rear pads both sides and bled all brakes. Pulsation is now gone. But car pulls RIGHT under braking; and I note it tends to drift right on a straight road as well. I did not alter any suspension geometry. Could this be a symptom of the turned surface finish on the left rotor vs the polished/well used finish on the right? That was my initial thought but the problem persisted throughout my drive (I did not try any hard braking, and most of the distance was on rural, uncongested roads).
Then I noted my exhaust is a bit sooty. How does one lean out the Webers? Is it a matter of changing jets? I ran 87 no ethanol with some sea foam and octane booster mixed in on the outbound; and shell 89 with ethanol on the return.
Then I noted my exhaust is a bit sooty. How does one lean out the Webers? Is it a matter of changing jets? I ran 87 no ethanol with some sea foam and octane booster mixed in on the outbound; and shell 89 with ethanol on the return.
I would use your IR thermometer to see if the left brake is fully engaging. Or you could jack the car up and get an assistant to gently apply the brakes while the wheel is spinning. Do you see signs of the pads bedding in on the rotor in that side?
If you had the joint apart to replace the boot, alignment could be affected. Also tire pressure being low on one tire can cause a car to drift that way.
If you had the joint apart to replace the boot, alignment could be affected. Also tire pressure being low on one tire can cause a car to drift that way.
Did you bleed all the brake calipers? How old are your rubber brake lines? Each weber has an idle mix screw at the base of the carb (not the throttle plate linkage screws). Start with these first. With the engine idling turn a screw in until the engine stumbles (use an rpm gauge also) then open it back up until the engine bogs or loses rpm. Turn the screw back in between the 2 positions where the idle rpm is highest. Repeat for the other carb. Take it for a drive and report back.
IR gives readings left to right very similar in front. The binding problem has gone away. If there is still a problem, the right rear seems to be dragging a bit with the new pads (old rotors and calipers). It's about 10F hotter than the left. But after normal driving nothing hotter than about 190F. I suppose the left front may be sticking in the open position now, but I fail to see how that could happen. It was sticking in the closed position (dragging) prior. A lot of hydraulic pressure in the closing direction would overcome any stickiness.
I did take the joint apart (at the outboard knuckle) to replace the boot but there is no apparent adjustment that I recall that might affect alignment, and no felt play in the suspension. In any case, I just separated the joint, cleaned and greased the knuckle, replaced the boot. It was a bit of a beotch to get it apart. And tricky to retighten as the ball joint turns until you get the taper seated. I will get in there again and check that it's still tight.
I will check tyre pressure. No visual indication of one side being low. I meant to do that before setting out but did just a visual.
I did take the joint apart (at the outboard knuckle) to replace the boot but there is no apparent adjustment that I recall that might affect alignment, and no felt play in the suspension. In any case, I just separated the joint, cleaned and greased the knuckle, replaced the boot. It was a bit of a beotch to get it apart. And tricky to retighten as the ball joint turns until you get the taper seated. I will get in there again and check that it's still tight.
I will check tyre pressure. No visual indication of one side being low. I meant to do that before setting out but did just a visual.
If car pulls right the driver side brake hose could be restricted and that caliper is not being actuated.
Right front 27, left front 28, I equalized at 28 and will see if that makes a difference. I don't think that little difference is enough to cause a noticeable pull to the right. The lever arm depends on the rotor and caliper geometry, not on the tyre effective diameter.
Looking at the rotors with a flashlight, the left front has more pronounced annular machining rings, the right front is finer. Will have to get it off the ground to see if front left is engaging to the same degree, but imho the line would have to be seriously blocked to restrict brake fluid flow to that extent. I do plan to replace all 6 rubber hoses as a next step, where does one obtain those at a reasonable price in the USA?
Looking at the rotors with a flashlight, the left front has more pronounced annular machining rings, the right front is finer. Will have to get it off the ground to see if front left is engaging to the same degree, but imho the line would have to be seriously blocked to restrict brake fluid flow to that extent. I do plan to replace all 6 rubber hoses as a next step, where does one obtain those at a reasonable price in the USA?