Hi All -- I am considering a coupe that is located in Denver. I'm new to the coupe and am posting to ask if anyone here might take a look at it and give me their thoughts. I'd hate to jump on a plane only to find obvious problems.
Car Eval Help
- Thread starter Ohmess
- Start date
You could try Dan Koturov, aka coupeguy.com, up north in Ft Collins
He just had a hip surgery, so he may not be available.
Scott
The board is really good at analyzing pictures and getting within 5% of the answer.
If you get a link from the seller we are on the case.
From ten coupe pictures we can even profile the owner and tell you for example if the owner is a Sagitarius. We are that good.
If you get a link from the seller we are on the case.
From ten coupe pictures we can even profile the owner and tell you for example if the owner is a Sagitarius. We are that good.
And the brand of the last tankful of gas and the meal the owner ate just before they took the photo's!
Hi All - Thanks for jumping in. The car is listed in the classified ads here: http://www.e9coupe.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14950
I was hoping I might get into an e9 for a fair bit less than this, but the mods are in keeping with my tastes.
I spoke to the seller and he seems like a good guy. I can't get to Denver to actually see it for at least a week, so I am seeking input.
I was hoping I might get into an e9 for a fair bit less than this, but the mods are in keeping with my tastes.
I spoke to the seller and he seems like a good guy. I can't get to Denver to actually see it for at least a week, so I am seeking input.
The compression numbers are wrong by 60-80 psi..
If this is an m90 engine you should see 9.3 x 20 = 180 psi
If this is a 10:1 euro spec dirty engine you should see 10 x 20 = 200 psi
If this is an m90 engine you should see 9.3 x 20 = 180 psi
If this is a 10:1 euro spec dirty engine you should see 10 x 20 = 200 psi
Prices
This car seems very reasonably priced for what it is. Considering a repaint alone cost $10k or more, if the car is all done its a bargain. My coupe will be easily $10k more ($45k) before the body is finished.
On the other hand, expectations can vary quite a bit on what constitutes good paint. And you may want show quality paint whereas many are happy with just shiny and are blind to runs sags, orange peel, mottling, bondo edges, sanding scratches etc.
Even something like, "everything works," is YMMV, even with a paid professional PPI. I can't tell you how often I've heard that phrase only to find a list of non-op things as long as my arm. Always followed by an equally long list of excuses about old cars and the discount given for things not so important such as turn signals and rear window defrosters.
If you are serious about spending $35k, spend $500 to fly out for a weekend trip to the Rockies.
John
This car seems very reasonably priced for what it is. Considering a repaint alone cost $10k or more, if the car is all done its a bargain. My coupe will be easily $10k more ($45k) before the body is finished.
On the other hand, expectations can vary quite a bit on what constitutes good paint. And you may want show quality paint whereas many are happy with just shiny and are blind to runs sags, orange peel, mottling, bondo edges, sanding scratches etc.
Even something like, "everything works," is YMMV, even with a paid professional PPI. I can't tell you how often I've heard that phrase only to find a list of non-op things as long as my arm. Always followed by an equally long list of excuses about old cars and the discount given for things not so important such as turn signals and rear window defrosters.
If you are serious about spending $35k, spend $500 to fly out for a weekend trip to the Rockies.
John
Last edited:
I think the car looks unique enough that it is only a question of
nailing down a price that eliminates remorse for both parties.
No opinion on compression concerns, falls outside picture review but sfdon is your guide there. And to keep my word on Sagitarius, the owner is not a Sagitarius. Stan, your turn...
nailing down a price that eliminates remorse for both parties.
No opinion on compression concerns, falls outside picture review but sfdon is your guide there. And to keep my word on Sagitarius, the owner is not a Sagitarius. Stan, your turn...
Denver is a mile high, won't that lower the reading by quite a bit?
My last E9 had a Euro 3.5 B34 and measured around 185 psi at sea level. Could the 15psi diff is related to cam differences?
My last E9 had a Euro 3.5 B34 and measured around 185 psi at sea level. Could the 15psi diff is related to cam differences?
I might also wonder which dizzy- if it's a 015 then the vacuum retard at the throttle body is attached to the vacuum advance at the can.
Over all it looks nice though!
Over all it looks nice though!
I am on the fence, but obviously I would fly out and see the car myself. As I said I cannot get out there for a week, maybe more.
Your paint comment is right on. In addition to differing expectations, I worry somewhat about a freshly painted car and whether problems have been hidden.
I appreciate the comments.
I'm thinking this is an m30b34?
get/borrow a electronic film thickness gauge
These things can find bondo were the paint is good enough to fool the eye.
I have an Elcometer for steel (and a ElektroPhysik meter for alloy panels). Wish I'd had one when i bought my Jag (front end accident, skillfully covered up, needs to be cut apart and fixed someday). The better meters have sensors that will do both materials. Good classic car dealers typically have these in their shops. If you do use one, remember that there are leaded joints on the E9 that'll show as having body filler.
Can't get there for a week?. Nice sellers will hold the car for you on a refundable deposit. Or, offer HBChris expenses...
These things can find bondo were the paint is good enough to fool the eye.
