Fuel Pump Leaking

RogerB

RogerB

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I noticed a puddle underneath my 72 CSL and determined it was coming from the back of the fuel pump. I replaced the supply hose hoping the leak was from there. Not! It appears to be from the end cap to the housing with two screws/bolts holding it in place.

What/where is the best deal on a replacement pump? Thanks! RB
 
Consider buying two, I keep one as a backup to keep under the spare tire in case it goes south at the wrong time.
 
I received one reply in regard to a good source for a fuel pump for my 72 csl, and that was for a mechanical pump. Since I have the stock fuel injection, that was not an option. Still looking for an original configuration pump. RB
 
Hi Rodger,

The original pumps are NLA, Mine kacked out last year as well, it was leaking out of the electrical plug on the side.
Sorry to say I cant remember what model pump I bought, but it was a Bosch.
It is smaller in diameter than the original, so you have to wrap a thick bit of rubber around it to make it work in the original bracket.

just found this link

http://www.automotive-tradition.de/en/teile/media/Produkt_Profil_EKP_0580464032_en.pdf


Good luck
 
John S said:
You might try contacting the guys at Mesa Performance

http://www.mesaperformance.com/

I've heard that they can rebuilt the original fuel pumps and might have a rebuilt one available.
Click to expand...

I called Mesa, and they said they were having them rebuilt in No. CA; but they had to return the last three in a row. The company he mentioned, has them on ebay for less than what they were charging Mesa, but I am hesitant to order one.

The price is reasonable at $249 plus shipping both ways ($30 +-) minus $100 refund when the core is returned. Well worth around $180 IF it works?!!? The do offer an 18 month warranty though.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/301036257184?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649#shpCntId
 
I think FIC is the company where SFDon gets his injectors rebuilt, he could possibly vouch for them. $149 after core return with 18mo guarantee for a rebuilt Bosch sounds pretty good to me.
 
Look at the fuel pump pictures and text on this post:
http://www.e9coupe.com/forum/showthread.php?p=96833&highlight=pump#post96833

If this is the pump you have it's likely leaking from the can/top junction. There's an o-ring there which can be replaced as I did and that will fix the leak. You have to be thoughtful about replacing the positioning of the pump and its llittle small cylinders as shown on the post or they will bind.
 
Luis A. said:
Look at the fuel pump pictures and text on this post:
http://www.e9coupe.com/forum/showthread.php?p=96833&highlight=pump#post96833

If this is the pump you have it's likely leaking from the can/top junction. There's an o-ring there which can be replaced as I did and that will fix the leak. You have to be thoughtful about replacing the positioning of the pump and its llittle small cylinders as shown on the post or they will bind.
Click to expand...

Thanks Luis! That certainly looks like it is worth a try! What was the source of your O-rings?
 
Roger,

I got the o-rings a the o-ring store online: www.theoringstore.com They will get just about any o-ring but if they don't have it in stock, and they won't tell you unless you ask, it will take 10-14 days for them to get it to you. At least that's what's happened to me twice.

You can see the o-ring that leaks on the picture below. The replacement size in the next picture and the area the ring seals on the can is the last picture.

P1070762.JPG


P1070771.JPG


P1070786.JPG


It is was tricky to adjust the impeller with its cylinders correctly. If wrong, the pumping action will range from little or no output to binding and the motor not turning. It's not just the rotational position of the piece within which the impeller/cylinders sit, but also the position of that piece in the x and y axes, if that makes sense. It needs to align correctly with the input and outputs. I tested it with water and it took me several tries. Then I removed the can to thoroughly blow dry the inside and also blew the impeller assembly but without disassembling it or you will throw off its position you just adjusted.

Finally I tested it with water to check that it could build pressure to spec by placing it in a circuit with a pressure regulator and as you can see in the video it was right at spec.

http://vimeo.com/84829182
 
Luis A. said:
Roger,

I got the o-rings a the o-ring store online: www.theoringstore.com They will get just about any o-ring but if they don't have it in stock, and they won't tell you unless you ask, it will take 10-14 days for them to get it to you. At least that's what's happened to me twice.

You can see the o-ring that leaks on the picture below. The replacement size in the next picture and the area the ring seals on the can is the last picture.

P1070762.JPG


P1070771.JPG




P1070786.JPG


It is was tricky to adjust the impeller with its cylinders correctly. If wrong, the pumping action will range from little or no output to binding and the motor not turning. It's not just the rotational position of the piece within which the impeller/cylinders sit, but also the position of that piece in the x and y axes, if that makes sense. It needs to align correctly with the input and outputs. I tested it with water and it took me several tries. Then I removed the can to thoroughly blow dry the inside and also blew the impeller assembly but without disassembling it or you will throw off its position you just adjusted.

Finally I tested it with water to check that it could build pressure to spec by placing it in a circuit with a pressure regulator and as you can see in the video it was right at spec.

http://vimeo.com/84829182
Click to expand...

Luis:

That is great information! I hope I have the patience and expertise to do this! {;>)

Thanks and be safe,

Roger
 
Need help here. I have replaced the O-rings on two of the original fuel pumps as described above. However, I don't trust them that much and have not tried them yet.
I just don't want to get too far from home and have one let me down. {:<(

So, I bought a new Bosch 69412 (0 550 464 013) to use instead. My questions:

1. Is the large terminal positive (+) and the small terminal negative (-)?

2. The 3.0 Shop Manual shows a small cone shaped filter inserted on the inlet of the old roller cell pump. Would this be what I need on this new pump, and if so, is it still available? Or, should I just install a "can" type fuel filter in the line between the tank and the pump?
I did this on my 911 after I ruined a new Bosch pump of the same design there. These pumps are very sensitive to the smallest amount of trash obviously??! Not pretty, but effective.

