Who can identify this piece?

eriknetherlands

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, I did dig into this as well, as I was, and still am, plagued with an obsession for originality.

The W&N rear floor plans are much better compared to the front one.
I have noticed the following for the rears:
- rear floor pans have the larger rectanular depression, it is about 10 mm to short front to back.
- rear floor pans have the 3 beads running front to back, their distance to each other is 1 ~ 2 mm's off compared to the E9 floor to which it has to line up with.
- and ofcourse the twist lock cap is integrated and not a seperate part anymore, (but i don't mind, as i consider this an improvement. )

Regarding the Front floor from W&N, it is missing (see attached picture where it shows the W&N panel with modifications) :
- the 90 degree fold, where it connects to the inner sill
- the 5 depressions running front to back
- the curve at the front of the footwell, where it meets the firewall
- an 8-10 cm long bead, in the above curve, in the right front corner of the passenger footwell;
- the rectangular depression & opening above the frame rails
- the circular depression & opening above the frame rails
- and the -as per Original topic- circular feature that is above identified as allegedly a ground plate for an antenna to detect loads of BS....

The polish examples, , look better in replicating these details. I cannot comment on their exactness as i haven't seen nor measured them.
On one point they are also missing some details, and that is that at the rear floor, the beads dont run into the large depression. they stop just before the edge, and start again in the 10 mm lower plane. they should run continuesly. (see picture with the blue Pelny panel)
Big advantage is that with the Pelny panels, there is one less long weld to make and dress compared to the W&N panels where 2 have to be joined. For a body shop that is almost cost neutral.

Hope this is helpful,
Erik.
 

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Tony.dreamer

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the oval indentations are the access to the frame rails, seen here to the right in a line, these would not be visible from the underside:

DvVD1Xkk1qhFh012IDPWCkswZhFITRq8AL2h8-vDyZ5BfFcBDXMZjblFBxgbG2Sy0_w8EznVIdmOAjknPrRkv7_V_WlsQR7bu3G1QW3StaS7rBb7tCgBkxwn0XUoPc2K-NJ_5r-X3raPEdYuBTXkaiozySfTRbtiQSanoDPl4gPsRws3Zs9G5OEOZzste1medEOQ-lgIUK2b5XHl9EWugq3ItJ7ZzQX7HR_daisqVkkLGp57q8JQ9KNnEwyJcJ89HjGn4b1wkPuADmMCFpNEzH77PrB5hJwgmwPD4jvSc4RS3V_wBIPwbInc9A1kZc_UunY7uAcuQm65NxRoRUXHpQLL8j0nqRc9EUvR57WAG1lcPwcX2keFLxJRkaANbbYc3FhSNonGabI4dXQznflk2Yb_xKdy2BT-D7fnbHjr7uy5Njx28R5FNfO-5Cr9s8sfp3LKWVlkixUYVC2C8oUl15rXuseJGO5Hm4tLyhLGXd8YzZ1LMKPKhnAf89xaLMXmaooMfsojIGfEqtrCAxSM875cNDTAV40PmrrcdSn4as3j0w0qJdyue8B-YR_pujuzCu4oYiZRvhNzNHIIhTR5WZHJKXCYthu1XE9y4rFRk-NaWVUjP4d4=w579-h771-no
No wonder I never have seen them before. The only E9 I have ever removed the insulation from inside is the one I am restoring now which all of the floor pans were completely gone, with no evidence of the oval pieces that I can recall.....
I love it almost every time I come back to the forum I learn something new.... it makes it so much more fun. If we were all together in a bar, I would have bought a round !!!
Cheers!
 

Tony.dreamer

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, I did dig into this as well, as I was, and still am, plagued with an obsession for originality.

The W&N rear floor plans are much better compared to the front one.
I have noticed the following for the rears:
- rear floor pans have the larger rectanular depression, it is about 10 mm to short front to back.
- rear floor pans have the 3 beads running front to back, their distance to each other is 1 ~ 2 mm's off compared to the E9 floor to which is has to line up.
- and ofcourse the twist lock cap is integrated and not a seperate parrt anymore , (but i don't mind, as i consider this an improvement. )

Regarding the Front floor from W&N, it is missing (see attached picture where it shows the W&N panel with modifications) :
- the 90 degree fold, where it connects to the inner sill
- the 5 depressions running front to back
- the curve at the front of the footwell, where it meets the firewall
- an 8-10 cm long bead, in the above curve, in the right front corner of the passenger footwell;
- the rectangular depression & opening above the frame rails
- the circular depression & opening above the frame rails
- and the -as per Original topic- circular feature that is above identified as allegedly a ground plate for an antenna to detect loads of BS....