I have an Elcometer for steel (and a ElektroPhysik meter for alloy panels). Wish I'd had one when i bought my Jag (front end accident, skillfully covered up, needs to be cut apart and fixed someday). The better meters have sensors that will do both materials. Good classic car dealers typically have these in their shops. If you do use one, remember that there are leaded joints on the E9 that'll show as having body filler.
Can't get there for a week?. Nice sellers will hold the car for you on a refundable deposit. Or, offer HBChris expenses...
Steve Bernstein (garageboy.com) does not go to the bathroom without those sensor gadgets, maybe he measures the toilet seat for bondo and structural integrity. I could talk him into a week-end trip to Denver if you want to consider him. Steve knows rust from New England, New York, and his Germany stay...
Just once
All you need is to have bought a bondo beauty once and you'll be a convert to these little gadgets.
All you need is to have bought a bondo beauty once and you'll be a convert to these little gadgets.
There are a few screw ups in the description and a few screw ups in the engine bay - nothing to panic about. Ask for a real compression test or a review of the numbers.
That appears to be a euro 10:1 engine. Compression would be 80-90 psi higher than advertised.
I would have to say it is remarkable that the car is running a Motronic ECU and a Jetronic
Distributor.
Engine compression as follows:
Cyl. 1 – 115 psi
Cyl. 2 – 118 psi
Cyl. 3 – 120 psi
Cyl. 4 – 120 psi
Cyl. 5 – 118 psi
Cyl. 6 – 115 psi
The 130 injectors are Renault
The 71 degree t-stat is non stock and should be replaced
The AC idle compensation device is missing.
It would be a good idea to match the flow rates of the injectors- that ecu is not adaptive motronic because there is no 02 sensor on the euro engine.
I sure hope they exchanged the TPS for a non stock one for that harness- a euro engine has the TPS on the other side of the throttle body meaning the engine would get a wide open throttle signal at idle.
That appears to be a euro 10:1 engine. Compression would be 80-90 psi higher than advertised.
I would have to say it is remarkable that the car is running a Motronic ECU and a Jetronic
Distributor.
Engine compression as follows:
Cyl. 1 – 115 psi
Cyl. 2 – 118 psi
Cyl. 3 – 120 psi
Cyl. 4 – 120 psi
Cyl. 5 – 118 psi
Cyl. 6 – 115 psi
The 130 injectors are Renault
The 71 degree t-stat is non stock and should be replaced
The AC idle compensation device is missing.
It would be a good idea to match the flow rates of the injectors- that ecu is not adaptive motronic because there is no 02 sensor on the euro engine.
I sure hope they exchanged the TPS for a non stock one for that harness- a euro engine has the TPS on the other side of the throttle body meaning the engine would get a wide open throttle signal at idle.
Aussiecsi
Well-Known Member
There are a few screw ups in the description and a few screw ups in the engine bay - nothing to panic about. Ask for a real compression test or a review of the numbers.
That appears to be a euro 10:1 engine. Compression would be 80-90 psi higher than advertised.
I would have to say it is remarkable that the car is running a Motronic ECU and a Jetronic
Distributor.
Engine compression as follows:
Cyl. 1 – 115 psi
Cyl. 2 – 118 psi
Cyl. 3 – 120 psi
Cyl. 4 – 120 psi
Cyl. 5 – 118 psi
Cyl. 6 – 115 psi
The 130 injectors are Renault
The 71 degree t-stat is non stock and should be replaced
The AC idle compensation device is missing.
It would be a good idea to match the flow rates of the injectors- that ecu is not adaptive motronic because there is no 02 sensor on the euro engine.
I sure hope they exchanged the TPS for a non stock one for that harness- a euro engine has the TPS on the other side of the throttle body meaning the engine would get a wide open throttle signal at idle.
....Damn, i wish this Forum was in English instead of Americana
Aussiecsi
Well-Known Member
...just to clarify ,way over my head !
Some info....
The parts in the engine bay don't match up and the compression numbers don't make any sense.
The computer (ecu/electronic control unit) is a European model from 1982 or later called "Motronic"
The distributor is from before when the ecu came out and called "Jetronic"
The cam either came from a pre- 1982 engine or has been modified to work with the earlier Jetronic system.
Because the car has AC it should use an AC idle compensation solenoid- however it is missing.
There are 2 euro 735i engines from the 70's and 80's that could be in this car- neither would have anywhere close to 115 psi for compression.
The relays are iffy and so is the vacuum hose from ported throttle body to distributor.
The injectors are the wrong size for the ecu and are sourced from a renault
The parts in the engine bay don't match up and the compression numbers don't make any sense.
The computer (ecu/electronic control unit) is a European model from 1982 or later called "Motronic"
The distributor is from before when the ecu came out and called "Jetronic"
The cam either came from a pre- 1982 engine or has been modified to work with the earlier Jetronic system.
Because the car has AC it should use an AC idle compensation solenoid- however it is missing.
There are 2 euro 735i engines from the 70's and 80's that could be in this car- neither would have anywhere close to 115 psi for compression.
The relays are iffy and so is the vacuum hose from ported throttle body to distributor.
The injectors are the wrong size for the ecu and are sourced from a renault