Thanks for any help from those of you that have probably already done this on your csi/csls or are knowledgeable of this fuel pump conversion! Be safe, RB
 
RogerB said:
Need help here. I have replaced the O-rings on two of the original fuel pumps as described above. However, I don't trust them that much and have not tried them yet.
I just don't want to get too far from home and have one let me down. {:<(

So, I bought a new Bosch 69412 (0 550 464 013) to use instead. My questions:

1. Is the large terminal positive (+) and the small terminal negative (-)?

2. The 3.0 Shop Manual shows a small cone shaped filter inserted on the inlet of the old roller cell pump. Would this be what I need on this new pump, and if so, is it still available? Or, should I just install a "can" type fuel filter in the line between the tank and the pump?
I did this on my 911 after I ruined a new Bosch pump of the same design there. These pumps are very sensitive to the smallest amount of trash obviously??! Not pretty, but effective.

Thanks for any help from those of you that have probably already done this on your csi/csls or are knowledgeable of this fuel pump conversion! Be safe, RB
Click to expand...

Never mind on question #1. I held the pump in better light and see the + on the small and the - on the large. The opposite of what I was guessing! {:>)
 
Which o-rings did you replace? You only need to replace one, the one around the circumference of the outer can which seals against the inner pump/rotor assembly.

The inlet strainer has been NLA for a while. The tank pickup strainer in my tank was in good shape and clean so I didn't worry about it. I don't know if a large can filter in the suction side would affect function. I would look for a suitable strainer.

There is a thread on the 2002 FAQ board right now on about the same filter since the Tii's used the same pump as CSi's and E3 Si's. It's titled "Tii electric pump - filter"
 
I have an electric fuel pump and I have a basic inline filter between it and the tank. Definitely want to keep the pump from any contaminants getting to it.

IMG-20120602-00475.jpg



RogerB said:
Need help here. I have replaced the O-rings on two of the original fuel pumps as described above. However, I don't trust them that much and have not tried them yet.
I just don't want to get too far from home and have one let me down. {:<(

So, I bought a new Bosch 69412 (0 550 464 013) to use instead. My questions:

1. Is the large terminal positive (+) and the small terminal negative (-)?

2. The 3.0 Shop Manual shows a small cone shaped filter inserted on the inlet of the old roller cell pump. Would this be what I need on this new pump, and if so, is it still available? Or, should I just install a "can" type fuel filter in the line between the tank and the pump?
I did this on my 911 after I ruined a new Bosch pump of the same design there. These pumps are very sensitive to the smallest amount of trash obviously??! Not pretty, but effective.

Thanks for any help from those of you that have probably already done this on your csi/csls or are knowledgeable of this fuel pump conversion! Be safe, RB
Click to expand...
 
Luis A. said:
Which o-rings did you replace? You only need to replace one, the one around the circumference of the outer can which seals against the inner pump/rotor assembly.

The inlet strainer has been NLA for a while. The tank pickup strainer in my tank was in good shape and clean so I didn't worry about it. I don't know if a large can filter in the suction side would affect function. I would look for a suitable strainer.

There is a thread on the 2002 FAQ board right now on about the same filter since the Tii's used the same pump as CSi's and E3 Si's. It's titled "Tii electric pump - filter"
Click to expand...
The one that you referred to on each pump. I have two. After dissembling the first one, I found that I did not have to completely disassemble the pump: just remove the can. Apparently the suggested filter Steve shows is the answer.

That's a great site Luis! I had not been there since I sold my three tiis years ago! It still remembered me and my password though! {:>) Thanks! RB
 
Last edited:
Stevehose said:
I have an electric fuel pump and I have a basic inline filter between it and the tank. Definitely want to keep the pump from any contaminants getting to it.

IMG-20120602-00475.jpg
Click to expand...

Thanks Steve! I had not considered placing the filter in the trunk. That makes more sense for easier replacement! I think I can get this project out of the way now as soon as the ice and snow passing through the Atlanta area are gone. RB
 
Last edited:
Another fuel pump option

Here's another option for replacing the stock 3.0 csi fuel pump. The 2002tii uses the identical fuel pump and I know many folks who have successfully used the fuel pump from the later BMW 535i cars. BMW part number 16-14-1-179-232. Bosch Part number 0 580 464 048. These pumps can be found on ebay for about $150. Here's a website showing instructions for the conversion:

http://www.my2002tii.com/tii-fuel-pump_how-to.htm

Regards,
John
 
John S said:
Here's another option for replacing the stock 3.0 csi fuel pump. The 2002tii uses the identical fuel pump and I know many folks who have successfully used the fuel pump from the later BMW 535i cars. BMW part number 16-14-1-179-232. Bosch Part number 0 580 464 048. These pumps can be found on ebay for about $150. Here's a website showing instructions for the conversion:

http://www.my2002tii.com/tii-fuel-pump_how-to.htm

Regards,
John
Click to expand...

Thanks John! I just got around to reading this, and I just finished doing virtually the same thing to my csl this afternoon. I too did not want to cut the original connector wires, so I made two jumper wires with eye connectors to fit the terminals on the new pump and spade connectors on the other end to plug into the to stock plug. My new Bosch pump looks identical to the one shown only with different part #. It shows in the listing on Amazon that if fits almost everything up through 7-series. Best part was it cost me $110 delivered to my door! {:>) It runs and it is dry! Be safe. RB
 
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