While I'm in there...

CRJ Driver

CRJ Driver

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I have the 262 out for a new clutch. Rear crank & sump seals are shot, but tranny input & outputs are bone dry. Here's the question; should I open a nicely sealed transmission & replace the front/rear seals I've already on hand, or renew them anyway? Part two... If I do open tranny, front & rear shaft bearings are cheap. Redo those too? Part two poin five...slave cyl thoughts-clutch works fine, but circlp style slave cyl looks a little tired...OEM price = pissed wife. Do any of the cheapo eBay ones fit? They don't look like they do. New driveshaft carrier bearing/guibo/diff seal going in as well. Am I missing any other while I'm in there stuff? Clearly mission creep has reared her ugly head. TIA. Tom
 
IMHO:

Part 1: If they haven't been replaced I would do so, Murphy's law states that when you put it all back together it will start to leak.

Part 2: The bearings are cheap but the puller is not, do you have one of the special ones? That could get dicey real quick.

Part 2.5: You can rebuild these easily if the inner bore isn't all scratched up, or I have a good condish used you can have for $30 plus ship.

Etc: Do the shift selector rod seal. Careful on all seals not to scratch the aluminum when removing the old, especially the shift rod seal. Replace the speedo drive o-ring. Put thread sealer on front cover bolts and rear flange nut, and Hylomar or equivalent on the front cover and flange where it slides on the output shaft. Check the 4 tower bushings for play and replace those, like $4 each at RM European. New upper and lower cup for shift lever ball. New bushings for bottom end of shift lever to shift rod connection. Are you changing pilot and throwout bearings with clutch?


CRJ Driver said:
I have the 262 out for a new clutch. Rear crank & sump seals are shot, but tranny input & outputs are bone dry. Here's the question; should I open a nicely sealed transmission & replace the front/rear seals I've already on hand, or renew them anyway? Part two... If I do open tranny, front & rear shaft bearings are cheap. Redo those too? Part two poin five...slave cyl thoughts-clutch works fine, but circlp style slave cyl looks a little tired...OEM price = pissed wife. Do any of the cheapo eBay ones fit? They don't look like they do. New driveshaft carrier bearing/guibo/diff seal going in as well. Am I missing any other while I'm in there stuff? Clearly mission creep has reared her ugly head. TIA. Tom
Click to expand...
 
I'm with Steve regarding things that don't leak now will as soon as you put them back together.. Center support bearing & Guibo replace for sure. Would not bother with rear diff seal unless it is leaking bad. Rear U-joint can be expensive so hopefully there is no play there.
 
Damn you Murphy!

Agreed to everything. Was hoping someone might talk me out of opening the trans and letting the magic out. But it'd definitely be false economy-in Haynes Manual speak- not to just do trans seals. Speaking of vague manual lingo, I do have many suitable pullers for input/output shaft bearings...but was thinking more of taking bearings plus loose trans to a local shop & provide relevant blue book/ parts catalog pages. On the fence about this one. Diff not leaking bad, just a drip or two after some hot weather spirited driving. All other driveline perishables are new or serviceable and awaiting the flywheel's return. I've never had very good luck with rebuilding hyd cylinders in FJ40 Landcruisers or Vanagon Westys. OEM kits were ok, aftermarket ones, appalling. And this is with an acute OCD driven eye for bore honing and prep. A new, even aftermarket, slave or master always seemed to go the distance and maintain good pedal feel. But as with anything E9 related, my choices are limited. Thanks for the insight and tips... I had forgotten speedo cable o ring... Nice to have another set of eyes to have a look.
 
Hmmmm

Stevehose said:
I wouldnt mess with the diff either. A new seal in that requires some esoteric torque gizmo tool plus a lot of work.

If you really want to do all the seals on the tranny there is this one also:

http://www.e9coupe.com/forum/showthread.php?t=20603
Click to expand...

Is this the speedo o ring mentioned previously? Dealer only part I assume... Also which tower bushings were you referring to Steve? Where the shift tower connects to the tranny? Thanks.
 
Different parts, 16 and 17 are the shaft seal and o-ring, it shows the dimensions so you could probably get the oring elsewhere but it's not expensive. The shaft seal isn't cheap but that is something I wanted to make sure I had the correct fit on.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=3435-USA---E9-BMW-3.0CS&diagId=23_0806


The tower bushings are #17 here:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=3435-USA---E9-BMW-3.0CS&diagId=23_0813

Available here (and AZ Autohaus):

http://www.rmeuropean.com/Products/25111202842-MFG200.aspx






CRJ Driver said:
Is this the speedo o ring mentioned previously? Dealer only part I assume... Also which tower bushings were you referring to Steve? Where the shift tower connects to the tranny? Thanks.
Click to expand...
 
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