The polish examples, , look better in replicating these details. I cannot comment on their exactness as i haven't seen nor measured them.
On one point they are also missing some details, and that is that at the rear floor, the beads dont run into the large depression. they stop just before the edge, and start again in the 10 mm lower plane. they should run continuesly. (see picture with the blue Pelny panel)
Big advantage is that with the Pelny panels, there is one less long weld to make and dress compared to the W&N panels where 2 have to be joined. For a body shop that is almost cost neutral.

Hope this is helpful,
Erik.

Thanks Eric!
I appreciate the detailed description!
We found the rear pans from W&N very nice at first but you are absolutely right in that the beads are few millimeter off as the floor rolls up toward the back to meet up with the bead for the section under the rear seats. This issue is worse for the right side piece it seemed to us, or at least in our case ....
The picture above shows the slight difference. However we slit the center of the bead and then build up the weld around it and then ground it off and once dressed it up we could hardly see it...
By the way, Kyle , in the photo does all my sensitive welding. He is exceptional in his work.
 
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eriknetherlands

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OK Tony, you win the prize for the best tooling made! I just fabbed things with a simple router....

more pics from the underside (of your cars that is) please.... Looks like serious work going on; for instance your frame rails are Missing In Action....!
 

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Tony.dreamer

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OK Tony, you win the prize for the best tooling made! I just fabbed things with a simple router....

more pics from the underside (of your cars that is) please.... Looks like serious work going on; for instance your frame rails are Missing In Action....!
You noticed that ;) !!!! You should be very pleased to see what we did for the frame rails...
The one on the car could have been patched . But it would have taken several patches and we figured it will not be structurally right. So we cut it back as far as we felt there is solid steel. I will post a photo of how we build two rails since the used one available for sale were not much better.... and new ones not available any longer.
Let me look for the photos and I will post them..
 
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Peter Coomaraswamy

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Oh, this was a Roschach test for coupe aficionados?
In that case this is clearly card #1:

rorschach-ink-blot-test-card-1-answer.jpg

I see a female butterfly with the face of Jack-o-lantern wearing disheveled clothing leaning against a lamp-post at Hollywood & Vine.

-Oh, there's an e9 in the background
 

eriknetherlands

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Tony, that's quite the excercise, made it all new? Just needs two drain holes to finish it off.
I think i claimed the cleanest frame rails half a year ago, but I see that it now fully belongs in your garage!

Did you go for OEM thickness , or did you increase it ?
A bit thicker could help to avoid those bite marks left when lifting the car by the frame rails.
Erik.
 

autowerks

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When I get ready to do the rusty metal wheel arch parts on my car I will buy Tony's fabricated parts if he makes them
 

Tony.dreamer

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Tony, that's quite the excercise, made it all new? Just needs two drain holes to finish it off.
I think i claimed the cleanest frame rails half a year ago, but I see that it now fully belongs in your garage!

Did you go for OEM thickness , or did you increase it ?
A bit thicker could help to avoid those bite marks left when lifting the car by the frame rails.
Erik.
Erick, we did go slightly thicker. However we made sure at the the weld line connecting the old and new have very even thickness on the old part and flush weld it on the outside (exposed side so that we can grind it off even whereas we old and new fabricated pieces are not noticeable. It looked amazing. I have to get the car on a lift and take few pictures for you. Kyle, is an amazing welder. It is so much fun to watch him work on metal.
 

Tony.dreamer

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Let me try to put one of the videos...
When I get ready to do the rusty metal wheel arch parts on my car I will buy Tony's fabricated parts if he makes them
When I get ready to do the rusty metal wheel arch parts on my car I will buy Tony's fabricated parts if he makes them
:rolleyes: We will see how far I can go... joe you will get especial discount!!!
 

autowerks

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Thank you my friend, you probably have to do the work too since I do not have the equipment anymore!
 
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